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2 cycle oil tank delete

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Technically you still need to keep the tank and lines hooked up as the oil tank feeds the rotary valve shaft cavity. This is an oil bath, with a high mounted outlet and a low mounted inlet. As the oil is heated in the cavity while the engine is running, it goes out the upper nipple and back to the oil tank, while simultaneously drawing "cold" fresh oil into the cavity via the lower nipple.

To properly answer your question, you can remove the oil injection pump and block off the hole with a block-off plate. You will then need to premix your fuel. The oil tank and larger diameter oil lines still stay in the boat. And while you wont consume oil nearly as fast, it will still break down over time and some may seep by the crank seals, so changing/filling it will still need to be done.

Let me know if I helped or hurt your question- I can explain more if need be but thats most of it.
 
Technically you still need to keep the tank and lines hooked up as the oil tank feeds the rotary valve shaft cavity. This is an oil bath, with a high mounted outlet and a low mounted inlet. As the oil is heated in the cavity while the engine is running, it goes out the upper nipple and back to the oil tank, while simultaneously drawing "cold" fresh oil into the cavity via the lower nipple.

Can you provide alittle more info on the process of using your oil tank to bath the rotary and balance shaft? I have a 96 spx and when i had the engine replaced the guy just ran a hose with oil in it from the rotary to the other side of the motor, my oil tank is not hooked up any more. can I just attach a Y joint in the hose and connect the oil tank hose to that?:confused::confused::confused:

Thanks,
Sean
 
It is much easier to just keep the oil tank and just get rid of the oil line that goes to the oil pump by blocking it off with like a rubber cap or something. You can keep more oil in the tank in case something bad happens as well than just connecting the 2 lines together
 
This is important, you will also need to cap off the nipples at the intake manifold where oil is injected into the engine, failure to do so will allow air into the engine resulting in a lean condition.

I personally would keep the oil injection system.

Lou
 
Wish I could get rid of my oil tank. Still can't figure out where my leak is coming from. It's less now that I moved the hose from the oil injection. Bottom of the motor feels dry so doesn't appear to be coming from there. Can't for the life of me figure how it can magically get from the tank to the bottom of the hull but leave no trace as to where it came from. Grrrr.......anywho I digress.

I'm a premix fan.
 
Can you provide alittle more info on the process of using your oil tank to bath the rotary and balance shaft? I have a 96 spx and when i had the engine replaced the guy just ran a hose with oil in it from the rotary to the other side of the motor, my oil tank is not hooked up any more. can I just attach a Y joint in the hose and connect the oil tank hose to that?:confused::confused::confused:

Thanks,
Sean

The way you have it will cause a rotary valve shaft failure for sure- you need more oil to circulate than just that little loop. The way I explained it is the way it is hooked up from the factory. Adding a Y wont allow the PROPER circulation but I bet its better than the loop you have.

It is much easier to just keep the oil tank and just get rid of the oil line that goes to the oil pump by blocking it off with like a rubber cap or something. You can keep more oil in the tank in case something bad happens as well than just connecting the 2 lines together

THIS is probably the best way if you want to run premix, just in case you get caught with your pants down and no premix oil at the gas pump, you can hook it back up in a minute and keep riding.

This is important, you will also need to cap off the nipples at the intake manifold where oil is injected into the engine, failure to do so will allow air into the engine resulting in a lean condition.

I personally would keep the oil injection system.

Lou

Lou you're absolutely right, those two little nipples will be the biggest air leak problem ever! I forgot to mention that.
 
The way you have it will cause a rotary valve shaft failure for sure- you need more oil to circulate than just that little loop. The way I explained it is the way it is hooked up from the factory. Adding a Y wont allow the PROPER circulation but I bet its better than the loop you have.



THIS is probably the best way if you want to run premix, just in case you get caught with your pants down and no premix oil at the gas pump, you can hook it back up in a minute and keep riding.

I’m trying to visualize this, can someone take a picture of their setup:confused:, so I have a reference?
Also my engine already has a block off kit on it and runs premix. Thanks....
 
There is no way to switch back to oil injection in a hurry or a bind. It is not a simply, "oh Ill switch to oil injection this ride" type of thing. In order to switch back to oil injection, you would have to

1. Remove airbox
2. put oil pump back on
3. put oil gear back in mag housing
4. put on oil injection lines and bleed them
5. Connect oil injection cable and make sure it is aligned


If you are going to do premix, you will have to stick with it or go through a whole afternoon of switching back.

In order to switch to premix you MUST

1. Remove oil pump and cable.
2. Remove pump gear
3. Remove oil injection lines and put vacuum caps over the nipples they connect to on the RV cover.
4. Put a blockoff plate on the mag housing.
5. Put a rubber or vacuum cap on the big oil line fitting that goes to the oil tank to the oil pump.
6. Premix 40:1 and watch you go through oil like no ones business


This is all coming from a guy who has 3 premix skis, and one oil injection. For me, seadoo oil injection is very reliable, WAYY more than Yami's...

