1997 gtx. Tips after sitting for years?

[MendonMafia]

Hi All,

I just bought a non running 1997 gtx and am getting close to firing this thing up. Its been sitting for 4 years in the Florida sun. Anything I need to do to increase my success?

Quickly tested compression dry, 100 psi each cylinder. Plugs actually looked good but i have new ones ready if needed.

i removed the carbs, cleaned, painted, and rebuilt them. I was sure to use the old springs and levers so hopefully my pop off is good. Anyway I can test pop off without specialized tools?

Getting new fuel line tomorrow.

Drained as much gas as I could with my siphon. I cant get the oil to siphon for some reason. Oil tank is nearly full but my siphon won't make it low enough in the oil tank. Is there an oil tank drain?

Should I pour some 10w30 into the case through the carb ports and some around the pistons through the spark plug hole?

How much carb tuning should I expect? I was considering thread and gasket sealer to mount the carbs but if im going to be removing the carbs every 10 minutes to tune them I will skip that.

As of now (haven't tried starting yet) the only issue I'm having besides a ton of corrosion that mostly looks superficial (but is quite extensive), is with my reverse gate. The cable has some type of housing/seal that keeps popping out when I push it into reverse and then it gets stuck on the hull when I try to go back to forward and the gate won't lock up. Even after I realign the piece so it goes into the hull and the gate locks up, the handle wont stay pushed all the way forward. Its like something is bent and pulls the handle back a bit when you stop pushing on it.

What else should I check and fix before I try to start this thing?

 

[jts32]

First thing you need to do is test compression with another gauge. Perfect is 150psi. If it's honestly 100psi, your motor needs a rebuild. Hoping your gauge is inaccurate

 

[RockwallRick]

Your compression is too low, I am getting around 140 PSI on my 97 GSX. Maybe you should check again with a different gauge?

 

[GGuillot]

i removed the carbs, cleaned, painted, and rebuilt them. I was sure to use the old springs and levers so hopefully my pop off is good. Anyway I can test pop off without specialized tools?

You can't short cut in this area. Did you use OEM kits? new needles/seats? shoulda run you about $125 or so for both. You should check the pop off, you used the old springs, but it's hard to tell if they were changed at some point or not. A pop off tester is cheap and easy to assemble, about $20 worth of components. I bought all my parts on ebay. If you do everything to the letter on the carbs you shouldn't need to pull them off later. I'm 3rd season on my 97' GTX and haven't pulled them off since I did the build.

Set low speed needles at 1 turn out, high speed needles are not as critical, but usually 1/4 out is fine to not be too lean at WOT, you can check the plugs later and fine tune this area. I tune on RPM's, high 6700 is about all you'll get on a stock carbed 96'-97' GTX. I see about 53-54 on GPS.

Spend good time syncing the carbs and all the associated cables, throttle, oil pump. Set the slack in the throttle cable correctly, shouldn't be holding the idle. Once the idle screw touches the throttle linkage, go two full turns in, that should get you in the ball park once you start it. Set it at 3000 rpms on the trailer, should be about 1500 under load in the water.

Revisit the compression, 100 is too low. Usually faulty gauges give low readings. If you haven't already, I'd look at the jet pump, carbon seal, driveshaft, etc. The 97' had the oring holding the SS hat on the driveshaft, switch it out with a c clip. Have a look at the bailer orings when you have the pump off.

4 yrs is a long time for it to sit, you really don't know until you try to start it and get out on the water. I'd plan on the engine might need a rebuild, seals going bad and rust setting up on the bearings. People that got skis running that sat a long time with just fresh fuel and carbs, oil and a new battery have had limited success in the long run.

 

[MendonMafia]

Thanks guys! I assumed that since i did the compression test cold and dry it would be low but since both were the same it should be fine. For me it was just to know that i should be able to get it running (as long as fuel and spark are good). If its a dog thats ok for now i just want to know what im dealing with before i start fixing everything.

You can't short cut in this area. Did you use OEM kits? new needles/seats? shoulda run you about $125 or so for both. You should check the pop off, you used the old springs, but it's hard to tell if they were changed at some point or not. A pop off tester is cheap and easy to assemble, about $20 worth of components. I bought all my parts on ebay. If you do everything to the letter on the carbs you shouldn't need to pull them off later. I'm 3rd season on my 97' GTX and haven't pulled them off since I did the build.

