2003 Sea-Doo GTI 717 not starting in water

I doubt it was a dealer as they won’t work on these anymore and I have little to no confidence in a mechanic working on these, even marine mechanics who aren’t familiar with them, there experience can almost be a hinderance. If you have spark and compression, the only thing left is fuel, I would order the back to OEM kit from OSD, it will come with new needle and seat and I would just order the new lever and pin in case someone was bending it trying to set pop off, which your not supposed to do. I would just have a look and see what’s written on the jets as they are probably the right ones. It’s written on them, but you will probably need a magnifying glass, I can sometimes make out the main jet markings by taking a picture and then expanding the picture, but not with the small one.
Is the 2002 kit the same as the 2003? That’s the closest one I could find on that website. Also, what markings should be on the jets. And, it was a BRP tech local here
 
Sea Doo PWC Carburetor Reference
This is a good source for you, it will have you main and pilot jet sizes as well as your spring and needle type, however when you order from Osdparts.com you won’t need to worry, all the correct parts will be included. I will take a quick look and see what I can find there.
 
Another option for $230 is a new BN40I carb from OSD or wherever. A little more expensive but it eliminates all questions. Bolt it on and go.
 
Another option for $230 is a new BN40I carb from OSD or wherever. A little more expensive but it eliminates all questions. Bolt it on and go.
I did debate that, but I had this carb completely cleaned in the ultrasonic tank and everything, so I spent just about as much cleaning it as a new carb would’ve cost now. So may as well keep it going lol.
 
I read where you said you replaced all the inline fuel stuff but I can tell you from experience they are not always good. Especially if they are not OEM. After you rebuild the carbs and do the pop off and leak test, Hopefully that solves it but if they don't run right, isolate all the inline stuff per Burtshaver's comment. Also you didn't mention what hoses you have, or I missed it, if they are the gray ones go ahead and replace them while rebuilding the carbs. If they are not gray then do a good inspection to make sure they arent bad. They will cause problems. Good luck and let us know if you have issues rebuilding them....the carb thread is really good though.
 
I had dealer do the carbs, so I’m not 100% sure on what kit they used. I will order a mikuni kit with new jets. I just replaced every single fuel like in the ski
What kind of fuel line did you use? I’ve taken clear fuel lines out of machines because I couldn’t get them to stop sucking air. The black Continental line on amazon with the Proper ratings works very well, fits snugly into the fittings. Just throwing ideas at you. Best thing you can do is start eliminating things, like bypassing the filter and fuel selector valve or pressure testing it, all free stuff to do, rather throwing money at the carbs first.
 
What kind of fuel line did you use? I’ve taken clear fuel lines out of machines because I couldn’t get them to stop sucking air. The black Continental line on amazon with the Proper ratings works very well, fits snugly into the fittings. Just throwing ideas at you. Best thing you can do is start eliminating things, like bypassing the filter and fuel selector valve or pressure testing it, all free stuff to do, rather throwing money at the carbs first.
I used black thick walled fuel line. It’s a NewLine product, I’ve always used NewLine on the heavy duty side, not sure about the smaller stuff, but I would assume it’s good stuff
 
I used black thick walled fuel line. It’s a NewLine product, I’ve always used NewLine on the heavy duty side, not sure about the smaller stuff, but I would assume it’s good stuff
Short term, the most important thing is that it’s 1/4” ID. That was the issue with some machines I got that had the cheap clear line, the iD wasn’t correct.
 
Update,

Just tested, 1 still good after getting the rotary valve dialled in, slight adjustment needed on carbs.

The other one still bogging after putting carb “back to oem” it starts instantly in the water now, so we’re getting somewhere. Almost like it’s choking for fuel or over-fuelling. Hard to tell. Not a ton of smoke, so seems like it’s choking
 
Took them out again tonight.

The one I’m having problems with, I give half choke and it runs completely 100% fine. Going to removed the fuel water separator now that i know the carb is most likely not my issue and remove the fuel selector and just have fuel straight from the tank to carb.

Any other ideas? Any input would be great
 
Having to pull the choke confirms you are lean.
Either the carbs or fuel supply.
I have the carbs set to oem spec as far as I can tell. Lean meaning to much air? I took the fuel filter and the selector switch out of the equation. So now it’s just carb tuning. The 0 setting on high speed, that is screwed to full stop correct? And I have it at 1 full turn on the low speed
 
Yes, 0 is screwed in to full stop but don’t torque on it, just lightly till it gets snug. Could be leaking from the carb base gaskets, crank seals, or fuel system could be sucking air, what kind of fiel lines do you have
 
Yes, 0 is screwed in to full stop but don’t torque on it, just lightly till it gets snug. Could be leaking from the carb base gaskets, crank seals, or fuel system could be sucking air, what kind of fiel lines do you have
Got it dialled in! Finally the chase is over! Thank you everyone for your input. Unloading the other ski off the trailer I broke the OPAS mount 🤦🏻‍♂️ found one on eBay for $50 so hopefully it’s a simple swap and align
 
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