1999 XP limited Starter issue

[VaDeerHunter]

I just picked up a nice 99 XP, set up for premix runs okay except for a ton of smoke (found the former owner was mixing fuel at 32:1 instead of 40:1) which should solve itself. The ski has three problems, the fuel selector is not good on the regular flow side but good on reserve (ordering new selector), VTS is not working, and last but not least has a very strange starter issue that sounds like the relay. When you push the start button sometimes the starter turns right away, other times it stops then starts turning again on its own (as long as you keep pushing the start button), other times you push the button and nothing. Eventually it does start, which is good but I am afraid one day the relay (or switch) is going to leave me floating down the river. The ski has new battery which checks good under test. Any suggestions or experience appreciated.

Pat

 

[Coastiejoe]

Fuel selectors go bad pretty often. But it is normally because of Grey Tempo Fuel lines. If you have the Tempo lines you need to replace them, all filters, fuel switch, go through the carbs and clean the filters that are inside the carbs ( do not use carb cleaner in them as they are plastic),

It does sound like a starter solenoid issue. Either replace it as they also fail often or be ready to test for power at the small wire going to the solenoid the next time it fails. If there is power it is the solenoid. If no power then likely the start/stop switch.

VTS fail at a high rate as well. Is the fuse at the MPEM blown? Give us this info and we will go from there.

 

[VaDeerHunter]

It seems now I get starter spinning without engagement which now seems to point to the bendix? I will check the fuses, all of the ones that are in the black are good but one slot is empty.

Hy, thanks for the help!

 

[Coastiejoe]

It seems now I get starter spinning without engagement which now seems to point to the bendix? I will check the fuses, all of the ones that are in the black are good but one slot is empty.

Hy, thanks for the help!

You now need to get a reading on the battery while cranking... Starting to sound like you have a voltage issue..

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I replace a lot of starter solenoids, they don't need to corrode much inside before they start getting flaky.

I take them home, pry off the bottom carefully, pop the stud lugs out, clean 'em up with a wire brush, reassemble and crimp the bottom back on then they work like new. Got a drawer full of cleaned-up quicksilver89-96158T solenoids..... and there's probably near 5 boats out on the lake with brand new ones this year.

But, I do go through the voltage checks to confirm the solenoid is the problem instead of something else, like the starter, if I can get the problem to repeat.

I don't much like working on somebodies boat then having them call me the day after needing me to come tow them back to the marina.

 

[VaDeerHunter]

New battery but I agree and will see how much drop I get.

Pat

 

[VaDeerHunter]

This gets better by the day, I was curious as to why the motor smoked so much and figured once it warmed up it would be better. But I was curious and text'd the previous owner. Only to find out he used TWC-3 oil...Now that being said it was run premix which should help and it was near empty when I put 5 gallons in with synthetic in the tank, like I used in my 96 XP. Seems the smoke has gotten better. Now I guess I need to clean the RAVE valves over the winter and hope the change of oil type takes care of the rest of the mess. I use the Mercury PWC syn from Wally world and it seems to do just fine injection or mix.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Knowledge is power... At least you found out and have winter time to play with it..

 

[VaDeerHunter]

Okay, checked battery, 11.99 volts with a drop of to 11.09 after start then recharges quick. Seems the draw is not the problem. Occasionally its seems to start just like it should other times begins to start, stop s and as long as I hold the start switch it engages again and continues to spin, then stops and starts to turn over agin until it finally starts. Really weird.

 

[AdamXP800]

The aqua torque starter that was on my ski when I bought it did this exact same thing. Then one day in the middle of the lake....

 

[VaDeerHunter]

Ah the plot thickens....So I will start (no pun intended) with the starter relay-selinoid, if that doesn't fix it.... new starter. Looks like its no fun on a 951.....changing it out.

Thanks! I knew someone out there would be able to relate!

Pat

 

[VaDeerHunter]

Does the starter and bendix come out as one piece or two? And can it all be done without pulling the carbs or anything else? I see three bolts holding the starter in place.

Thanks,

Pat

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

It's actually 2 bolts. You do not need to remove the carbs.

 

[grinditout]

test switch before pulling starter, continuity....at harness...

 

[- BiRkS_]

Do the voltage checks, most importantly, check the ground (its one of the bolts you will remove when taking out the starter)
If you have a solid 12V (no less than 11.5V while cranking at the starter (ground the volt meter to a head bolt or exhaust bolt, not the battery. Then take pos lead of meter and put on load side of solonoid (the one to the starter) That is how you get the correct reading. You are now testing both the positive and ground connections. If those all check out OK, then move on to the starter. Remove the air box and take your time. When undoing the starter, give it a twist and pull (there are 2 o-rings that seal it to the stator housing.)

To access the bendix, you have to pull the front stator cover. It is held in with a plastic strip and 2 bolts. On a XP you may be lucky and wont have to pull the engine to get to it.

 

[VaDeerHunter]

Good plan, I will do that as soon as I get the engine out of the 96 XP I have. I am having trouble getting the exhaust pipe out. I need to separate the two sections of the main pipe and don't know how to do that, Looks like I need to get an edge between the gasket and pipe sections, then slowly separate the two pieces. The 98 XP looks far easier to work on. That one is going to need a top end rebuild.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Pat