Set low speed needles at 1 turn out, high speed needles are not as critical, but usually 1/4 out is fine to not be too lean at WOT, you can check the plugs later and fine tune this area. I tune on RPM's, high 6700 is about all you'll get on a stock carbed 96'-97' GTX. I see about 53-54 on GPS.

Spend good time syncing the carbs and all the associated cables, throttle, oil pump. Set the slack in the throttle cable correctly, shouldn't be holding the idle. Once the idle screw touches the throttle linkage, go two full turns in, that should get you in the ball park once you start it. Set it at 3000 rpms on the trailer, should be about 1500 under load in the water.

Revisit the compression, 100 is too low. Usually faulty gauges give low readings. If you haven't already, I'd look at the jet pump, carbon seal, driveshaft, etc. The 97' had the oring holding the SS hat on the driveshaft, switch it out with a c clip. Have a look at the bailer orings when you have the pump off.

4 yrs is a long time for it to sit, you really don't know until you try to start it and get out on the water. I'd plan on the engine might need a rebuild, seals going bad and rust setting up on the bearings. People that got skis running that sat a long time with just fresh fuel and carbs, oil and a new battery have had limited success in the long run.

I used a premium aftermarket kit recommended by a friend who has rebuilt the same carbs on his ski. It think its a venom or viper kit. It was about $85 for everything. Seemes every bit as good as what i pulled out anyways.

What exactly do I need for a popoff tester? Can i get the ski running if its off? What symptons will indicate the popoff is wrong?

I tuned the jet knobs according to seadoosource.com that said all the way in for high on mag side, and half rotation out for PTO, and one rotation out for both lows. Does this sound ok or should i put both highs at 1/4?

How do i know where to set the oil pump cable? I was told I should eventually delete it for the fuel and just premix the gas and oil. Will this effect the setting?

I managed to recall where the idle screw was set before.removing it and it was set exactlt as you describe! I have also adjusted the throttle as you described.

Where can i get a c clip for the drive shaft? Is there a part number for it?

This is my first ski and im not aware of where the jetpump or bailer is or what they look like. My guess is the jetpump is what pushes water out the back for propulsion and the bailer removes water from the hull? When you say to look at the orings when the pump is off, you mean the jetpump or the bailer pump?

So as far as not being able to drain the old oil is that ok? Is there a drain plug somewhere?

Any need to put oil in the crank case or cylinder bores? If so what kind?

I'll try to get a pic of the reverse cable issue but sounds like i should not worry about this for now?

Thanks again guys, sorry if my questions are stupid, im pretty good with cars but this is my first ski.

 

[GGuillot]

It think its a venom or viper kit. It was about $85 for everything.

Beware if it's not an genuine oem kit, which it's not, you could have run issues. Usually it's the diaphragms on the non oem kits that cause the problems, that and the needles/seats don't seat well and leak, which can flood the engine when it's not running.

What exactly do I need for a popoff tester? Can i get the ski running if its off? What symptons will indicate the popoff is wrong?

The pop off tester is nothing more than a schrader valve, a tee fitting and 0-60 gauge, then a piece of fuel hose connected to the input on the carb and the return blocked off. OSD Marine sells them premade iso don't need to piece one together. As far as testing, looking at the needle/seat (diaphragm out) with the cover off, you cover the needle/seat with a penetrant like WD40 and slowly apply air pressure, watching the gauge while doing so, the needle will lift off the seat when it overcomes the spring pressure and 'pop'. You note the pressure it popped at You want the dual carbs to be within 1 psi of each other. There's an acceptable range, I believe it's 23-43 on those carbs. I have a 97' GTX and a 96' GSX, both with the same carbs and engines, I get about 34-35 psi on each carb with the new springs (80 gram) and new oem needles/seats/arms.

Does this sound ok or should i put both highs at 1/4?

You can run what Seadoo recommends, but I run my skis at 1/8th on the highs, I haven't played with it much and the plugs look fine. The highs are only for the very end of the powerband at WOT, I usually don't peg it there for long anyways.

