1998 Sea GTX RFI only 104 hours overheating not on flusher help please... I purchased this beautiful ski recently and finally got it running

Hello Gentleman, A new purchase for me its only showing 104hrs and is in really good condition. Guy I bought from couldn't get to turn over, but it was caused by the hydrolocked engine due to oil into the cylinders, after much oil in face, driveway, 30 rags later she fired up although that is not the issue. It is giving me an overheat issue, seems like .5miles is about how long it takes, it still runs the same except at idle when it idles up for 30-60 seconds then idles back down and I can go again. Apparently, it was used most of its time in a S.C. lake and looks so good I believe it. I know the check valve is leaking oil into the engine, not a priority atm.

I am a 2 stroke boat guy so this is new to me, I blew out most of the lines both directions, also to note of course it wont overheat on hose and is very cold coming out pisser. I took temp gun with me on last attempt after the air flushing and noticed it was very warm coming out of the pisser after alarm goes off, I got 115-120 degrees in my hand basically as hot as I want water in my hand before it really burns, for me that is a high temp on a outboard as its usually just very warm.

I can idle and within 10-30 secoinds the light goes away and I am good for another half mile at various speeds. At this point I dont think its the temp sensor but am not sure how to test with a OHM meter to confirm. I didnt blow out the exhaust/water box. Also, I am getting a decent/weak stream at idle. Could someone please tell me what temp I should be looking for on ski or where to go next. Should I pull the pump and check the inlets for debris as I cant see in them of feel for air when backflushing. I have read about the wear ring does this sound like it could be the issue? I have searched many, many posts I cannot find this exact issue anywhere.

The only temp sensor I can find is on the head, is there another to help me narrow down where its too hot or can anyone let me know how hot the exhaust/water box should be. I appreciate any wisdom or suggestions.

Thank you.
 
How hot is the actual engine? Also how hard was it coming out the pisser.
It was around 115-120 degrees after 10-15 seconds it takes for me to go to the back with the temp gun. Basically, about all the heat I want it my hand, think of someone that has hot water heater turned way up and you don't know it. have been thinking today about when I blew air into cylinder head, and it seemed like most of the air wanted to go out the other port next to the intake one which makes sense b/c its closest but I do not know what the water jacket looks like internally and am worried about blowing out the head gasket.

Do you think it would be better to blow on the opposite side (head has 3 water lines) which is the outlet side to exhaust with the hose instead of air?
The temp sensor is at the first entry point of raw water going into engine I read something about flushing from both sides several times and was going to do that this afternoon but a thunderhead won't go away.

I now know that running the flusher without the engine running could cause damage so I am hesitant with the water hose as I am not sure where the damage could occur to the engine and why it wouldn't just run straight out like it would running and understand that 60PSI off my hose would be extreme although it doesn't hurt an outboard, so what damage could occur by using water pressure instead of air so I know what not to do, is it the head gasket or exhaust or water box etc. that I cannot back feed with water pressure. Thanks.
 
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