2000 Seadoo GTX Rotax Direct Injection engine in parts

[superchip2000]

This is my first post so please excuse me. This is my situation. A friend of my family had the listed seadoo as it came with a house that they bought. They road it for a few summers no problems. The last time that they had it out on the water it stopped working after a "horrible sound." They took the ski into the dealership and have it checked out. They were told that it was seized up and that it would cost around $3,000 to repair. They told them to stop, that they were not going to put that kind of money into it. The dealer put the engine in pieces into a box and told them to come and get it.

My friends gave me the seadoo as a project because they had no interest in getting it fixed. From looking at all of the parts of the motor that were in the box, the only thing that I can see is wrong is that one cylinder is marked up a little and the piston looks like the rings broke which in turn scored the cylinder wall.

I am thinking about trying to get this machine put back together by doing a top end rebuild. I know that I will have to get all new gaskets because this thing is completly taken apart. I have a shop manual for the machine. What are some other tips/things that I should be looking for before I start trying to rebuild this mess. By looking at the engine parts, the cylinder "jug" and the piston are the only things that I can see is the problem.

Or should I just part this thing out and run!

Thanks for the help and support

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

If it was me, part it and run!! Direct Injection engines can be very finnicky, especially you dont know ever hearing it run and its been 3 years since it has. Heck the dealer did half the work for you already by taking out the engine, and you should be able to make some good money parting it out if you take your time...

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Yup, and if you were to rebuild the motor it needs a crank. 951 cranks are weak to begin with.

 

[superchip2000]

They road it for a few summers before the issue this August. I really hate to scrape it because of the condition of the hull and everything. The only issue seems to be the top end. Thank you for the advise and I will start checking into how much I can get for the parts if I choose to go that route.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Since you paid nothing for it (i assume), if it's in good shape, I'd at least try to bring it back to life.

Send the whole engine (core) to a shop that will give you a 1-2 year no fault warranty. replacing just the top end on a 13 year old engine is asking for trouble. Get the whole thing rebuilt and install it!

If the body is shot and the seat destroyed, part it out. But I have a feeling that you could bring this back to life. and if that fails, you can sell the engine as working.

 

[superchip2000]

Since you paid nothing for it (i assume), if it's in good shape, I'd at least try to bring it back to life.

Send the whole engine (core) to a shop that will give you a 1-2 year no fault warranty. replacing just the top end on a 13 year old engine is asking for trouble. Get the whole thing rebuilt and install it!

If the body is shot and the seat destroyed, part it out. But I have a feeling that you could bring this back to life. and if that fails, you can sell the engine as working.

I have been doing some research in this area. Fullbore and SBT are a few that I have heard of. Is there any that you would recomend in sending the core off to?

 

[Spimothy Leary]

this is a DI, correct ?

just to be 100% sure you see something that looks like this in the box or in the engine ?

if yes, and you've never rebuilt an engine before,let alone a DI, then you have two options.

part it out and part it out. (selling as is will fetch about half of what its worth)(ask me how I know this lol)

the engine itself is worth $300 (I sold mine to SBT) the MPEM is hard to sell but worth $300 when it does, then you have lots and lots of extra parts, another $4-700 depending on how patient you are as a seller.

if you part it out, you have about $1200ish in misc (rough numbers)(more money than that if you completely strip it, motor mounts, waterbox, gauges, fuel delivery, yada yada yada

if you decide to fix it, the engine will have to go to a real shop to do it.

lets use SBT as an example.. $1600 + shipping (assumes the cases are acceptable as cores)(same goes for selling it)

so you spend $1600 and get a new engine, THEN your going to have to figure out how to put it all back together (meaning all the electrical connections, fuel lines, etc, and there are a LOT of them)

and at this point, your not sure what caused the engine to seize up right ? so you'll have to fix that problem, which may be in the fuel delivery area, diagnose & repair,, mo' money, mo'money.

if this was a 787 carb motor, i'd be encouraging you to fix it,,, but since its a 951 DI, i'm encouraging you to stop while your ahead, because you were in over your head the minute you wrote this thread. (not an insult, i had a similar ski, same motor, i parted it out completely, i've been riding for years, have a healthy repair budget, and have access to a very qualified technician with a full shop, and we decided in all of about 30 seconds that we were NOT going to fix that engine), but with that engine I was in over my head the minute I took the seat cover off...

part it out, make a grand, use the money to buy a different ski, take your neighbors for a ride in the new ski, or open up an IRA if your more practical.

 

[superchip2000]

this is a DI, correct ?

just to be 100% sure you see something that looks like this in the box or in the engine ?

if yes, and you've never rebuilt an engine before,let alone a DI, then you have two options.

part it out and part it out. (selling as is will fetch about half of what its worth)(ask me how I know this lol)

the engine itself is worth $300 (I sold mine to SBT) the MPEM is hard to sell but worth $300 when it does, then you have lots and lots of extra parts, another $4-700 depending on how patient you are as a seller.

if you part it out, you have about $1200ish in misc (rough numbers)(more money than that if you completely strip it, motor mounts, waterbox, gauges, fuel delivery, yada yada yada

if you decide to fix it, the engine will have to go to a real shop to do it.

lets use SBT as an example.. $1600 + shipping (assumes the cases are acceptable as cores)(same goes for selling it)

so you spend $1600 and get a new engine, THEN your going to have to figure out how to put it all back together (meaning all the electrical connections, fuel lines, etc, and there are a LOT of them)

and at this point, your not sure what caused the engine to seize up right ? so you'll have to fix that problem, which may be in the fuel delivery area, diagnose & repair,, mo' money, mo'money.

if this was a 787 carb motor, i'd be encouraging you to fix it,,, but since its a 951 DI, i'm encouraging you to stop while your ahead, because you were in over your head the minute you wrote this thread. (not an insult, i had a similar ski, same motor, i parted it out completely, i've been riding for years, have a healthy repair budget, and have access to a very qualified technician with a full shop, and we decided in all of about 30 seconds that we were NOT going to fix that engine), but with that engine I was in over my head the minute I took the seat cover off...

part it out, make a grand, use the money to buy a different ski, take your neighbors for a ride in the new ski, or open up an IRA if your more practical.

