• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

2001 XP Limited Winter Project

Status
Not open for further replies.
I finally had some time to work on it and had some success.
I had ordered a new choke cable and magneto from the USA because i was convinced the previous owner had changed the mag but for the wrong part (there was one yellow wire not connected- not just broken off, and there was one allen head bolt that had been slightly rounded)
img0752a.jpg
After bolting it into the front housing and sitting the cover in the empty ski hooking it up and testing- still nothing.
I found 3 corroded earth wires and cut them back to good copper, re-terminated- still nothing.
For what felt like the hundredth time i measured the resistance of the wiring harness, this time with the mag connected and found very high resistance in the mag plug- after opening and wriggling the pins i have signs of life.

We lifted the engine back in and bolted it all back together, hoses on. It wont start though.
Finally the gauges light up and move, i got the VTS to go up but due to the switch block being crappy it wont go down, ill eBay a new one i think.

The next problem is the lanyard/post/mpem isnt recognising the lanyard being attached, it does a short beep then long beep when i hold down the start button, in the manual it says long beep then short beep means no lanyard is programmed for the mpem. Ill take it to Seadoo tomorrow and get it plugged in and checked
 
So we plugged on the DESS post diagnostics computer and it would not read, we realised the short beep then long beep means we were entering advanced diagnostics mode and the next 2 short beeps means the post isnt reading the dess ket or the wires are mixed.

So far ive tried 4 computers (1 dead, 3 make the exact same beep codes), 3 dess posts, 4 dess keys (even the wrong key should give 2 long beeps), rearranged the dess wires in every combination.

I have tested and tested and i think i know the wiring diagram without looking at it but still nothing.
Today i disconnected and pulled the 2 wiring looms, im going to test every wire end to end...

Any ideas??
 
This sounds like a lot of fun.... Man, this is the reason i hate electrical stuff. Sry i can't be of any help..
 
Today i tested one of the computers on another ski, reprogrammed keys and it wouldnt work therefore i came to the conclusion that it could be the computer so i went ahead and bought one on ebay with a matching dess key, hopefully it doesnt take 3 weeks to arrive but i wont hold my breath
 
:banghead: so my new computer and dess key arrived today... same thing, diagnostics beeps say no read from the dess post or mixed up wiring but i test and test- all wires have low resistance and go to the right place.....:banghead:
 
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!
I did what i should have done last week and hooked the dess post direct to the computer harness plug, two short blips and it runs!!!:thumbsup:

Even though they bell out with low resistance on every wire and with the multimeter i got perfect results from the dess post test even at the computer plug it was dodgy wiring just as the advanced diagnostics suggested.

All of the wiring 6 inches from the computer is hard and im guessing damaged from the heat off the exhaust i hope this also fixes my VTS, Ive pulled in new wires right through the harness- as soon as i get more glue-heatshrink on monday ill solder and waterproof all of the wiring joints.

Then its time to bolt the jet pump, vts etc back in and im going for a winter water test, once that is done i have a Twin Pipe lined up, re-jet and ill do my best to make the ski unridable for the average person
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Great news. Its always like that. It takes fricking ages to find the problem and turns out it was something simple. Cool, can't wait to see if i fall in the above average category:p hehehehe
 
Haha my HX is the same, most people cant ride it

I towed the XP to work and straight after i dropped it in the river, It went great, the ski flys! it was obvious that the fuel was a bit old but it was a huge success, especially considering some of the wiring was slightly dodgy.
I do have a water leak out of the cooling loop but that shouldnt be too hard to sort out, now to modify it :thumbsup:
img0860zh.jpg
 
Bit of an update

img1099da.jpgimg1098o.jpg

So ive been working on and modifying the XPL over winter, had a few rides lately which have been a lot of fun.

In the end it took a new computer (which im not entirely sure i needed). SabrToothSqrl sent me new wiring looms, top hatch, rubber seals etc which was really appreciated.

