Your ski has synthetic grease in the nose cone, not oil.
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2005 gtx sc
- Thread starter Cpt Momo
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Cpt Momo
Active Member
I do want to change the oil on the cone first before putting it back on.
I was struggling earlier pushing the boot to the end of the jetski to take a look at the carbon seal. It desperate to remove the SC as of yet but it's still an option for later if all fails.
The allen screws ride plate? The one that's facing down below the pump? What about them? Not sure I follow about leaking coolant.
I was struggling earlier pushing the boot to the end of the jetski to take a look at the carbon seal. It desperate to remove the SC as of yet but it's still an option for later if all fails.
The allen screws ride plate? The one that's facing down below the pump? What about them? Not sure I follow about leaking coolant.
You don't have oil, you have synthetic grease in the nose cone...
Cpt Momo
Active Member
Really?
I guess I'm thinking of the gear oil i put in thr pumo of the two stroke 951 I have.
Is it even worth opening it up? The nose cone that is ...
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Cpt Momo
Active Member
The coolest is the neon green premix and it's probably the camera that makes it look like coolant leaked on them.
Yes,, open it up. If the nose cone seal and or the rear impeller seal fail, the bearings will rust. I did two write ups on changing the Grease. I'll post them in a moment..
Cpt Momo
Active Member
Thanks Joe for the links! Great write ups.
Oh boy what a week.
I ended up getting a carbon carrier and DS seal boot.
It was a little tough to get the the carbon seal off, so had to remove the SC and open up the exhaust because I wasn't able to just pull the Sc.
Attempted to release the carbon seal but it wasn't moving freely on the shafts. The entire shafts was moving so it was almost impossible to get the C lock. So it was probably stuck on the shafts.
With lots of WD40 and rubber hammer. The carbon seal was freed. Suprisingly, the carbon seal looked in a good condition (changed it anyways) so I'm thinking it was the boot cover that lost its elasticity and the rust on the shaft.
Pulled the shafts and it was extremely rusty and I had to sand the rust off so I don't end up getting the new carbon seal stuck again.
Now I know how to get the SC out to when I want to send it off for a rebuild.
Changed everything and should be ready for a swim tomorrow to test it out.
Oh boy what a week.
I ended up getting a carbon carrier and DS seal boot.
It was a little tough to get the the carbon seal off, so had to remove the SC and open up the exhaust because I wasn't able to just pull the Sc.
Attempted to release the carbon seal but it wasn't moving freely on the shafts. The entire shafts was moving so it was almost impossible to get the C lock. So it was probably stuck on the shafts.
With lots of WD40 and rubber hammer. The carbon seal was freed. Suprisingly, the carbon seal looked in a good condition (changed it anyways) so I'm thinking it was the boot cover that lost its elasticity and the rust on the shaft.
Pulled the shafts and it was extremely rusty and I had to sand the rust off so I don't end up getting the new carbon seal stuck again.
Now I know how to get the SC out to when I want to send it off for a rebuild.
Changed everything and should be ready for a swim tomorrow to test it out.
Cpt Momo
Active Member
Even though, i was not conviced but i went ahead and clhanged the wear ring and seal.
Took it for a swim and it still shows same symptom. Didn't test it with 2+ persons (it's way worst when soo) but I still get the burn out with full burst first 3 seconds then it picks up.
Word around ... the 2004 model year came with a smaller shafts and impeller (built for 155hp GTX) but the 185hp was too powerful for the jet pump. The later years, the pump/impeller/shafts was changed to bigger ones to accommodate the HP. Obviously I had two people tell me the same things. Anyone heard of that before? What else I could possibly have going on with my ski?
SOS
Took it for a swim and it still shows same symptom. Didn't test it with 2+ persons (it's way worst when soo) but I still get the burn out with full burst first 3 seconds then it picks up.
Word around ... the 2004 model year came with a smaller shafts and impeller (built for 155hp GTX) but the 185hp was too powerful for the jet pump. The later years, the pump/impeller/shafts was changed to bigger ones to accommodate the HP. Obviously I had two people tell me the same things. Anyone heard of that before? What else I could possibly have going on with my ski?
