2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 Progress Post

JPass

Active Member
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Location
Orlando, FL
Water Crafts
2012 Challenger 210 SE
#26
Sorry misunderstood. The buckets with it disconnected are very easy to lift
Are you saying with the cable removed, the buckets were easy to move through their normal range of motion? If this is correct and you say it is still difficult to move the buckets with the new cable installed, then it's not the buckets or the cable. Have you checked the lever itself? Does it move freely with the cable disconnected from the buckets?
 


svtjoe98

New Member
Messages
25
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7
Location
FL
Water Crafts
2005 S200 310hp
#27
If you disconnect your cable, do the buckets raise up to the proper height?

Is your old cable hard to shift? Mine is, especially compared to my single engine Challenger. I am hoping it's just due to the fact that there are two buckets to flip, but I fear I'll have to do undergo the same thing you're about to and swap it out for a new one. Curious to hear how the new cable goes.
I had the same issue. I disconnected the cable from the buckets and noticed that they were hard to move. I was able to slightly loosen the bolts that attach the buckets to the boat.. it’s as good as new now. That’s a good way to see if it’s your cable making them stick or if the buckets are sticking.
 

IDoSeaDoo

Well-Known Member
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Location
Davie, Florida
Water Crafts
1995 Sea Doo XP800 (future project)
2009 Yamaha FX HO
1997 Seadoo Challenger 4tec
#28
Took my speedster out for its maiden voyage yesterday and could hardly shift it was downright dangerous. Turned Out that someone used the wrong bolts. They were too short, and ended up pressing each hinge point together, causing excessive friction. My solution was to screw in a small stainless steel bolt into the other side to act as a back stop, and then I screwed the other bolt in till it stopped against the bold on the other side. This allowed free movement of the buckets, and the shifter now is much smoother. I feel like if I would have kept operating in the way it was, it would have definitely broken the cable.
 
Messages
30
Likes
2
Location
Washington
Water Crafts
2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 310HP
#29
Took my speedster out for its maiden voyage yesterday and could hardly shift it was downright dangerous. Turned Out that someone used the wrong bolts. They were too short, and ended up pressing each hinge point together, causing excessive friction. My solution was to screw in a small stainless steel bolt into the other side to act as a back stop, and then I screwed the other bolt in till it stopped against the bold on the other side. This allowed free movement of the buckets, and the shifter now is much smoother. I feel like if I would have kept operating in the way it was, it would have definitely broken the cable.
That’s good that you got it figured out! Yeah some things people do are just plain weird. That’s why I’d recommend getting it back to OEM parts if you can
 

IDoSeaDoo

Well-Known Member
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Location
Davie, Florida
Water Crafts
1995 Sea Doo XP800 (future project)
2009 Yamaha FX HO
1997 Seadoo Challenger 4tec
#30
I think they cut new threads with the Imperial Thread bolts they used. I'm just going to leave them like they are, they're not going anywhere. The system works well now, best to just leave it be. Besides, I have bigger issues, like one of my engines stalling intermittently. Can make a guy pretty nervous 4mi out at sea.
 

RFoster130

Premium Member
Premium Member
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Location
Northern KY
Water Crafts
2012 Challenger SE 230. 510HP

Formerly
2004 Speedster 200 310HP
1998 Speedster 220HP
#31
Nice boat. I am currently in a 2012 Challenger 230, but previously had a 2004 Speedster 200. I had to do a ot of work to it, so i totally feel your pain. The Monster Tower looks great, much better than the OEM tower. I replaced all the outside graphics on mine. I found a few online left over from sea doo, but remade some of the others and liked them more than the oem. If you search here you can probably find the pics. You could probably order the same decals. I would bet the shop that did em has the file still. I ordered them online from a place in Michigan.
 
Messages
30
Likes
2
Location
Washington
Water Crafts
2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 310HP
#32
Some progress updates on the boat. So the reverse cable is working great now no issues so far, had to do some fine tuning but it locks into place now. I think I’m still going to replace parts at the lever on the bucket just to tighten things up a bit more. Took off the decals on the side (still have quite a bit more to take off) but going to have them remade. Buffer and tried to get some of the color back but I think I will still have to take an orbital sander and very fine grit to get rid of the sun wash. Pics look a lot better though! I also wired the amp, and tower speakers, haven’t had a chance to run it through the tower because I will have to drill a hole but they sound amazing! Taking it out today, can’t wait to get out there.
 
Messages
30
Likes
2
Location
Washington
Water Crafts
2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 310HP
#34
I placed the amp behind the starboard side seat, fits nicely there. Going to replace the factory 6.5 below the driver/passenger seat with an 8 or maybe a speaker that has a bit more bass, any recommendations? I don’t want to go as large as a 10
 

gb387

Active Member
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55
Location
Iowa
#35
As for the discoloration in the gelcoat I would suggest something like Meguiars M4965 Marine/RV Fiberglass Restoration System it's an all in one kit. Ues a rotary buffer and wool buffing pad for the first step and foam for the other two. I don't think I would goto sanding but that's just me...
 

gb387

Active Member
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Location
Iowa
#36
Keep in mind an orbital polisher won't have the power or movement needed to remove oxidation efficiently.
 
Messages
30
Likes
2
Location
Washington
Water Crafts
2004 Seadoo Speedster 200 310HP
#37
Keep in mind an orbital polisher won't have the power or movement needed to remove oxidation efficiently.
Okay, do you think the buffer I have on the wheel well in the second picture will do? I also have some scratches on the side of the fell coat. They don’t appear to be super deep but what would you recommend for those?
 

gb387

Active Member
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Location
Iowa
#38
That's an orbital buffer and has very little ability to do any finish corrections, that particular style is for applying wax or very minor corrections.

If you sand the gelcoat you will still need to use a rotary buffer to 'correct the finish' and bring back the shine, sanding will remove the oxidation and scratches but you will still need to use the Meguiars kit or something similar to bring back the shine and remove the fine scratches from sanding. Your better off starting with correcting with a buffer first before the more drastic step of sanding.
 

JPass

Active Member
Messages
997
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89
Location
Orlando, FL
Water Crafts
2012 Challenger 210 SE
#39
Okay, do you think the buffer I have on the wheel well in the second picture will do? I also have some scratches on the side of the fell coat. They don’t appear to be super deep but what would you recommend for those?
Most guys would use a high speed polisher with some aggressive compound to remove the oxidation, then use a variable speed orbital polisher to bring back the shine.

The scratches in your pics would require some wet sanding 1st, then polishing and wax.

Gelcoat Restoration

Keep in mind the coarseness and products used can differ from this video, but the technique is what you need to pay attention to.
 

OG1

Member
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5
Location
Oregon
#41
i wouldnt mount your amplifier in that location, it gets pretty hot in there on my boat and kind of balmy/humid too. I mounted all three of my amps in front of the drivers controls forward of the cooler bucket thing.
 

gacekj

Premium Member
Premium Member
Messages
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Location
Elkhart, IN
#43
Correct -- rotary, not an orbital -- but provides the high speed needed for getting those light scratches out of the gel coat and bringing back the luster/shine from the damage of oxidation.
 

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