2002 GTI LE Top End Rebuild or Replace? wwyd

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jordangeek

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First, I am super new to the SeaDoo world, and learning fast, thanks for all the massively helpful advice on my first thread, I have learned so much from simple pointers given, but still have a long way to go.

I have a 02 GTI with the 717 that has issues, and when I checked compression, I was able to See that it's Doo Doo. (75psi/100psi)
(dont crucify me, I couldn't resist, I'll show myself out :leaving:)

I found a local seller of a 717 that has, albeit claimed with a picture, with unknown test methodology, 150psi Compression in both cylinders, for $480.

I noticed that that there are sites that have a rebuild kit/service for ~$300 before shipping, its seeming like a replace would make more sense in the wallet and piece of mind.

My engine is a very low hour factory rebuild that was installed "professionally" but for some reason lost its compression after two trips to the lake.

What would you do?
Swap it out, get 'er goin?
Rebuild the Top End, wait the couple of weeks, and gamble that the lower will be good?

Also, is a 717 a 717, or are there variations I need to look out for to make sure it fits or has the power needed for this ski?
 
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It would depend on how many hours the ski has. IF it is close to 200 hours, I would not throw a top end in period. The bottom will fail and you will being doing more work. I would do a full rebuild. Places to consider are Full Bore and Seadoo Engine Shop. I have had success with Full Bore, but I have not used SES.
 
The manuals are available for free on the web. Google search seadoo manual and it will take you there.
 
Is it possible to remove the cylinders without removing the entire engine? I want to avoid messing with alignment if at all possible.
 
Sure is. Remove the exhaust, head and then cylinders.
I would suggest you investigate what happened before you spend the money just to have it happen again.
Typically it is the fuel system/carb that caused it.
 
I went with Full Bore and I'm sending pistons and plugs with it as they said they can tell me what caused it. Anyone have luck with that? Hopefully this takes care of it and I can be on the water in a couple of weeks.
 
99.9% of the time it is a dirty carb on these that cause the pistons to stick.
I suggest a new fuel strainer, new On/Off valve and a genuine Mikuni carb kit and needle and seat.
OSD seadoo can hook you up with every part you need.
I think in 02' they stopped using the gray fuel lines so if they are black don't bother replacing them.
Also now is the time to replace the little 3/32" oil injection lines from the oil pump to the manifold and make sure you are running the correct APT-TC oil.
 
Sure is. Remove the exhaust, head and then cylinders.
I would suggest you investigate what happened before you spend the money just to have it happen again.
Typically it is the fuel system/carb that caused it.

Am I removing the pipe, or the whole manifold/collector the connects to both cylinders? Ive got the pipe off from the top of the manifold, but the cylinders dont seem to want to move. Am i missing something, or just not removed enough?
 
THe manual is on google for free.
1. Remove the black plastic seat support over the engine.
2. Remove the pipe bolts and lower support bolts. Lay the pipe out of the way.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold, bolted to the cylinders.
4. Remove the cooling hoses.
5. Remove carb support bracket
6. Remove the head and shell.
7. Remove 4 cylinder bolts per cylinder.
8. Tap with rubber mallet to break base gasket loose.
9. Pull cylinder straight up and off.
 
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