Keeping the tank in and the lines attached to it that go to the rotary valve ensures that you will always have plenty of oil in there, more than a little loop of a couple lines
 
These guys have it covered....

BUT...

The loop will work. But, if you have a leak, the RV gears will fail quick. The loop is fine on a race ski... but for a recreational ski, there is no reason to remove the oil tank, or the oil injection.
 
I have converted my ski to premix last year and this year i removed the oil tank. I replaced the tank with a brake reservoir for a street bike. I plumed the lines from each side of the block to a T and then up to the reservoir. Its jsut a simple design to have more oil than just running a loop from one side to another.
 
So; let me get this strait. You have a working ski, that has two tanks to make it super easy to use, and produce very little smoke, or foul the plugs... and... that's just not your style?


Keep the tank.

If you are so bored you are looking for projects, I have grass that needs cut :)
 
I have converted my ski to premix last year and this year i removed the oil tank. I replaced the tank with a brake reservoir for a street bike. I plumed the lines from each side of the block to a T and then up to the reservoir. Its jsut a simple design to have more oil than just running a loop from one side to another.

ohhhhhh good idea. I may do this to get rid of the damn oil leak.
 
Pre-Mix is just my opinion. I do it with all the toys and i dont mind it. I just did the tank delete for more room in the hull for possibly a custom gas tank. Maybe. As far as the spark plugs go, i use a set a year. And i dont need to replace them. I just put new ones in at the beginning of every season since by that time the old ones are rusted. And my ski doesnt smoke. I run it about 40:1 Amsoil and always 93 octane. My only toy that smokes is the banshee. But it runs Klotz and its been 6 years since a rebuild and has had the same plugs in for 3 years.

All of that is just my opinion. You can keep the tank or delete it. I was just offering my opinion on what to replace the tank with if you wanted to go that route. lol
 
Technically you still need to keep the tank and lines hooked up as the oil tank feeds the rotary valve shaft cavity. This is an oil bath, with a high mounted outlet and a low mounted inlet. As the oil is heated in the cavity while the engine is running, it goes out the upper nipple and back to the oil tank, while simultaneously drawing "cold" fresh oil into the cavity via the lower nipple.

To properly answer your question, you can remove the oil injection pump and block off the hole with a block-off plate. You will then need to premix your fuel. The oil tank and larger diameter oil lines still stay in the boat. And while you wont consume oil nearly as fast, it will still break down over time and some may seep by the crank seals, so changing/filling it will still need to be done.

Let me know if I helped or hurt your question- I can explain more if need be but thats most of it.

okay the oil pump on the front of the motor i gotta remove and put a plate and block off the line right ?
 
In order to switch to premix you MUST

1. Remove oil pump and cable.
2. Remove pump gear
3. Remove oil injection lines and put vacuum caps over the nipples they connect to on the RV cover.
4. Put a blockoff plate on the mag housing.
5. Put a rubber or vacuum cap on the big oil line fitting that goes to the oil tank to the oil pump.
6. Premix 40:1 and watch you go through oil like no ones business

Like I said...
 
Does anyone how to hook up this tank for the rotary etc and where to connect oil lines? Ski is premix.
CAM00041_zps87af6ddb.jpg
CAM00042_zps17a23ed1.jpg
 
How can you attach the oil tank to the rotary if you'll running premix. What do you do with all those hoses.
 
How can you attach the oil tank to the rotary if you'll running premix. What do you do with all those hoses.

Leave the hoses attached to the rotary, tie up(and cap off) the hose that would have gone to the injection. Bingo, premix away.
 
everyone has their own wants.for me,i recently put the oil injection BACK ON all of my skis,just so i dont have to constantly premix.last summer i went thru about 400 buks worth of oil.
hated it.have now gone thru 5 tanks of fuel-ish,and havnt had to touch a ratio right since! injection is the way to go for me.
 
While we are on this discussion, what do you guys think about running a little premix WITH your oil injection. I was told by the guy at the Seadoo dealership that he once ran 128:1 in his gas tank at all times just in case the oil injection failed, or he ran out of oil etc.
 
While we are on this discussion, what do you guys think about running a little premix WITH your oil injection. I was told by the guy at the Seadoo dealership that he once ran 128:1 in his gas tank at all times just in case the oil injection failed, or he ran out of oil etc.

There are a lot of people who run extra oil. 1oz/gal is the normal added mix. But... if your system is working... it's not needed.
 
I only do that for break-in or if I've changed the oil lines and there's the chance of an air gap. but only for 1 tank either way. Or if I buy a ski that someone used the wrong oil in, and I have to switch to the correct oil (NOT starting an oil thread!) I will do it for 1 tank, in case of air gaps or etc.
 
everyone has their own wants.for me,i recently put the oil injection BACK ON all of my skis,just so i dont have to constantly premix.last summer i went thru about 400 buks worth of oil.
hated it.have now gone thru 5 tanks of fuel-ish,and havnt had to touch a ratio right since! injection is the way to go for me.

Yup. I'll be lucky if I burn through this gallon of oil this riding season. Wife is likely to be preggo( hopefully) so only riding will be done when at my buddy's lake house.
 
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