Strizzo
Well-Known Member
what the PTO cover does is get in your way when you're working on the rear support bearing and the driveshaft falls off the coupler, and you need to put it back on.
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2001 XP Limited Winter Project
- Thread starter 1MACGYVER
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what the PTO cover does is get in your way when you're working on the rear support bearing and the driveshaft falls off the coupler, and you need to put it back on.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
yea, that and in the event of a driveshaft failure prevents a shaft spinning 7,000 RPM from flying off into the fuel tank between your legs... so yea, skip it 
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
I'm assuming your talking about the pto cover in the rear, the metal plate ? (the one where it kind of takes 4 hands to put the long shaft back in ?)
not the plastic pto between the motor and the tank right ...
(hmmm i'm picturing this on a 97 with a 787 motor, perhaps the 951's are diff..)
not the plastic pto between the motor and the tank right ...
(hmmm i'm picturing this on a 97 with a 787 motor, perhaps the 951's are diff..)
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
The XP 951 model has a PTO cover that has a metal bracket under it, held in place with a bolt on each side. it's a BEEOTCH to get installed, but it's a safety device...
1MACGYVER
New Member
hummm, I know where there a red ski you might be able to get one from
Looks like im raping the donor ski again
:thumbsup:
1MACGYVER
New Member
I picked up a PTO cover today, easy bolt in (there was no metal bracket on the bottom of it) and now my air intake tubes have somewhere to tie to instead of rubbing on the PTO.
Now im in search of a Microtouch or similar rev limiter and a Coffman pipe w/ water injection. if anyone knows of either please let me know.
Thanks
Now im in search of a Microtouch or similar rev limiter and a Coffman pipe w/ water injection. if anyone knows of either please let me know.
Thanks
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Only the XP and possibly HX have the cover with the bracket holes.
Had an awesome day today, Made a little circuit with some weights and floats to race around with the ski's. Also went on a little cruise up the river and even a few jumps from wakes caused by a big ferry boat
. My 720 is as fast as the 787 3D., but gets eaten by the 99XP
Can't wait to do it all again tomorrow....
5 Doo's and a broken Yami at the end Lol!!!
The fleet
. My 720 is as fast as the 787 3D., but gets eaten by the 99XP Can't wait to do it all again tomorrow....
5 Doo's and a broken Yami at the end Lol!!!
The fleet
1MACGYVER
New Member
I got a nice little delivery from the USA, new Skat trak 16/22 prop, Microtouch rev limiter and a couple of through hull fittings.
The weather on the weekend was crap so I swapped the props and mounted the new ignition, spliced cut and soldered all of the looms in. Today after work i took it down to Seadoo and got the timing light out, made a small metal pointer and got the timing checked and re-set etc
At this stage i have it at 7750rpm up from the stock 7000. Maybe after i have a few more hours on the engine ill lift it to either 8000 or 8250 :thumbsup:
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
yes, but unless it changes the laws of physics, a stock internal 951 is not long for this world at nearly 8000 rpm.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Is that the setting or are you actually hitting that? Stock is 7k WOT. limited then to 7200. Even if I'd pull the limiter, 7k is all the power mine would have...
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
did you rebuild it with stronger parts? or are you just expecting the stock ones to not last as long? there was a thread last week about mean piston speed, with a few "back of the napkin" calculations you can see that "stock internals" the 951 is at its limit at around 6850 rpms, and with a mildly built motor it would be maxed at around 7400 for a "full race" build with forged everything might be able to turn 8k but it would still be pushing it, and probably all of the parts around it.
if you think you're just going to build up a race motor around a stock bottom end and spin 8k, you're going to ventilate a lot of cases trying to do so. there have been a lot of bone stock 951 motors toss rods, turning those revs i just think will cause all kinds of headaches for you.
if you think you're just going to build up a race motor around a stock bottom end and spin 8k, you're going to ventilate a lot of cases trying to do so. there have been a lot of bone stock 951 motors toss rods, turning those revs i just think will cause all kinds of headaches for you.
It might last a few seasons, I could see it air conditioning a bottom end if he were racing it closed course every weekend. But average riding and enough RPM to smoke the guy next to you here and there. But yes at some point it might gag.
Group K has a really nice write up on the 951 mod kits. Here is an excerpt on the crank mods they do for their 100 Octane Hammer kit:
http://www.groupk.com/sd951-00.htm ( a good read)
Lower End - The crank bearings on the 951 engines have ball bearing separators (aka races) that are made from a Teflon plastic. With heavy high-rpm use, it can happen that these plastic separators break apart and exit an otherwise “good running” engine. If this happens, the crankshaft will eventually begin to eccentrically “run out” for lack of uniform support. This “run out” can cause the engine to slow, vibrate, air-leak, and eventually quit. Since we have seen these bearing cages fail over a wide range of usage hours, so it is impossible to accurately assess their life span. For this reason, we consider the installation of steel caged crank bearings to be absolutely mandatory for any Hammer Kit 951, and highly recommended for all others.
The stock 951 connecting rods are plenty strong enough to contend with the rpms and loads of the Swift Kit and Sleeper Kit. These two kits further benefit the lower end by virtue of the water ingestion protection offered by the stock ‘99 flame arrestor. However the rpms and horsepower loads of the Hammer Kit are enough to represent a reliability risk related to the stock connecting rods. To deal with this reliability problem, crank builders have retro fitted high rpm 951 cranks with Honda 500 motocrosser connecting rods (Please note: we don’t get these parts or do the work, so please don’t call us for specifics on this procedure). Since the Honda rods are slightly shorter than the stock 951 rods, the top crankcase must be machined to assure correct cylinder deck height. Group K will perform this machining operation. While there are some 951 owners that swear they have had no crank difficulties on their 7200+ rpm engines, we still consider this connecting rod/front bearing upgrade to be mandatory for any high rpm 951 platform.
Dang look at that sick ATM hood on the 95! There's a few of my parts in that sucker.
The 951 is so under engineered its not even funny. Out of the 5 951 motors that have come in for parts..only one had usable cases. I just had to refund Spim for a set after pulling my 2nd motor to send him a set of cases.
The 951 is so under engineered its not even funny. Out of the 5 951 motors that have come in for parts..only one had usable cases. I just had to refund Spim for a set after pulling my 2nd motor to send him a set of cases.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
lol ya, and I ordered them because I had two that i pulled and both had friggen holes in them.
can a 951 handle those rpm's ? this is a serious question ....
with the prices of engines in Australia, i'd recommend, a pair of deep pockets if your going to run this engine on the ragged edge. and from my experience.. it isn't worth it to push it THAT hard, the final product will only be a tad faster, each modification makes it a tad faster and it also shortens the life of the motor.
I read this once, and it fits here very well.
Fast, Cheap, Reliable
Pick 2.
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
The RXX had a 8k rev limiter setting, with a suggested top end rebuild every 25 hours.
Ita absolutely hilarious you bring this up...those last 2 RXXs I got in I had the guy program keys for them (over the summer before I bought my programmer) and one had 27 and the other 29hrs. BOTH had chunks of cases in the bottom of the hull...lol one had the chunk w/ both hose fittings still connected to hoses.
Here was the "nice" one when I got it. I kept this one all in one piece and parted the other one....and I almost got to the point when it was time to part when one of my good customers called and said his son had done something dumb and put a beachball size hole in the front of their 01 RX. I was SOOOO happy to tell him he was going to scrap his out and move everything over to the RXX!!
Heres what she looked like when I got it...
And this is what she looked like after my customer fixed her all up. Gary at Jettrim even made him a replacement RXX seat cover.
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