More recently my local Seadoo mechanic parted out a 2004 XPL DI so i went to town robbing parts of it, got a working VTS, complete top hood in red and black which looks mint, red bumper strips, various rubber bits etc.

To fit the new hood i had to drill new holes the fit the 2 extra gauges and mount the DESS post and choke as it already had aftermarket bars.

I also grabbed his water box and did the chop (this way i always have the original if i want to go back), gutted it and got it re welded. For a quick test I hit it with a some 'start ya bastard' and as predicted, its a little louder...

Ive had the carbys out recently and cleaned them but im still having some issues, kinda like the pulse pump isnt working but is then its good at full throttle. Ill take them out thismorning and see if i can sort it for a ride later.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
img1112yi.jpgimg1118f.jpgimg1113is.jpgimg1114ew.jpgimg1115u.jpg

On sunday i pulled the carbs and checked to see if the pulse line was getting vacuum, it wasnt
I pulled the plugs to check how fouled the rear was since the last run it had, it was black but more interestingly the tip was hammered down to the point
This lead me to pull the raves and look inside, the first 2 pics are what i saw hence 'Its Rebuild Time'

Monday night I pulled the engine using SabrToothSqrl's method, somewhat easier thanks.
Stripped it down to find the cage bearing in the small end of the PTO cyl smashed and bits right down in the crank etc.

The crank is ruined, all flogged out and pitted from the bearing bits.
I started washing it all and cleaning it top to bottom.
 
img1117kc.jpg
Earlier today i picked up an ADA racing high compression head, third hand but brand new in the packaging, 48cc domes and it looks sweet.
Im searching everywhere for a complete Coffman pipe but they are like rocking-horse shit in Australia and really pricey if you can find one.

After work today I finished stripping everything, scraped and blocked all of the gasket surfaces and prepped as much as possible.
Tonight its getting port matched and ported/de-burred up for a bit better flow by one of the guys from my local Seadoo.

Ive got a 12 hour old mint condition crank to go in, new pistons and full seal kit arriving tomorrow and the build is planned for Thursday night :cheers:.
 
score on the high comp head and domes... Shit thats going to be a quick build!!!
Are you that impatient to ride it again? :p
 
Rebuild: Done!

5 hours, full rebuild, back in the ski and fired up!!!
All ported, new pistons, seals, cage-less bearings, high comp head.
So happy right now!

img1125d.jpgimg1126dl.jpgimg1127rc.jpgimg1128al.jpgimg1129y.jpg
 
Final assembly
img1130k.jpgimg0494qn.jpgchrisjetski.jpgimg1131ks.jpgimg1132h.jpg
First start!
[video=facebook;10151177375220688]http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=10151177375220688[/video]

Cant wait to run it in on weekend
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SabrToothSqrl said:
Not sure what my method is, but thanks?

It does look good, get some GPS numbers then for us.
Click to expand...

Carbs off, then pipe off, engine out.
The first time i pulled the engine i couldnt even see how the carbs were attached so i pulled the lot at once. Also i had an engine crane whick helped heaps
 
On the XP you don't have to split the pipe either, makes it faster to reinstall... you can also leave the carbs in the hull to the side, unless you need to remove them to work on them. then none of the settings change. (throttle adjust choke, etc)

When you go to install the pipe, use super glue or similar to hold the washer to the nut for the bottom stud on the exhaust manifold. then it won't slide down between pipe and manifold. :) (but it appears you've already installed it)

looks like someone skipped installing the PTO cover / guard. the bolts under that are super fun!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Frige
96 spx project. Wont spin over.
Replies
4
Views
202
DaddyLoafin
D
S
97 XP 98 SPX what to look for
2
Replies
25
Views
913
SummaryGiraffe
S
B
1994 seadoo gts electrical problem
Replies
2
Views
226
Bkoirala
B
Trainr66
93 GTX only starts if start button pressed before safety switch
Replies
2
Views
150
Trainr66
Trainr66
R
2003 Seadoo GTI LE No power
Replies
5
Views
721
artr
artr
Back
Top