Burning reg's all the time means the stator is produceing electrical spikes. Clean the Stator out and you'll be fine!
http://www.pwctoday.com/f15/98-xpl-electrical-short-185800.html
Also, The output of a DI stator is not the same as the ouput of a carbureated motor stator. If you read the two technical specification pages for both models in the manual, it shows the DI stator puts out more wattage than does the carb model stator.
If you decide to go in there,
mark all mounts where they attach to the floor, loosen rear mounts, lift engine slightly and remove front mount.
remove the 2 allen bolts holding on the oil pump and leave it hanging by the cable, wood block under engine to support it and remove the cover. It will feel like it is kind of stuck because the magnets from the flywheel are drawing on it. Pull Cover straight out and the stator will be attached to the cover. If you see some of the windings are a different color than others there is your problem. Your stator has a dead short. I can't explain further why now you are getting only 12.5v.
The Cup protrusion should be aligned with the guide timing hole in the flywheel.
HOW do you get the flywheel off a 947?
Stick a broom handle into the nozzel to jamb the impellor from turning. If you use a steady pull on the handle of the wrench, the flywheel nut will come off long before any damage could occur to the impellor blades. Techniques vary, ect.
There are two types of flywheel pullers for that engine. The right one to use and the wrong one to use. Look up tools in the SBT Superstore catalog here and buy the aftermarket 787-947 flywheel puller tool. Remove the flywheel nut and the washer from the crankshaft. Screw the flywheel puller onto the fine threads on the face of the flywheel ( there is no reason to disturb the rotor bolts that hold the rotor to the ring gear, aka, flywheel ) until it is as tight as you can get it. Run center bolt on the flywheel tool inward and it will pop the flywheel off.
Sometimes, it is very difficult to pop the flywheels off of the 947 engines. But I will tell you how you can do it 90% of the time if it is a difficult flywheel to get off.
http://www.watercraftsuperstore.net/PWC-Tools-Shop-Supplies/714SB139.html
This will require good hull ventillation. Use a fan to blow any fumes out of the hull before you use a heat gun inside the hull. Under no circumstances can you have a battery charger on the battery producing hydrogen fumes.
First apply as much tension to the center bolt of the puller as you can muster up using good leverage on the wrench. Using a (real) heat gun, point it at the center of the flywheel and let the heat soak into the metal flywheel to expand it. If the flywheel does not pop off right away, leave alot of tension ( not the heat gun ) on the bolt overnite. Chances are very good that when you go to check on it in the morning, the flywheel will have popped off during the night.
Do not remove the rotor unless it has damages to it that make it unusable. If you do take it off, you MUST buy new bolts to re-install it as the bolts are "stretch" bolts and cannot be torqued twice as they can fracture and snap off later, runing yet another stator.
Sincerly hope you find this culprete. Electricals are hard to pinpoint. I hope you find the above helpful.
Bills86e
