2002 GTX 4tec Drive shaft

[Seadooguy10]

Hey all,

In the middle of working on replacing the drive shaft on a 2002 GTX 4tec and was wondering what years/model used replacements would work? I was looking at this one...http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-04-SEA..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item58b1878fec&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the help!

 

[68 super olympique]

Hey just wondering why you are changing it ?

 

[Seadooguy10]

I was trying to replace the carbon seal but it was so rusted I couldn't slide the metal piece that keeps the C clip in place.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I was trying to replace the carbon seal but it was so rusted I couldn't slide the metal piece that keeps the C clip in place.

I would have sliced the collar off and then cleaned up the shaft...

 

[Seadooguy10]

I did that but cut into the shaft as well. This thing was super rusted though. I don't know if there was any saving it.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I did that but cut into the shaft as well. This thing was super rusted though. I don't know if there was any saving it.

A slice in the shaft in theory will not harm anything.. As long as the collar can but put back on properly and the collars mates up with the seal properly, the slice means nothing..

 

[Seadooguy10]

How would you clean it though? Sand blast it?

 

[Coastiejoe]

How would you clean it though? Sand blast it?

Yes, or wire brush on a drill. It is one of those weird items that the cosmetics of it mean very little. The Carbon Seal does not sit on the shaft, it floats around it. The collar needs to be able to slide but it does not actually create a seal. The "C-Clip" will still ride in the groove (replaces the "O-ring" style retainer). I would clean it up big time and paint it to further protect it.

 

[Seadooguy10]

So what actually creates the seal so no water gets in? I thought it was the carbon seal that did that?

 

[Coastiejoe]

It is the carbon seal, but it is the carbon seal and the rubber boot that are the actual seal. And in both cases, they literally float around the drive shaft. Neither of the ride on the shaft itself.

 

[Seadooguy10]

Alright, I have since last posting bead blasted and wire wheeled the shaft.....here are a few pics. Still think I can use it? Looks a little rough to me.

 

[Coastiejoe]

It is rough for sure. The important parts look good though. I truly believe it is good to go as far as using it. I would coat the shaft with a Rustoleum type paint. From what i can see of the important parts, they are nice and smooth and not pitted.

 

[Seadooguy10]

Okay, what are the important parts you are talking about? Paint wise, do you mean like a clear coat?

 

[Coastiejoe]

The ends and where the O-rings are, are important. They slide into things. So the splines and the fit at those points are important. The pitted area just needs to be structurally strong in regards to torque. As far as what to out on it, (Not the ends), any quality paint or even an epoxy will work. I would just want to make sure the pits are filled and sealed. Once thing to avoid is, if you use an epoxy don't let it build up or it will be unbalanced when it rotates.

 

[Seadooguy10]

alright, sounds good. Wouldn't painting it not do much though? Wouldn't the salt water eat right through it?

 

[Coastiejoe]

alright, sounds good. Wouldn't painting it not do much though? Wouldn't the salt water eat right through it?

Depends on the quality of the prep as well as the quality of the paint you use..

 

[Chester]

Sorry to disagree with Coastiejoe,
I would replace that shaft. The stainless steel collar that seals against the carbon ring has 2 o-rings in it and they seal against the shaft here:

Chester

 

[Tytan]

Sorry to disagree with Coastiejoe,
I would replace that shaft. The stainless steel collar that seals against the carbon ring has 2 o-rings in it and they seal against the shaft here:

Chester

X2

I would get a replacement driveshaft no way I would reuse that one.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If the 0-rings are for sealing, then I agree, replace it. But if they are the retaining O-rings then not an issue. In flying right now and can't look at the pictures.

 

[pwgsx]

I would replace it as well, why risk it ?

 

[Seadooguy10]

Thanks for the input guys. Does anyone have one for sale?

 

[pwgsx]

Find a new one on e bay.....

 

[Seadooguy10]

Anyone know if this would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaDoo-Driv..._Watercraft_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item5afe4cab58

 

[KK40384]

Anyone know if this would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaDoo-Driv..._Watercraft_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item5afe4cab58

Yes this should work. And yes I also agree that your drive shaft is toast. It's just too far gone in the area where it seals. The rest of the pitting would be no issue.

 

[ski-d00]

I think I have a used one from a 2002 GTX 4tec that I parted out. I know I still have lots of parts from it if you need anything else except motor, LCD gauge, and ECU(would like to get rid of the hood and seats) If you're interested, I'll check. I normally sell 155 4tec driveshafts for $100.