Purchase a wix 33095 inline filter, then purchase 2 heavy duty stainless steel hose clamps.
Cut the inline filter out as close to the fittings as possible and replace with the below filter.
Go ride and enjoy. Every off season when winterizing just change the filter for a few bucks and live happily after. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-33095?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo
Purchase a wix 33095 inline filter, then purchase 2 heavy duty stainless steel hose clamps.
Cut the inline filter out as close to the fittings as possible and replace with the below filter.
Go ride and enjoy. Every off season when winterizing just change the filter for a few bucks and live happily after. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wix-33095?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo
Have you used these filters? What is the pressure rating? I know the DI is 107psi, I don't want to have any issues with Fuel leakage and a potential fire.
Have you used these filters? What is the pressure rating? I know the DI is 107psi, I don't want to have any issues with Fuel leakage and a potential fire.
Ski is probably in limp mode. Start ski on trailer with volt meter hooked to the battery and rev to 3500rpms.
Volt meter should read between 13.5 to 14.5vdc. Anything voltage under or over readings and your rectifier is bad.
I would compression test first. If compression is low, all else is a moot point.
If, in fact the rectifier is bad I recommend replacing with only OEM rectifier. Most on eBay are cheap.
Long list of things that could be causing rough idle including a bad rectifier allowing AC voltage through your ski's electrical system, as well as, low compression in one cylinder. That's where I would start compression then voltage test, not necessarily in that order.
As far as fuel filter, invest in a K&N PF-1300, easy swap, rated to 205psi. I would also make sure you use quality clamps, I personally use crimp style (like the factory ones).