2001 GTX DI not charging - NOT Rec/Reg ?!

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Not open for further replies.


Active Member
The problem with the DI not charging has always been the Rectifier/Regulator for me, and most everyone. I have two 2001 GTX DI, and I have subbed the Rec/Regs around to verify they both work in the "good" DI. I measure 13.5v at idle, increasing with rpm. I even tried a new Rec/Reg I have. I checked the fuses on the MPEM and the one in the rear electrical box. So I figure I finally have a Stator problem, but I can measure AC on any pair of the 3 yellow wires coming from the Mag to the Rec/Reg. Also there is no shorting to ground on any of the 3 stator wires. OK, it must be the wiring harness somewhere. But, I measure continuity on both red & black wires (+ & -) from the Rec/Reg plug all the way through the MPEM and to the battery. So, now grasping for possibilities, I swap the other MPEM in, still with no charging.
What am I missing?!
Burning reg's all the time means the stator is produceing electrical spikes. Clean the Stator out and you'll be fine!
Doc - I meant that the 13.5v is what I call good, and it's what I measure with any of the Rec/Regs I've tried on the "good" GTX DI unit I have for comparison. So, the Rec/Regs I'm using are "testing" good.

Bill - I wouldn't say they burn Recs all the time, but of the four GTX DIs I've had over the years I've replaced 3 Recs, and not in the same one. I was told early on not to make the Rec/Reg charge the battery from a low state in order to make the Rec last longer, and it seems to help. There is AC from the stator, but it's good to know about spikes and cleaning.

So, if there is AC input to a good Rec, and continuity in the wiring to the battery, why do I still measure only 12.5v when running?
I'm planning a test today of wiring a battery "load" directly to the Rec/Reg output.
Its because 947's use the 12Vdc battery to power the ignition coils, and their stators only have the three battery charging coils on therm. A magnetic signal is sent from the ignition pickup trigger inside the mag housing,provided no cat-hair whisker metal shard spoiles the radio frequency as interference screws up the ignition system to the voltage regulator/rectifier & MPEM and from there back to the ignition coil(s).
If you don't want to get in there, maybe your Magnito plug is faulty? It could be internally melted. Advise you check that.

Burning reg's all the time means the stator is produceing electrical spikes. Clean the Stator out and you'll be fine!


Also, The output of a DI stator is not the same as the ouput of a carbureated motor stator. If you read the two technical specification pages for both models in the manual, it shows the DI stator puts out more wattage than does the carb model stator.

If you decide to go in there,
mark all mounts where they attach to the floor, loosen rear mounts, lift engine slightly and remove front mount.
remove the 2 allen bolts holding on the oil pump and leave it hanging by the cable, wood block under engine to support it and remove the cover. It will feel like it is kind of stuck because the magnets from the flywheel are drawing on it. Pull Cover straight out and the stator will be attached to the cover. If you see some of the windings are a different color than others there is your problem. Your stator has a dead short. I can't explain further why now you are getting only 12.5v.
The Cup protrusion should be aligned with the guide timing hole in the flywheel.

HOW do you get the flywheel off a 947?

Stick a broom handle into the nozzel to jamb the impellor from turning. If you use a steady pull on the handle of the wrench, the flywheel nut will come off long before any damage could occur to the impellor blades. Techniques vary, ect.

There are two types of flywheel pullers for that engine. The right one to use and the wrong one to use. Look up tools in the SBT Superstore catalog here and buy the aftermarket 787-947 flywheel puller tool. Remove the flywheel nut and the washer from the crankshaft. Screw the flywheel puller onto the fine threads on the face of the flywheel ( there is no reason to disturb the rotor bolts that hold the rotor to the ring gear, aka, flywheel ) until it is as tight as you can get it. Run center bolt on the flywheel tool inward and it will pop the flywheel off.

Sometimes, it is very difficult to pop the flywheels off of the 947 engines. But I will tell you how you can do it 90% of the time if it is a difficult flywheel to get off. http://www.watercraftsuperstore.net/PWC-Tools-Shop-Supplies/714SB139.html

This will require good hull ventillation. Use a fan to blow any fumes out of the hull before you use a heat gun inside the hull. Under no circumstances can you have a battery charger on the battery producing hydrogen fumes.

First apply as much tension to the center bolt of the puller as you can muster up using good leverage on the wrench. Using a (real) heat gun, point it at the center of the flywheel and let the heat soak into the metal flywheel to expand it. If the flywheel does not pop off right away, leave alot of tension ( not the heat gun ) on the bolt overnite. Chances are very good that when you go to check on it in the morning, the flywheel will have popped off during the night.

Do not remove the rotor unless it has damages to it that make it unusable. If you do take it off, you MUST buy new bolts to re-install it as the bolts are "stretch" bolts and cannot be torqued twice as they can fracture and snap off later, runing yet another stator.

Sincerly hope you find this culprete. Electricals are hard to pinpoint. I hope you find the above helpful.

Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks Bill, I learned a lot, and will undoubtedly use that info at some point.

However, given the results of my tests I may not have to go into the Mag yet.
When I disconnect the output plug from the Rec/Reg, and instead connect the output to a separate battery, it charges fine at 14v plus!!
So, AC is getting into the Rec and enough DC is coming out.
Reconnecting the plug and inserting pins there (as measurement points), I can measure about 13v at idle, but only up to 13.2v when revving, which isn't very much. Still all the while only measuring 12.5 back at the battery.
So, in all the wiring & plugs getting power from the Reg to the battery something is not allowing enough current. Since I can measure from the Reg plug back to the battery at only about 0.1 ohms resistance with the meter, there is continuity when only using the small current of the meter battery. However, maybe at 12v and 5A could there be more resistance?
I even tried a different battery out of the "good" DI, so it is not a battery internal resistance problem. The battery charges fine with my external charger.
After trying all these obscure things, I'm at a loss for what the issue is.
Well I have found the problem. Actually a Seadoo dealership mechanic friend had been thinking about it, and said the only time he has seen something like this was when something was using up the power from the Rec, like the fuel pump. Apparently the fuel pump in the DI usually uses about 4 to 5A, but can use a lot more when failing. I measured the current drawn by the pump at over 14A, whereas the "good" DI only consumed the normal 5A. With the Rec putting out from 10 to 18A, most of the power was being used by the fuel pump, MPEM, injectors, and other accessories, leaving none to charge the battery. In fact the extra needed current was measured at about 4A FROM the battery, so it was actually being discharged.

So, this is really a fuel pump issue instead of a wiring, Mag, or Rec/Reg issue.
OK....Glad you nailed that down. Help for you in the Carb adjustments STICKY at bottom of post #1 & #23.
It looks like the HFP-342 uses just as much power as the GSS-342, and 14A plus is to much for the system based on what I just found out.
So you and others have DI systems with this HFP-342 that work giving 107psi and leaving enough amps to charge the battery?
I have sent emails to HighFlow asking why they don't show in their specs that the HFP-342 can go to 109psi, and never received a response.
During past testing I've run the DI OEM pump over 160psi and it still was going up. How can someone build a pump like that which only uses 2A to get to the 27psi to charge the rail, then only 4 to 5A to go up to 107psi at WOT?? I thought someone wrote that the original DI pump was made by Airtec(?), but does anyone know who builds the new DI pump for Bombardier? Are any pumps like that available, or do we have to use the 14A+ aftermarket pumps? Even if you get a 14A pump to barely work you may only get the leftover 1 or 2A of charging, probably always maxing out the Rec/Reg at 18A+ and therefore limiting its lifetime.
Does anyone have data on these pumps that verifies or refutes any of these doubts?
Not open for further replies.