2011 Gti IBR issue need some help/suggestions

[Jmonta32]

Just bought a 2011 Sea doo gti 155 limited, took it out the day i bought and could not get the reverse to do anything. would just sit basically in neutral even when giving a little throttle. Dashboard indicated I was in reverse. went through the IBR override function out of the water and noticed the bucket was not dropping far enough down. listened for any grinding but didn't hear anything. started pulling the whole reverse system out and this is what I discovered. the threaded part for the 2 bolts that go to the actuator had sheered and only one bolt remained. The Circled plastic support on the other side in diagram had also sheered and was in pieces.
Any suggestions? Can that piece on the actuator be replaced/repaired? or would I have to buy a whole new actuator?

 

[skiasylum]

Your probably going to need a whole new actuator with that much damage to the gear. The motors are fragile. Make sure you figure out what caused the damage to the gear. The gate needs to be overhauled and inspected for damage before anything else is fixed.

 

[Jmonta32]

From what I can tell, the motor is operating ok. As far as what caused it can be Anyone's guess. damage happened prior to my ownership. my best guess is that something hit it while being trailered. the gate itself appears to be in good shape. didn't see any cracks or bends in the trim ring nor the bucket itself. just a scuff mark on the bucket from where I think something hit it.

 

[ski-d00]

Your probably going to need a whole new actuator with that much damage to the gear.

That's not a gear. It is just a pivot point on the fixing plate.

If the motor is working fine, all you need to do is replace the LH and RH fixing plates and support plate and repair the actuator drive end where the bolt sheered. Should be simple to EZ out or just drill out the sheered bolt and add helicoils.

 

[John777]

You Need a new IBR. About $1,000 on Partzilla. There is a new part number because the IBR has been updated with a more robust design. You can Install yourself, but you will need BUDS software (dealer) to program the ski to recognize the new IBR module.

 

[ski-d00]

You Need a new IBR.

Why spend $1000 on a new ibr when it is working fine?

 

[John777]

It looks like the end is broken off where it attaches to the IBR gate.

 

[ski-d00]

It looks like the end is broken off where it attaches to the IBR gate.

As I explained above, that is the fixing plate and only a $40 part new.

 

[skiasylum]

A gear is a rotating circular machine part having cut teeth or, in the case of a cogwheel or gearwheel, inserted teeth, which mesh with another toothed part to transmit torque and speed. The basic principle behind the operation of gears is analogous to the basic principle of levers.Wikipedia

ski-doo, I should know better than to doubt your knowledge but are you sure the broken piece in the first picture is not the same piece on the actuator in the second picture. I have looked at images of the left fixing plate #268000111 and it has nothing that looks like the second picture. If you enlarge the first picture you can see it’s the same part from the actuator?

 

[ski-d00]

You are right. I should have looked closer.

The fixing plate is seen in the bottom of the first picture. The chewed up part is the actuator but this still can be repaired. It is just cast aluminum and can be tig welded which is what I would do to repair and then drill and repair the threaded holes. It can definitely be fixed for much less than the cost of a new ibr.

 

[Jmonta32]

You are right. I should have looked closer.

The fixing plate is seen in the bottom of the first picture. The chewed up part is the actuator but this still can be repaired. It is just cast aluminum and can be tig welded which is what I would do to repair and then drill and repair the threaded holes. It can definitely be fixed for much less than the cost of a new ibr.

You are right. I should have looked closer.

The fixing plate is seen in the bottom of the first picture. The chewed up part is the actuator but this still can be repaired. It is just cast aluminum and can be tig welded which is what I would do to repair and then drill and repair the threaded holes. It can definitely be fixed for much less than the cost of a new ibr.

Thanks everyone for the help. We have been coming up with and fabricating a mold to fit around that piece of the actuator and fill will epoxy or something. However I've been in contact with the dealership which I bought it from a couple weeks ago. They will be coming up with a fix for me, whether that be taking pieces from a bad actuator they have, or replacing the actuator. They will cover 90% of the price for a new actuator if it comes to that otherwise they wont charge me for the repair. The dealership owner agreed with me when I sent them photos that it was damage prior to my ownership and felt guilty his service guys didn't catch the damage prior.