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1997 Seadoo GTI stall problem

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Planekiller1

Planekiller1

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I've had this ski about 5 years and this problem has sort of been around for most of them as I don't get it out much because it just upsets me. Ok the problem I'm having is that the ski start and runs just fine on land as usual lol. Sits and runs for 15minutes before I shut if down. As soon as it touches water it starts acting up it'll start idle and run for about 10 minutes then shut off then refuse to start back up no matter what I do. We took it to a guy about 2 years ago and he said someone had given us equivalent plugs but where infact cold plugs and that sort of made sense. First time like I said I don't use it much. But first time I got it in the water was Christmas Day and it ran for about 5 minutes on the trailer in the ramp then as soon as I backed up and got it around the corner to tie up it shut off and like I said refused no matter what to start up. Pulled it out and got it home started it up and ran for about 2 minutes and seemed to bog down as if it had to much fuel when I went to spool up it bogged down then it picked up and I got tired of standing around and shut it off.
Came back about 15 minutes later and it wouldn't start up. Changed the plugs to the exact same and still nothing not flooded but about perfect fuel on the plugs and the plugs do spark so it's not that.

Any help would be very much appreciated,
Thanks in advance,
Kurt
 
Check compression as well. If the compression is fine then I would rebuild the carbs and do as lou says. The compression should be at least 130 per hole but 150 per hole is perfect.
 
Are you running it 15 minutes with no water hooked up? And did you mean you ran it on the ramp out of water for 5 min then backed it in the water?



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Jetskigoodies said:
Check compression as well. If the compression is fine then I would rebuild the carbs and do as lou says. The compression should be at least 130 per hole but 150 per hole is perfect.
Click to expand...

I'm with JSG as well. A ski may run fine on the trailer with no load but in the water with a load, if it acts up, it may be losing compression and won't run correctly.

Are you hooking it to the hose when running out of the water, if yes then don't run it that way for more than a minute or two?
 
Jetskigoodies said:
Check compression as well. If the compression is fine then I would rebuild the carbs and do as lou says. The compression should be at least 130 per hole but 150 per hole is perfect.
Click to expand...

Got that checked when he found it had the wrong plugs one is 150 the other is 145.
Thanks for the assistance,
Kurt
 
So you are saying you have run it multiple times, with no water hooked up....for over 15minutes??

Holy cow. Im surprised it didnt melt down.

My best guess is you have melted the Orings that seal the head to the cylinders and as soon as you build water pressure, its getting water in the motor.

Most likely...if the problem has been happening since before you started running it way too long with no water hooked up is the Needle and seat in the carb is bad and needs replacing.

When they go bad they allow too much gas to pass through. The engine can handle it when its cold, its like running it on choke...but once the motor warms up its too much and wont start again until the engine is cold.

Typically this wont be noticable out of the water, as the motor can crank much faster out of the water and can pull more air in to pop off and start.
 
Minnetonka4me said:
So you are saying you have run it multiple times, with no water hooked up....for over 15minutes??

Holy cow. Im surprised it didnt melt down.

My best guess is you have melted the Orings that seal the head to the cylinders and as soon as you build water pressure, its getting water in the motor.

Most likely...if the problem has been happening since before you started running it way too long with no water hooked up is the Needle and seat in the carb is bad and needs replacing.

When they go bad they allow too much gas to pass through. The engine can handle it when its cold, its like running it on choke...but once the motor warms up its too much and wont start again until the engine is cold.

Typically this wont be noticable out of the water, as the motor can crank much faster out of the water and can pull more air in to pop off and start.
Click to expand...


Oh god no I only run for 10 seconds without water then 10-15 minutes with water at idle then turn off water then engine...
 
Ok well then read up on the fuel system you need to go through. Fuel lines, clean and test the fuel selector, FULLY rebuild the carb. If your fuel gauge doesnt work, fix the baffle when you have things apart.


Its needed on EVERY non fuel injected 2 stroke Seadoo from 93-01ish when they finally admitted a problem and changed the formulation of the fuel lines.
 
So Here is what happened the complete fuels lines all throughout had sand, yes sand all throughout them. Replaced all hose, pulled, drained, and cleaned the tank and filter, added inline filter and it runs like a dream, had it out today blasting around, on my way back in it ran great and then i revved up a little and the whole back had a huge vibration, so I'm thinking something in the pump or a bad bearing, either way I'll keep you up to date.
 
Put an inline filter before the carb. Look at your gas tank bottom. Some funny guy may of put a handful of sand in the tank. You never know. Punks are out there! Aluminum salts look like sand too. Water in the tank can cause problems. Ever put dry gas in to remove water? Your replacing the gas with air from the surface of water. Your going to get some water.
 
I agree with the above, except using dry gas. Drygas contains alcohol which actually attracts water, it also is a solvent which will wash away lubrication. You can use marine Stabil instead.



















Lou
 
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Wait, wait, wait!

Don't tell me you ran that thing for 15 minutes, without being in the water; period. Even if you've got the hose attached, it doesn't cool the carbon seal; meaning you could've melted the carbon seal. Check that out, and update me.
 
Carbon ring might be bad now, that was my dad running it for long periods without water, it hasn't been in the water for 5 years, so i expected them to go bad, any way have all the parts and replacing the wear ring and bearings in the impeller housing, so should be in the water soon.
 
The hose fitting is for FLUSHING the engine. The water actually flows in reverse which flushed the engine. It is NOT to cool the engine.

One minute is the max I ever run a ski on the hose. And on a 4 tec the hose water NEVER goes through the engine as it has its own closed loop system. The 4-tec is cooled by the closed loop water going through the ride plate. I know you have a 2-stroke, just wanting you to understand the cooling and flushing system better...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Do a pressure check on the fuel system. With all your work you did some connection may be sucking air. It's easier to suck air then fuel. Runs fine on trailer. Give it some load and it's a dog. Look at the filter / water separator up front. The gaskets fails to seal or cracks. Sucks air, will not let it get any RPM.
 
Running great (minus my new problem stated below), cleaned the entire fuel system and pulled tank and cleaned that, the issue was sand in everything, some tool probably dumped some in the tank or bad fuel was added at some point,
Fix: replaced all hoses, and cleaned carb and tank, filter is good as I cleaned it too.
Thanks for all the help,
-Kurt

P.S. The issue now is vibration (low rpm has a small vib. high throttle and there is no output and a horrible vib.), but as stated earlier I think its the carbon ring or the bearings in the pump so, I'm tearing down the back end just like I did on my 2005 rxt ,
Doing the pump bearings, seals, oil (what came out smelled horrible), wear ring, and also the carbon seal hopefully after this I won't have to touch it for a year.
 
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Roll the driveshaft on a flat surface like a pool cue, if it wobbles, that is most likely the real problem. That or and extremely bent prop. I have good used ones in stock if you need it.
 
Prop looked okay when I took it off and also I had driven it around for most of the day before the vid came up as it was only 50 yds from the house, as for the driveshaft I'll have a go when i pull it out.
 
Found the issue it was the Carbon ring the crappy oem SS clamp didn't hold and flew off, but hey now to the rear end is all rebuilt lol, Purring like a dream machine and its 19 years old!
 
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