How do i know where to set the oil pump cable? I was told I should eventually delete it for the fuel and just premix the gas and oil. Will this effect the setting?

At relaxed on throttle, idle, look for the little marks on the oil pump to be lined up. That's it... Premix is a preference, I don't do it and it's really not necessary. There's a couple difference ways to disable the pump to do premix, but again, it really isn't necessary. Since it varies with the throttle, you'll use less oil in the long run. It's like 100:1 at idle and 32:1 at WOT.

Where can i get a c clip for the drive shaft? Is there a part number for it?

I don't know the part number, I searched ebay and found it. It was a running change after 97', so look for it to go on the driveshaft of almost all of the skis after then til say at least 2003. If your carbon seal and SS hat look like they need to be replaced, most of those kits include the c clip.

 

[GGuillot]

When you say to look at the orings when the pump is off, you mean the jetpump or the bailer pump?

Two lines running through the top of the hull plate, pump and nozzle. Should be grommets at the hull plate, and orings between the pump and the nozzle. Just check to make sure it's there or it won't siphon when you're moving. Check the black pickups in the bottom of the hull to be clear and the lines are secure high in the hull.

So as far as not being able to drain the old oil is that ok? Is there a drain plug somewhere?

Run the good stuff, full synthetic, no drain plug, it'll be messy but you'll need to pull the line off the back of the engine to drain completely. You'll need to remove the oil tank also to do it completely.

Any need to put oil in the crank case or cylinder bores? If so what kind?

No need if it turns fine and smooth, but use the same oil in the tank you'll be using if you want to.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Hi All,

I just bought a non running 1997 gtx and am getting close to firing this thing up. Its been sitting for 4 years in the Florida sun. Anything I need to do to increase my success?

Quickly tested compression dry, 100 psi each cylinder. Plugs actually looked good but i have new ones ready if needed.

i removed the carbs, cleaned, painted, and rebuilt them. I was sure to use the old springs and levers so hopefully my pop off is good. Anyway I can test pop off without specialized tools?

Getting new fuel line tomorrow.

Drained as much gas as I could with my siphon. I cant get the oil to siphon for some reason. Oil tank is nearly full but my siphon won't make it low enough in the oil tank. Is there an oil tank drain?

Should I pour some 10w30 into the case through the carb ports and some around the pistons through the spark plug hole?

How much carb tuning should I expect? I was considering thread and gasket sealer to mount the carbs but if im going to be removing the carbs every 10 minutes to tune them I will skip that.

As of now (haven't tried starting yet) the only issue I'm having besides a ton of corrosion that mostly looks superficial (but is quite extensive), is with my reverse gate. The cable has some type of housing/seal that keeps popping out when I push it into reverse and then it gets stuck on the hull when I try to go back to forward and the gate won't lock up. Even after I realign the piece so it goes into the hull and the gate locks up, the handle wont stay pushed all the way forward. Its like something is bent and pulls the handle back a bit when you stop pushing on it.

What else should I check and fix before I try to start this thing?

Can I ask you an inpertinent question?....HOW much did you pay for a non-running '97 GTX....I am really curious as to WHAT a machine of that vintage in a non-running state would be valued at. I know it's all a negotiation game and your confidence level (mechanically, electrically, etc) but is there a MAX price for a non-runner?

 

[MendonMafia]

Two lines running through the top of the hull plate, pump and nozzle. Should be grommets at the hull plate, and orings between the pump and the nozzle. Just check to make sure it's there or it won't siphon when you're moving. Check the black pickups in the bottom of the hull to be clear and the lines

Thank you so much for your thorough help!

Does this look right?
Not sure if this is the spot you are talking about. The pickups were flithy, probably from years of use but also from hosing out the inside and having all the filth run past. Can i blow air through these lines in reverse to be sure there is no plug in the lines?

The rivets that secure the brackets that hold the pickups down have completely rusted out. Upon inspection they do not go through the hull so im not sure how to remove the part thats in the hull.

Cant tell if i have a c clip or o ring but looks like my cs is cracked and the drive shaft is very rusted.



This housing around the flywheel that the plastic cover mounts to is also very rusted. Can i replace this?


I found this gasket in the hull today. Any idea where it goes?


This is the "seal" i was describing earlier. This is how it looks in reverse.


