1997 Seaoo XP Wont Start (HELP!)

[woner0012004]

I just rebuild the carburetors on my 1997 Seadoo XP and now it wont start. when i finished rebuilding the carbs I went to start the ski and with about thirty seconds of cranking it started. i had it on for about five seconds and revved it a couple of time before turning it off. everything look fine and sounded good and i was very happy. i waited a few minutes and then tried to start it again with no luck. it just cranks and cranks with an occasional loud backfire. PLEASE HELP!!

 

[AdamXP800]

Pull the plugs out whipe them off or put a new set in and try again. Maybe turn it over a few times with the plugs out too. Id try that first if you haven't already

 

[woner0012004]

I've tried pulling the plugs out and wiping dry with a rag as well as putting in a new set. I also turned the motor with the plugs out and had a lot of fuel/oil came out. every time i pull the plugs out they are wet with fuel/oil. Is this normal? is it flooded?

 

[purple_people_eater]

yes, that sounds like just a normal flooded engine. let it sit for 10-15 mins, don't touch the throttle, pull choke if need be. a properly tuned and clean carb/motor should start within 5-7 seconds cold with just the choke( unless you ran the carbs dry) and 1-4 seconds warm( no choke, maybe SLIGHT throttle.) do not run the starter for more than 10 seconds at a time, with 30 second cool down.

 

[woner0012004]

I GOT IT RUNNING! I turned the motor with the plugs out again.I also rubbed off some rust on one of the bolts in the mpeg box.I don't know what did it but I'm happy it works. Thanks or the help!

 

[woner0012004]

I GOT IT RUNNING! I turned the motor with the plugs out again.I also rubbed off some rust on one of the bolts in the mpeg box.I don't know what did it but I'm happy it works. Thanks or the help!

***UPDATE***

I took the ski out to the reservoir for a test run and it ran great for about 30 min but after that it wouldn't start. i then took the plugs out and they were very caked on with black gunk. I did add some Seafoam right before i took it out but I don't see why it would cause it to take a s***. I put in some new plugs when I got home and it fired right up but will not stay on. After continuously cranking and starting I have it running but now it idles rough..I just cleaned the fuel filter..what should i do next? Any thoughts??

Should I check the Carbs?

Change grey fuel lines?

Thanks in advance...

-Alex

 

[AdamXP800]

You have grey lines stil????? Change them ASAP

If so that Sea foam could have broke loose more of the green goo and completely stopped up your carb filters or fuel selector

 

[kicker]

Check the compression first before anything and post the results. Should be around 150 psi is ideal.

Get rid of those grey fuel lines, and clean or replace the selector switch.
If you ran fuel through the grey lines into clean carbs, you need to clean them again. I like to add an inline paper filter as well.

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[LouDoo]

I hate to tell you this, if you rebuilt the carbs. and didn't change the grey fuel lines you've done a lot of work for nothing. Change the grey fuel lines, replace the fuel control valve, remove the carbs. and at a minimum clean the carb. filters. Here's a thread on the subject. Oh and never use Seafoam in your ski, it's a solvent and will wash away the lubrication.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging

Lou

 

[woner0012004]

Check the compression first before anything and post the results. Should be around 150 psi is ideal.

Get rid of those grey fuel lines, and clean or replace the selector switch.
If you ran fuel through the grey lines into clean carbs, you need to clean them again. I like to add an inline paper filter as well.

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Compression test shows:
Front-120 Back-115

 

[Bnelson]

And there's your problem.... Low compression will cause hard starting all day long.... Sounds like it's time for a rebuild before you end up with some major damage.... And everyone above is spot on with the grey fuel lines, they gotta go!!!!!
Also before condemning the ski, is the the compression tester your using reliable? I've had cheap testers hang up around that 120 mark...

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[AdamXP800]

Could be low compression, I'd grab a new gauge and try again. Cold engine, fuel off, plugs grounded, throttle wide open. Take 3 readings use the middle

 

[woner0012004]

Could be low compression, I'd grab a new gauge and try again. Cold engine, fuel off, plugs grounded, throttle wide open. Take 3 readings use the middle

I did another test with the plug wires grounded and the throttle wide open.