SOS
Cpt Momo
Active Member
So I have been Chasing a cavitation issue still
Changed the wear ring and the cavitation is still there
7600 RPM and then it drops to 7200 RPM
I order solas 12/20
Cavitation is gone but the max RPM was at 6900 RPM
I contacted solas directly before purchasing and they recommend the 12/20 for my ski
Now my ski is not even meeting OEM specs
Changed the wear ring and the cavitation is still there
7600 RPM and then it drops to 7200 RPM
I order solas 12/20
Cavitation is gone but the max RPM was at 6900 RPM
I contacted solas directly before purchasing and they recommend the 12/20 for my ski
Now my ski is not even meeting OEM specs
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
When you pull that driveshaft, you'll get a ton of oil pouring out, so do this during your oil change. There is a procedure to get most of the oil out of that compartment. I believe it's documented in the repair manual somewhere, but it's basically running the ski up to like 4k rpm and shutting it off suddenly. Bottom line, put rags underneath to catch oil that is 99% likely to spew out when you pull the driveshaft.
Replace the wear ring now that you have the pump off, and go OEM, if not stainless. I used SBT ring, and it was egged. Never gave me good hookup. I got OEM and instantly got great take-off, but I fear I already ruined it, as I'm having severe cavitation again. Might buy stainless ring here shortly.
Yours is a 2005, so I'm not sure you have an intercooler. If it's the 185hp model, then I'm sure you do not. If you do though, I'd consider upgrading to an aftermarket one. I hear the old OEM ones are prone to leaking. That means you get salt water directly in your intake. That will happen when there is high pressure in the cooling line (ie full throttle) and your engine will be completely destroyed. Only has to happen once
If yours is not intercooled, and rated at 185hp, then the max RPM should be about 7600. Otherwise, you have the 215hp model. The 185hp skis were a lot less prone to the exhaust valve failure, but it's not unheard of. I went ahead and replaced my valves with Supertech, but you will probably be okay. If you've got the 215hp though, I'd really consider pulling that head.
Be careful what oil you get, as a lot of the new oils have friction modifiers that are not compatible with the supercharger clutch washers. I use regular 10w-40 Castrol gtx. 200hr later, it's still running great.
As for rebuilding the SC, it's do-able yourself. I used the cheap e-Bay kit and it wasn't too bad. Hardest part is setting the clutch washer pressure (last step). This requires one of those old school torque wrenches with the point-dial, or a small digital one. I set mine with a high-end click-style, but I'm not sure it was accurate. Superchargers spin at around 40k rpm, so when the engine RPM changes suddenly, there should be some slip in the shaft so you don't snap it. Hence the clutch washers. Adjusting for that slip is the last step I'm referring to. Probably better to have less than too much The OEM kits all have metal washers as of 2011 or so.
Have fun
Replace the wear ring now that you have the pump off, and go OEM, if not stainless. I used SBT ring, and it was egged. Never gave me good hookup. I got OEM and instantly got great take-off, but I fear I already ruined it, as I'm having severe cavitation again. Might buy stainless ring here shortly.
Yours is a 2005, so I'm not sure you have an intercooler. If it's the 185hp model, then I'm sure you do not. If you do though, I'd consider upgrading to an aftermarket one. I hear the old OEM ones are prone to leaking. That means you get salt water directly in your intake. That will happen when there is high pressure in the cooling line (ie full throttle) and your engine will be completely destroyed. Only has to happen once
If yours is not intercooled, and rated at 185hp, then the max RPM should be about 7600. Otherwise, you have the 215hp model. The 185hp skis were a lot less prone to the exhaust valve failure, but it's not unheard of. I went ahead and replaced my valves with Supertech, but you will probably be okay. If you've got the 215hp though, I'd really consider pulling that head.
Be careful what oil you get, as a lot of the new oils have friction modifiers that are not compatible with the supercharger clutch washers. I use regular 10w-40 Castrol gtx. 200hr later, it's still running great.
As for rebuilding the SC, it's do-able yourself. I used the cheap e-Bay kit and it wasn't too bad. Hardest part is setting the clutch washer pressure (last step). This requires one of those old school torque wrenches with the point-dial, or a small digital one. I set mine with a high-end click-style, but I'm not sure it was accurate. Superchargers spin at around 40k rpm, so when the engine RPM changes suddenly, there should be some slip in the shaft so you don't snap it. Hence the clutch washers. Adjusting for that slip is the last step I'm referring to. Probably better to have less than too much
The OEM kits all have metal washers as of 2011 or so.Have fun
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