2003 GTX SC not starting

[micropterus]

Battery is fresh off the charger. No beeps or anything with the key. RPM and MPH needles are pegged all the way around and won't move. I know the battery has power, but Seadoo won't make any noise at all. No beeps, hums, clicking, nothing. None of the lights on the dash will light up either. Any ideas? What comes first after the battery? Thanks.

 

[KK40384]

Next thing I'd guess is a bad post or something is not making contact on your lanyard.

 

[micropterus]

Thanks, I'll check that out when I get home.
Any idea why the speedo/rpm needles would be pegged at maximum and not returning to being "bottomed out"?

 

[BMANN06]

Did you boost your battery? As in jump start?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Are the cables on correctly???

To see if you do have a good battery, jump the starter solenoid. If it cranks well, then you have a good battery and it is connected well.

If it doesn't crank, seething is wrong. Trashed battery, cables on wrong, poor connection, blown fuses,,,,

 

[micropterus]

Did you boost your battery? As in jump start?

Trickle charged.

 

[micropterus]

Are the cables on correctly???

To see if you do have a good battery, jump the starter solenoid. If it cranks well, then you have a good battery and it is connected well.

If it doesn't crank, seething is wrong. Trashed battery, cables on wrong, poor connection, blown fuses,,,,

You lost me at "jump the solenoid. I don't know how to do that, or even what it means really. . .

ETA: And I'm sure the cable are on correctly. I didn't think to check fuses though.

 

[Coastiejoe]

When you press the start button it sends power to the starter solenoid, it closes the terminals at the solenoid and sends power to the starter.

Find your starter and follow the red wire back. It will be going to the solenoid. On the solenoid you will see two LARGE terminals. If you jump the terminals with something metal such as a screwdriver, the engine will crank. It won't start if you don't have the key on the DESS but it should crank. If it does. Your battery, cables, connections and starter are good. If no cranking, then you have more work to do.

Again, are you certain the cables are correct on the battery???

 

[micropterus]

Yes, I'm sure the cables are on correctly. The way my battery sits in the hull, there is only one way to position it so that the cables will reach. I've double check black/negative (-) and red/positive (+) multiple times. I still don't really understand why I can't even get the dash to light up or beep at all.

 

[micropterus]

Ok, there has been some development. Last night I had a few minutes so I got back into the hull and tinkered around a little. I looked at the fuses, double checked connections and everything seemed pretty much the way I left it. Popped the key on the post and got two beeps. Needles returned to normal. I hit the start button and just got a clicking noise. Sounded very similar to trying to start a car with a dead battery. Now I'm thinking that maybe my battery might actually be trashed. I have no idea how old it is, but I'm tempted to say the battery is from 2008. So I'm going to try and snag a new battery today and see what happens.

 

[KK40384]

Most likely a bad battery then. I bet even though it may read the correct voltage, once you load it up (by cranking or trying to) it will drop way low.

 

[micropterus]

Most likely a bad battery then. I bet even though it may read the correct voltage, once you load it up (by cranking or trying to) it will drop way low.

I'm guessing the same thing. Will a battery from autozone suffice, or do I need something more specific?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Battery or connection most likely.

 

[KK40384]

I'm guessing the same thing. Will a battery from autozone suffice, or do I need something more specific?

Will it suffice? Yea. A better option is the Deka gel filled sealed battery. Pricier but a lot better. I have one and I'm glad I spent the money.

 

[micropterus]

Ok, new development: I got a new AGM battery installed, but I've determined I must have some kind of electrical issue, may e a short. Now please excuse the lack of appropriate terminology-- When standing on the starboard side and looking at the fuse panel, there are two vertically aligned "plug ins" immediately to the left of the fuse panel. The one on top has 4 red wires going in, then a fuse, and then two red wires going out. I removed the black plastic housing that secured them to some metal brackets to hold them in place. When I move the two fuse end wires around, I will either have power or no power depending on how I position them. I did get it to start, then wiggled the two sets of wires and it killed all power. Make sense? Haha.

 

[micropterus]

Bump. Pics added to go with my horrible description of issue.

 

[micropterus]

Found this. Much better pic. The parts in question are shown as #2 and said to be the "main fuses".
Apparently wiggling them right or wrong makes all the difference as to wether or not it will start. Wiggling them while the motor is running will cause the engine to cut off.



Crap, that turned out way to tiny to see. . .

It came from a link to a PDS of the 03 GTX 4-Tec user guide for some reason, will not let me link to it. Comes up with a bunch of xxxs in the web address.
I guess if you wanted to Google "2003 GTX 4-Tec User Guide", dowload the PDF and look at page 80. It shows exactly what I'm talking about.

Trying again:

 

[Coastiejoe]

Anytime you can wiggle seeing and make a change, you are for sure on the right path.

I would pull it all apart as I am certain you will find a pin issue, connection issue, or corrosion on the back side. If there are bolted wires on the back side, unbolt them and clean all the connection very well. Our it all back together and coat with dielectric grease.

 

[micropterus]

I think I found the problem!! In one of those main fuses, I found a bad fuse. It's not blown, but it's definitely messed up. After changing it out for a new one, I cannot get the ski to die by wiggling the cables anymore. That tells me this was the problem. After changing the fuse, I can't recreate the issue I was having before. Here are some pics of the fuse. Anybody have any ideas what could cause a fuse to do this?

 

[KK40384]

That looks like a blown fuse to me from those pics. I've seen them more deformed before.

 

[Coastiejoe]

It is blown just not in the traditional manner.

 

[bell99man]

It definitely overheated. Might want to keep an eye on that.

How do you like your 03 model? I see one listed near me for around $3200 and was thinking of checking it out. It claims to have 123 hrs on it. I know I will need to check on the exhaust valves and the supercharger washers. But, other than that, is it a pretty descent jetski?

 

[micropterus]

I like mine. First PWC that Ive owned too. I paid $3,500 for mine with approx. 70 hrs on it. I'm a little over 100hrs now and haven't had any problems I couldn't fix myself. I would not stress about the SC washers. The 2003 does not have ceramic washers. They are metal, bu. they also aren't the "good" metal ones. I have not had to rebuild the SC yet either. It doesn't slip and I still get full rpms.

Word of caution: expect some cavitation if you hammer the throttle from a stop. Especially when pulling. The plasti pump housing is the problem. Solution is swapping it out for an aluminum pump (I still have the plastic one on mine). I'm definitely happy with mine. It's fast and stable which is nice.

 

[bell99man]

Have you gotten to ride any other models for comparison? Can you breaks the 60mph barrier with that one? My 2 stroke GTI is pretty wimpy with extra riders and can't clear 50 with me. It's ok for my girls solo but we wanted to tube with it and I weigh it down too much. I'm sure the GTX sc will have no trouble with that.

 

[micropterus]

The gtx does great pulling a tube. Skiers are a little harder to get out of the hole.

I have not ridden anything else recently enough to compare, but this one is plenty fast and stable for me. According to the speedometer, I can reach 62-63mph no problem.