I don't remember seeing that part in the box. I will have to look when I get home. Here is a picture that I have of the GTX. I know that the seat is trashed, but they also gave me a new cover.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I don't remember seeing that part in the box. I will have to look when I get home. Here is a picture that I have of the GTX. I know that the seat is trashed, but they also gave me a new cover.

View attachment 17523
View attachment 17524

looks like a DI to me based on the hull markings.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

SBT will most like you get an engine the fastest. I've heard rumors they lower the compression to improve reliability (at the expense of performance) however that's just a rumor. I do not have photos or anything to prove it.

I use SES - SEA-DOO Engine Shop out of Horsham, PA, because they are close, less expensive, and the owner talks to you and really believes in their work.

SES has had issues with turn around time, so if you need it 'NOW' I'd suggest a company that just swaps you engines. SES rebuilds 'YOUR' engine.

I'd hate to see a ski go to the grave if it's in good shape. Post up some photos. the GTX is a great hull. I currently have 3 of them lol.

 

[superchip2000]

SBT will most like you get an engine the fastest. I've heard rumors they lower the compression to improve reliability (at the expense of performance) however that's just a rumor. I do not have photos or anything to prove it.

I use SES - SEA-DOO Engine Shop out of Horsham, PA, because they are close, less expensive, and the owner talks to you and really believes in their work.

SES has had issues with turn around time, so if you need it 'NOW' I'd suggest a company that just swaps you engines. SES rebuilds 'YOUR' engine.

I'd hate to see a ski go to the grave if it's in good shape. Post up some photos. the GTX is a great hull. I currently have 3 of them lol.

Thanks SabrToothSqrl for the advise. I have a two pictures listed above. It was dirty in those pictures. The thing looks brand new minus the seat right now. I am just torn between scrapping it and trying to make it work again. At the same time, I don't want to loose my ass over it.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

I fix up carb 951s all the time. This would be a fix up no brainer, however there are a few tests you can do (without a working engine) to make sure it's worth the time.

Because, even if you spend $1400 or so to fix the engine, you can still part it out, just now with a working engine.

1. get a good battery - charge it up (make SURE it's the right one, DO NOT USE any other battery or try to jump start this thing, it will blow the MPEM and it will be scrap at that point!

2. attach the lanyard - does it beep beep?

3. remove lanyard
4. push start to entergize the gauges. (LANYARD OFF).
5. press 'mode' on the handle bars. does it change the display?
6. press start again (you only get 33 seconds to play with the gauges)
7. find a lovely assistant (or an ugly one) and use a hose to point a stream of water at the paddle wheel on the back end (it doesn't matter which way you spin it).
8. does the speedometer register?
9. does the air temp on the multi-gauge show close to the air temp?
10. does the handle bar turn freely?
11. reverse gate drop easily?
12. fuel gauge - does it read about what's in the tank ? (open the hood and remove the large white bin, then with a flashlight you can see the fuel level.
13. - was the correct oil used in this ski? (not starting an oil debate) the 951 calls for XPS-2 oil from a dealer or online.

How's the impeller / jet pump? lookin' good? (google the terms and get a flash light).

if all this checks out, I'd bring it back. yes the DI has more hookups and more to go wrong, but there are only so many of these things left in the world. ...

if the items on this list fail to function, then send it to the grave yard.

Strip the MPEM, engine core, RAVE valve, jet pump, reverse gate, storage bins (including glove box) hood, gauges, speedo sensor, buttons, etc.

Everything bastically but the fiberglass has some value.

A saws-all makes short work of fiberglass- but wear a mask.

 

[superchip2000]

I fix up carb 951s all the time. This would be a fix up no brainer, however there are a few tests you can do (without a working engine) to make sure it's worth the time.

Because, even if you spend $1400 or so to fix the engine, you can still part it out, just now with a working engine.

1. get a good battery - charge it up (make SURE it's the right one, DO NOT USE any other battery or try to jump start this thing, it will blow the MPEM and it will be scrap at that point!

2. attach the lanyard - does it beep beep?

3. remove lanyard
4. push start to entergize the gauges. (LANYARD OFF).
5. press 'mode' on the handle bars. does it change the display?
6. press start again (you only get 33 seconds to play with the gauges)
7. find a lovely assistant (or an ugly one) and use a hose to point a stream of water at the paddle wheel on the back end (it doesn't matter which way you spin it).
8. does the speedometer register?
9. does the air temp on the multi-gauge show close to the air temp?
10. does the handle bar turn freely?
11. reverse gate drop easily?
12. fuel gauge - does it read about what's in the tank ? (open the hood and remove the large white bin, then with a flashlight you can see the fuel level.
13. - was the correct oil used in this ski? (not starting an oil debate) the 951 calls for XPS-2 oil from a dealer or online.

How's the impeller / jet pump? lookin' good? (google the terms and get a flash light).

if all this checks out, I'd bring it back. yes the DI has more hookups and more to go wrong, but there are only so many of these things left in the world. ...

if the items on this list fail to function, then send it to the grave yard.

Strip the MPEM, engine core, RAVE valve, jet pump, reverse gate, storage bins (including glove box) hood, gauges, speedo sensor, buttons, etc.

Everything bastically but the fiberglass has some value.

A saws-all makes short work of fiberglass- but wear a mask.

I will try all of the above as soon as I can. Thanks for the help.