2004 GTX Limited 185Hp Shuts down when cold repeatedly with "oil" alarm.

[jigowattsdiesel]

Hi, this is my first post. This is my wife's ski and it started doing this last year. At first it would just shut down only once right from the boat launch when cold after revving up over 3400 rpm's. Now it has gotten much worse. She has to let it idle for about 15 minutes before it will get above 3400 rpm's and run without shutting off. She keeps trying to give is some throttle and it just shuts down with the loud alarm. So she uplugs the key, re installs the key and restarts. The "oil" message shows briefly in the dash while the loud alarm is sounding. She said she saw the maintenance light flashing in groups which I instantly knew was a code. She got it to do it again but didn't count right. I got on the ski and the code would not re-appear or even do it after the alarm. (of course).A couple weeks ago I bought a slightly used <Sea Doo 04 2004 GTX RXT RXP 4-Tec oil separator housing pressure switch shut off> from eBay and put that on the ski last week thinking the oil pressure switch and the shut off valve would hopefully cure this problem. It did not. It has 96 hours on it and I do all the oil changes every year (Castrol GTX 10-40 not synthetic) and K&N filter. I changed the o rings on the filter housing this spring also. Last year I rebuilt the Supercharger myself with the upgraded washers. The other problem is that it sometimes idles really rough and sounds like crap even up to about 3000-4000-rpm's. Then sometimes it runs absolutely perfect. Now, our last outing on the lake, it lacked power, just like a SC that wasn't working. It would only go 40 mph @ about 5500 rpm's. Then I got on it to ride and see what I could. And it did the same thing. So I stopped, pulled the key and scratched my head. When I restarted to begin the trip home to the boat launch, it ran perfectly again. Now at home, I pulled the SC rubber intake hose and could turn the SC with my fingers just barely (with engine off). So I believe the SC is fine. I checked the plugs and they are perfectly uniform and very clean. Gremlins got my wife buggin'! Please help me :willy_nilly:

 

[door54]

Your symptoms description indicate improper oil. Now I've been a Castrol guy for years... in all my vehicles, with no exceptions. The problem with automotive oils is they have friction modifiers in their chemistry that are not compatible with our sc's....it causes them to slip among other issues. Not a healthy diet.

BRP's oem oil is stupid expensive, so I recomend draining your oil and replacing it with Castrol or Valvolines's 4 STROKE MOTORCYCLE OIL. That stuff is engineered for the smaller, higher reving 4 stroke motors. Even if this is not the root of your core problem, you will have the right stuff in your engine for the least amount of money spent before you continue on trouble shooting.

Check out this link http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9040439&contentId=7040925.

I had a 'back and forth' with one of the site gurus named red2blue recently on this very subject (VERY knowledgeable guy) but I can't recall the thread title. He explained the oil thing quite clearly...you may want to send him a PM...definately a guy you want in your corner

Motorcycle oil is available in just about any auto parts place you go to, and it goes for about $6/qt

Red you out there??

PS: I hate Gremlins...'specially the ones trying to earn some stripes

 

[dbdave]

Start with changing the plugs. You can't tell by looking at them if one isn't firing properly. The only way to be sure is to put brand new plugs in it and run it. I'll bet it works.

 

[door54]

Yep...what he said...and the oil

 

[Dennis]

Yes, install the spark plugs. Hit the "SET" button on the left handlebar 5 times while the alarm is sounding. A code (P-????) will appear on the gauge. Report back with the code.

 

[jigowattsdiesel]

Ty, My local dealer recommended the oil. He claimed to pull the BrP label off the bulk ontainer to find it was Castrol GTX. Also I am finding in other threads there is a rear oil sensor. Does it look identical to the front 1? And where is it exactly? I would like to change it out also. I am going to change the plugs tonight and try to get an oil code today. I know the code is imperative to have. You guys are great thank you very much

 

[jigowattsdiesel]

I just started the ski with the water hose hooked up in the driveway and got the oil alarm to come on immediately by trying to rev over 3400 rpm's. So then while the alarm is sounding, I hit the "set" button five times and no codes came up. It would just stop alarming briefly enough to flash the message "end", then go back to loud alarm. I tried many times, trying different things like the mode button, and both buttons, and holding them, etc. no codes. Just the loud alarm with the maintenance light flashing and "limp" mode engaged until key pulled and then re-started. I then changed the oil to the Castrol 4T motorcycle oil 10-40 and installed new sparkplugs also. That did nothing different either. Still alarming in the driveway over 3400 RPM's :banghead: I am really bummed out.

 

[jigowattsdiesel]

Ski still doing the alarm thing today only for first 5 minutes of warm up from boat launch, then it ran perfectly fine all afternoon. The sparkplugs did make a difference. Now to tackle the oil alarm. Still unable to bring up any codes. I guess I need to bring it into the dealer, unless anyone else knows where the rear oil sensor is. I would like to change it out first. I have read there are two oil sensors in other threads here, just not sure if they are identical sensors or different looking. I think this would be a logical step to try before a dealer visit. Anyone know the location of a rear oil sensor or how I might find a diagram of where to find it?

 

[Dennis]

The rear oil sensor is towards the rear of the engine, down low, on the right hand side. I remove the throttle body to access it.

It does not look the same as the front sensor. It has a blue wire going to it. :cheers:

 

[jigowattsdiesel]

Thank you Dennis! I am going to change that one out and see if this cures it. ( Here's hoping! I will give an update if this works or what I found out if it didn't and end up letting the dealer troubleshoot it.

 

[Dennis]

SeaDoo had a problem with both switches and came out with updated replacements. There is a possibility that the front switch you bought on ebay may still be the old style and therefore still giving you problems. If replacing the rear switch doesn't fix the problem then remove the front switch and check the part no.

 

[jigowattsdiesel]

That is interesting Dennis. I did happen to notice both part numbers were identical I will bet I need to swap them both out with new ones. I appreciate your time and help Dennis thank you.

 

[BMANN06]

I hate these oil pressure issues ... they can be such a pain to diagnose.

Here's what I've discovered through my headaches of the dealing with this problem.

If your in limp mode and ski won't got past 2500-3500rpm then its (low oil pressure condition) the rear oil pressure switch, or the regulator is stuck open, or main oil pump (one in magneto housing) is shot (oil pump is least likely).

If you have an oil light on and can't get past 5000rpm then you have a high oil pressure condition and its likely the front oil pressure switch.

 

[wrench2ride]

if the oil pressure is not getting high enough it will put the system in limp mode, if you have replaced the pressure switch and you are still having the problem you need to verify oil pressure, you may have an issue with one of the oil pumps or the pressure regulator, I have seen more issues with the regulator sticking than issues with oil pumps, once the regulator gets some wear on it, it will have a tendency to stick open, there is another spring that they have added to the pressure regulator that can be added to help in this situation, but I would replace the regulating valves (there are two parts to the regulator besides the springs) while you are in there as you have to pull the timing drive cover off to get at the regulator on the bottom of the timing drive cover.