1997 Seadoo XP trouble cranking / starting - RUNS GREAT!!!

[Spezi]

Ill check if it gets hot when I get back.. taking the skis out again lol...

I have the ground going to the block now.. got sick of taking it off and on the starter each time I replaced it, no change whether or not its on the block or the starter...

The engine was replaced in this ski before.. it is a 96 engine, 97 hull...

 

[Spezi]

Well, I couldnt get it started after doing the compression testing...

I shouldve charged the battery up before taking it out.. And, yes the power wire DOES get hot... But, I was trying for like 10 minutes..

 

[pyro]

Not sure if this will help, but let me remind you what I learned.

I had the same exact issue previously and it was due to me using jumper cables with no internal battery connected. You may not be using jumper cables as you me but perhaps your problem is somehow has the same root cause:

My starter was trying to pull 160A. I calculated the resistance of the jumper cables (6AWG 8ft) and it was enough to make the voltage drop 0.9V which just isn't enough force to turn the motor over.

Any way to make shorter heavier cables?

 

[Spezi]

Not without moving the battery to the front of the jetski... And the front already likes to dive underwater due to the placement of the engine, when I am going against the tide..

If I do that, then the wires will be cut from 8 feet or so, down to like 1....

 

[Bills86e]

Remove the PTO cover and spark plugs, turn the PTO by hand. If its turns easily,
probly you need to remove the starter and load test it. If it turns hard, the drive
or pump may need service, OR the crank may be out of index. It has to be exactly
180*. The proceedure is in your manual and easy to check.
Bill

 

[Spezi]

As stated earlier in the thread.. turns easily, and one moves up, the other moves down - no lag between switching directions..

3 starters, all same issue.

 

[mudpie]

spezi, did you check the little grounds on the igntion coil?
my friend said a ski he had did this and he nutted and bolted these to the coil base instead of the self tapper into the electric box
dont know why this would chnage things with the start side, but he said it work for him.
mud

 

[Bills86e]

post 31..........crank may be twisted, and de-synchronized combustion is occuring.

 

[Spezi]

Bill - as stated in the thread, it has been checked and is fine...

Mud, the grounds actually look fine... not sure how this would change it either, since I tried jumping the solenoid straight through and it didnt get past compression...

 

[mudpie]

did you put 12 volts right to the starter lug?
did you by pass all grounds?
get a jumper battery and put + right to starter lug
put - on a clean engine ground, maybe right to starter base
make sure the metal is clean and bright
make sure you use a good heavy set of jump cables
this will by pass all cables and grounds, starts the same???
are you using rebuilt starters??? or brand new???
the ground on this boat attaches to a plate on the starter, right?
is this plate in good contact to starter body?
when you check for crank twist get front cylinder at TDC
check that rear piston comes up immediatly ,not down a bit first.
no excess fluid in combustion chambers? fuel , oil ?
possiable issuse with rotary valve timing, or its leaking between ports?
maybe this ski is just cursed !!! time to get a shaman
keep us posted and good luck
mud

 

[Spezi]

Well.. what Ive been doing lately..

I have been riding almost every day/chance that I have been getting and its been running amazing!!!

What I did was write up a spring button so to the starter solenoid to activate it..

I would press that button with my knee when I push the button on the handle bars with my hand. Starts right up..

So, I think there is an issue with a frozen relay or broken relay in the MPEM causing the start button power source to drop out......



Anyway, new issue - I wanted to flush it out, and the key no longer detects on the ski - I just replaced a segment of wire to the DESS post which was corroded, and still no luck...

The beeper also does not work, or works rarely so I cant pull codes...

Any ideas?


EDIT: Got it to beep...

1 short, 1 long.. looking it up in manual... = diagnostic mode

Sometimes when key is in, and I hit start button I get 2 short beeps - then I try to press button again its 1 long one...


2 short beeps after diagnostic mode =
MPEM can not read the digital code of the safety lanyard cap or the magnet is defective.

So since magnet might be defective, I will use an earth magnet to remagnetize

Mixed wires at the safety lanyard switch (cant be possible, I replaced 1 wire at a time...)

 

[D 5UPE]

I had one of these ski's for jumping waves. And there great, till they go wrong with age. I had a problem with starting and reading through I thought you ski was hydrolicy locking up as you wound the shaft back over and tried again.

But You said jumping it from car battery wouldn't do the trick so I thought wires from the battery worn corroded. As mine were and the wire strands that were still there were heating up. (Do your wires from the battery heat up)??

A thin wire will heat up before putting out at the starter.
I renewed mine by making some out of car jumper leads.

In your video the starter button looks well worn also, but it seems to work.

If its not the leads from the battery I would go for the hydrolic lock.
Maybe a damaged gasket on your exhaust.

 

[Spezi]

Theres no water in the cylinders though thats the thing...

I replaced all the wiring to solid copper wires from a house lol....

I just replaced the start button to a new one...

all new leads from battery to solenoid to starter.


I think it is my DESS post right now.. diagnostic mode says 2 short beeps - cant read key...

Tried using a friends key too, his cant be read either.. if dess post was working I would get 2 long ones for wrong key..

 

[Dennis]

Starter

Your starter disengaging while doing your compression test is not normal.
It should stay engaged. You are having a bendix problem or a flywheel tooth problem. Also, there are two different bendix for the 787engine. One has 8 teeth and the other has 9 teeth. A bendix with the incorrect number of teeth would also keep kicking out.
DAWG

 

[Spezi]

The main problem is it wont turn the engine over because power to the start solenoid switch gets shut off by the mpem..

So I wired up a switch... It doesnt drop out anymore unless the battery starts to get low.

Im just going to put a 13b Mazda rotary engine in this thing...

 

[robin savell lloyd]

Bill O we think that you are the true Seadoo guru. lol It sure is nice to read your teachings. socrates once quoted Employ your time in improving yourself by other men's writings so that you shall come easily by what others have labored hard for. I know that he was wise man because he also quoted this. My advice to you is get married: if you find a good wife you'll be happy; if not, you'll become a philosopher. :cheers: :rofl:

Remove the PTO cover and spark plugs, turn the PTO by hand. If its turns easily,
probly you need to remove the starter and load test it. If it turns hard, the drive
or pump may need service, OR the crank may be out of index. It has to be exactly
180*. The proceedure is in your manual and easy to check.
Bill