Compression: Front 130. Back 125

 

[Bnelson]

Ya that is still low on the compression.... They can be very hard to start with low compression.... And being that low it's time for a rebuild up top, IMO


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[purple_people_eater]

from my experience if your compression is that low, the ski would barely run in the water. much less run well. as the others have said, new fuel lines, new plugs, make sure you've used OEM mikuni carb kits, make sure the separator isn't stopped up...

 

[Bnelson]

from my experience if your compression is that low, the ski would barely run in the water. much less run well. as the others have said, new fuel lines, new plugs, make sure you've used OEM mikuni carb kits, make sure the separator isn't stopped up...

Just as purple has said.... Check everything he has mentioned... I have seen skis run on 130 compression, but running well is another story... But then again, everyone has a different opinion of what running well means... If you know the guage is good, then 130/125 is too low... Maybe try testing the guage on another ski with known good compression.... Because running well and 130 psi don't belong in the same sentence.... So something is amiss, unless possibly u did the final bit of damage to your compression numbers as your day at the lake was winding down....


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[kicker]

Oh that sucks, hopefully its your gauge. I had that a month ago, I test all my skis before I winterize them and everything was good. Then after some routine maintenance on one I thought I would check again and it came up 120 psi. I was not happy.......until I check some other ones and they were all low too............gauge was toast.

.

 

[woner0012004]

Oh that sucks, hopefully its your gauge. I had that a month ago, I test all my skis before I winterize them and everything was good. Then after some routine maintenance on one I thought I would check again and it came up 120 psi. I was not happy.......until I check some other ones and they were all low too............gauge was toast.

.

I tested the compression on my 96 GSX and came up with 140/140, so I'm thinking the gauge is good. I will install new fuel lines ASAP and clean the carbs. I will try with a different gauge tomorow.

I just purchase these skis and am a complete newb with them..

Thanks for the help so far..

 

[Bnelson]

Trying with a different gauge would be a good idea... Also wouldn't hurt to put ur battery on a charger over night before you decide to retest compression... If you have been trying and trying to start it and done multiple tests I'm sure your battery has gone down, and they will affect your comp readings... So make sure when u retest with another guage that your battery is fully charged.


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[Mekanix]

By the way,

25 feet of 1/4 automotive low pressure line is what you need.

Get a bit extra just for good measure and replace one at a time.

Also, only use stainless steel clamps on everything!!


While you have the jug's and carbs off for a top end rebuild, don't forget to measure the rotary valve clearance.


NEVER boos the battery while connected to the ski.
Bad things happen once you go over 13.5V!

 

[woner0012004]

By the way,

25 feet of 1/4 automotive low pressure line is what you need.

Get a bit extra just for good measure and replace one at a time.

Also, only use stainless steel clamps on everything!!


While you have the jug's and carbs off for a top end rebuild, don't forget to measure the rotary valve clearance.


NEVER boos the battery while connected to the ski.
Bad things happen once you go over 13.5V!

25 feet of 1/4 sounds like a lot.. what about any other sizes?

 

[kicker]

1\4 inch is all you need. You will use most of that 25ft. You need to do all the lines, supply, return, fuel selector lines etc.

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[Mekanix]

Yeah what he said
Its not expensive for regular line.
The other lines are a little more of a specefic type for the oil.
They are tygon.

 

[Coastiejoe]

You should never add any kind of additive to two stroke engines UNLESS they are specifically designed to provide lubrication.

By adding Seafoam you do many things. One being wash the cylinders of the lubricating oil. There is a chance that you can cause permanent damage even though you were attempting to clean things. Further, your compression could be lower due to the Seafoam as it washes the oil from the rings which is what seals the cylinders and creates the actual combustion.

I'd put some oil into the cylinders and see what you get...

 

[woner0012004]

Ok... I'm having a hell of a time trying to get the hoses on the selector. Are you sure the 1/4 hose will fit? I think I need to get 5/8.. The tempo hoses that hook up to the selector has 8mm printed on them..

Btw.. The selector did have some gunk in it..