This is how it looks in forward after aligning it so it will slide into the hull.


This is what the lever looks like in forward. It will not go further forward without holding it down.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Oh wow, that's a salt water runner (or was)....she is pretty buggered up with corrosion.

I'm pretty sure the last 3 pics are showing me the F/N/R bucket control and that fitting in back is supposed to thread into the plate on the hull to hold that cable (restrained).....it does not just slide in, check carefully for broken threads on the "inside" of that fitting and any broken threads possibly still in the hull side. That's probably why the handle won't hold it's position......the "cable" needs to be restrained at front and REAR and the inner cable is what moves the bucket up and down.

 

[MendonMafia]

Oh wow, that's a salt water runner (or was)....she is pretty buggered up with corrosion.

I'm pretty sure the last 3 pics are showing me the F/N/R bucket control and that fitting in back is supposed to thread into the plate on the hull to hold that cable (restrained).....it does not just slide in, check carefully for broken threads on the "inside" of that fitting and any broken threads possibly still in the hull side. That's probably why the handle won't hold it's position......the "cable" needs to be restrained at front and REAR and the inner cable is what moves the bucket up and down.

I assume its spent 100% of its life in brackish and the ocean, and thats where i intend to ride it.

I cant see any threads or anything the fitting should thread into. The hex head is also not attached to the fitting so even if it were threaded, there is no way to thread it on. The inner cable does move partially but eventually the fitting pops out at which point i can clearly see into the hull around where the fitting fits into. Even with the fitting inserted the handle does not rest all the way down. The last two pictures show this situation.

Im embarrased to say i paid $300 for this
Thinking I should have paid less at this point.

 

[GGuillot]

I assume its spent 100% of its life in brackish and the ocean, and thats where i intend to ride it.

I cant see any threads or anything the fitting should thread into. The hex head is also not attached to the fitting so even if it were threaded, there is no way to thread it on. The inner cable does move partially but eventually the fitting pops out at which point i can clearly see into the hull around where the fitting fits into. Even with the fitting inserted the handle does not rest all the way down. The last two pictures show this situation.

Im embarrased to say i paid $300 for this
Thinking I should have paid less at this point.

Don't feel bad about paying $300, it's a desirable and easy ski to get right and maintain. I paid $200 for my 97' GTX, no trailer, that came out of a barn with rats that had nested in it, the motor was locked and full of water, no DESS key, no rear bucket and needed a ton of attention. After a solid yr later and more than $2K in it not included other stuff like life jackets, pump alignment tool, Candoo pro, ski slings, etc, I was on the water and enjoying it with the family. 3rd season now and going strong.

Yes, you'll need to replace that carbon seal, it's cracked and that's not something to chance. There's carbon seal kits, that include the SS hat and the c clip in the $50-$60 range.

I hate to advise this, but if it were me, based on the corrosion I'm seeing, I'd strip this ski and rebuild it back up, that motor needs a through tear down, media blasting, fresh paint, and new seals. Everything needs cleaning and re greasing, oiling, etc. That's why that cable for the rear bucket is sticking.

That driveshaft is very corroded, you need to check out the PTO flywheel and the jet pump, particularly the splines..

It's rough, but you can make it right with time, patience and money. It has sat 4 yrs in that condition as you indicated, I wouldn't be trying to start it as it is, that''s a strip down winter project and maybe get on the water next season.

 

[MendonMafia]

Don't feel bad about paying $300, it's a desirable and easy ski to get right and maintain. I paid $200 for my 97' GTX, no trailer, that came out of a barn with rats that had nested in it, the motor was locked and full of water, no DESS key, no rear bucket and needed a ton of attention. After a solid yr later and more than $2K in it not included other stuff like life jackets, pump alignment tool, Candoo pro, ski slings, etc, I was on the water and enjoying it with the family. 3rd season now and going strong.

Yes, you'll need to replace that carbon seal, it's cracked and that's not something to chance. There's carbon seal kits, that include the SS hat and the c clip in the $50-$60 range.

I hate to advise this, but if it were me, based on the corrosion I'm seeing, I'd strip this ski and rebuild it back up, that motor needs a through tear down, media blasting, fresh paint, and new seals. Everything needs cleaning and re greasing, oiling, etc. That's why that cable for the rear bucket is sticking.

