2006 Islandia one engine not starting

[scubagreg]

I have a problem starting the right engine. The left engine starts right up.

It started out as an intermittent problem. It would start initially, but later not start while on the lake. It seemed to start when I tapped on the starter relay. I tried shorting across the two red leads. The engine turned over and started easily. I had already ordered a new (black) starter relay and believed that to be the issue.

I installed the new starter relay today. I hit the start push button and nothing happened. Left engine still turns over and starts. Right engine still does not. I shorted across the terminals on the right engine and it turns right over and starts. Could it be another bad relay? Doubt it, but can happen.

I checked every single fuse I could find. I noticed a little corrosion in the 30A fuse so I cleaned connector and added some electrical grease to ensure good connection. Double-checked connections.

I checked the starter switch with an ohm meter. It ohmed out a short when pressed and an open when not pressed.

I tried tracing the relay wires from the connector back, but I have no wiring diagram and don't really want to start cutting apart the wire bundles. Are there any hidden fuses or other components that connect inline between the push button switch on the console and with this starter relay?

Decided to check the wires coming into the top of the relay. I started with the left (good) engine. I disconnected the connector and connected a voltmeter between the two pins. It reads 0V without start button depressed. it reads about 12.5 V with it depressed. No surprise here. I then disconnected the connector on the relay connector on the left engine that does not start. It read about 0 V when disconnected, but was not stable. When the start switch was depressed, it read only .5 Vdc.

Decided I had better double-check the start switch. I swapped the two start switch connectors at the dash. The right switch started the left engine just fine. The left engine switch did not start the right engine switch. Same engine still does not start. So, that rules out the pushbutton switch.

Any other ideas? Please help. I have a 1 week trip that starts in a week. Need the boat!

 

[scubagreg]

I troubleshot it down to the neutral micro-switch. Word of warning. The switch assembly was $91 from the local sea doo dealer! The individual micro switch is only $5.60 from a electronics distributer.

Recommended troubleshooting technique:

1) Test the starter - You can do this by shorting across the starter relay solenoid with a well insulated screw driver (Two big red wires, one from the battery, other to the enginer starter). If the engine turns over, the starter is good.

2) Test the starter relay - Disconnect the top connector (mine was a connector with one brown and one purple wire) and test the voltage on each of the pins with a test light while a helper holds in the starter push button on the console. When pressed, one of the connector female pins should jump to aroung 12.5 VDC. A test light or voltmeter can be used. If you get 12.5 VDC on one of the pins with the push button pushed, then you have a bad starter relay. You can find it on Ebay from a power seller for around $25 or double that at the sea doo dealer.

3) Test the push button - TURN OFF THE BATTERY and/or remove the battery - terminal! Go behind the dash through where you access the fuses. Find the back of the questionable push button. Disconnect the connector. Check the continuity of the switch while it is pushed. Use an ohmmeter or diode check function of a multimeter and ensure the switch shorts when pushed (near 0 ohms) and opens when released (open circuit). If it does not do this, replace the push button switch.

4) Test the neutral micro-switch - TURN OFF THE BATTERY and/or remove the battery - terminal! Remove the cover of the controls (shifter assembly) and remove it. On the side of the assembly you will find the microswitch assembly held on by one small screw. Remove the switch assembly (DO NOT drop anything inside the hole, including the screw or parts from the switch assembly!) You will see two small micro switches held on by two pins. Carefully push out the pins to remove the switches. Use a test light or voltmeter to test that the switch closes (shorts, near 0 Ohms) when lightly pushed and opens (open circuit) when released.
***If you find one bad micro-switch, you can temporarily bypass the switch by shorting the two wires that are connected to the bad switch. DO NOT leave it this way. Order the micro switch and replace as soon as possible. Doing this bypasses a safety feature. If you short both switches, it allows the operator to start the motor(s) when the boat is not in neutral!
I found the micro switch at http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70159239