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2000 GTX compression

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LKGrider

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Working on a friends GTX. Has the 951. Compression is 95 & 107psi. Should be around 130-135psi correct? Are my readings too low? Ski runs sluggish. I know it's prob time for carb rebuilds but don't want to do that till I know if I'm going to need to do a top end as well. Has about 120 hrs on it.
 
Too low,,,

If they were both around 110 it would run. Not fantastic, but it would if everything else was good.
 
It will start now and idle. Running through the water though it's a turd. Feels like I'm dragging an anchor. Guess the low compression would explain that. With the hours (120) that's on it is it safe to just do a top end kit?
 
1. if the fuel lines are grey tempo, they will need replaced.
2. I'd overhaul the carbs first, cleaning all the filters in them and your underhood one.
3. if the ski is still sluggish, I'd rebuild the WHOLE engine. it's fourteen (14) YEARS old... you throw a new top end in there and you might get 1-2 seasons from that crank...

I use rebuild shops w/a warranty, but that's up to you.

Carbs/fuel lines are quicker / easier than an engine... and will need done anyway, so I'd start there.

new plugs won't hurt either.
 
It will start now and idle. Running through the water though it's a turd. Feels like I'm dragging an anchor. Guess the low compression would explain that. With the hours (120) that's on it is it safe to just do a top end kit?

double post...

so i'll post this.

75.jpg
 
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1. if the fuel lines are grey tempo, they will need replaced.
2. I'd overhaul the carbs first, cleaning all the filters in them and your underhood one.
3. if the ski is still sluggish, I'd rebuild the WHOLE engine. it's fourteen (14) YEARS old... you throw a new top end in there and you might get 1-2 seasons from that crank...

I use rebuild shops w/a warranty, but that's up to you.

Carbs/fuel lines are quicker / easier than an engine... and will need done anyway, so I'd start there.

new plugs won't hurt either.

It has new fuel lines and I have cleaned out the fuel filter. I may just go through the carbs first. I just didn't want to do that if I would be waisting my time with the comp readings I have. When I do full motor rebuilds I usually use SES. I've used him before and never had a problem.
 
Well I pulled the carbs off tonight. Diaphragms don't look to good. Filters had a little trash in them. Pop offs were at 27. The low speed screws were 1 3/4 turns out. High speed screws were 1/2 turn out. If I was reading correctly they should be 1 1/4 and 0 turns out right? Also while pulling the exhaust pipe off trying to pop it loose I noticed the whole motor about pulled up with it!!! Front motor mount and 1 rear are totally broke. Other rear is just about fully broke. That could cause some of the running issue too if the motor is moving and binding the driveshaft that would cause it to be sluggish right?
 
Low 1.5 turns out. High closed.

http://www.seadoosource.com/carbreference.html

At 14 years old, I'd just throw new carbs on it $400 + new jets.

Then sell your old carbs.

you'll want to replace your motor mounts as well, at this point it's moot, you need an engine.

I also use SES.

If it were mine and I was putting a new heart into it, I would over-kill as well. I am very anal about my toys. Almost anything inside the hull would be new and I would be selling quality used parts once it was together and running. You will need to "align" your engine as well.
 
Yeah I have the alignment tool. Will need to align it either way now since all the motor mounts are shot. I'm helping a good friend of mine get it back going again as cheap as possible. At least to ride for another year or so then either re power or sell the good parts.
 
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