That driveshaft is very corroded, you need to check out the PTO flywheel and the jet pump, particularly the splines..

It's rough, but you can make it right with time, patience and money. It has sat 4 yrs in that condition as you indicated, I wouldn't be trying to start it as it is, that''s a strip down winter project and maybe get on the water next season.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement! Mine also did not come with a trailer but i modded my pontoon trailer for the ski. Cost about $150 for the parts to mod it. It did come with a winch and most of the other lift parts though.

I took a wire brush to the drive shaft (after posting the last photo) and it isnt actually that corroded. I think it was rust from the motor support bracket mixed with grease, as it came off pretty easy. The flywheel is definately rusty in the spots where the paint chipped off but the motor support bracket is much worse.

How difficult is it to replace the motor support bracket?

FYI when I did my compression test i only turned the engine over the minimum amount so there wasn't much time to build pressure. I didn't want to spin the engine much with unknown oil condition, etc. The previous owner is my neighbor and he mentioned it ran fine last time he rode it and a stuck throttle precluded him from riding it the next time after that. I just wanted to test the compression to verify there was some and that it wasn't frozen.

I know you dont recommend it but Im going to try starting it tomorrow. At this point im wondering how to prime the carbs. Mine has a primer instead of choke but its just gas, not premix. Is it ok to prime with just gas? Is it safe to start with the drive shaft cover off?

If it starts, Im going to fix everything with the drive line before putting it in the water. otherwise i think ill just sell it. Worst case i throw a rod and need a new engine. I'd rather get some use out of it before rebuilding it if it will work. I live in florida so its always riding season. This way i can get all my preferials setup and buy a second ski to ride while im overhauling this one. As long as i can keep the total under 2k i think I'll have done good since that's what the cheaper used ones sell for around here.

 

[MendonMafia]

Tried to start it today but no dice it appears there is no spark. I tested this by pulling the spark plugs from both cylinders. Using a new plug and grounding it to where it screws in the cylinder head using a wire and cranking the engine. I tested both plug wires individualy and nothing on either of them.

The plugs i pulled were very oily after cranking the engine over for about 30 seconds trying to start it.

Since the plugs were oily i tested the compression again today with much longer cranks until the gauge peaked. 110 psi front cylinder, 130 psi rear cylinder.

So it seems i will need a rebuild but i want to fix the spark and plug fouling before going that route and see if i cant get it started still. Afterall i will need to have a good electrical and fuel/oil system for the rebuilt engine.

 

[GGuillot]

Tried to start it today but no dice it appears there is no spark. I tested this by pulling the spark plugs from both cylinders. Using a new plug and grounding it to where it screws in the cylinder head using a wire and cranking the engine. I tested both plug wires individualy and nothing on either of them.

Sometimes corrosion messes with the spark plug connections coming from the coil, and judging from your ski that likely could be the case. On each each end, spark plug boot and at the coil, remove the plug wires and trim back 1/4" and reconnect. Check all the connections inside the rear ebox where the coil is, again, you may have corroded grounds effecting the coil.

Since the plugs were oily i tested the compression again today with much longer cranks until the gauge peaked. 110 psi front cylinder, 130 psi rear cylinder.

Yeah, it might not run at those compression numbers. Don't let it discourage you. You can pull the engine and do a rebuild. Basically there's people that sell top end kits online to core swap the jugs and install a new machined set ready to go. Same for the crankshaft and balance shaft, which is advised you do while you're at it, and in your case since it sat awhile, it's likely needing attention. When they sit for extended periods, rust sets in on the bearings.

Basically factor in a complete rebuild, gasket set, cylinder top end, crankshaft, etc. ~$1000.

You have people on here to help guild you when you do the rebuild, it's not to difficult.

 

[MendonMafia]

Sometimes corrosion messes with the spark plug connections coming from the coil, and judging from your ski that likely could be the case. On each each end, spark plug boot and at the coil, remove the plug wires and trim back 1/4" and reconnect. Check all the connections inside the rear ebox where the coil is, again, you may have corroded grounds effecting the coil.



Yeah, it might not run at those compression numbers. Don't let it discourage you. You can pull the engine and do a rebuild. Basically there's people that sell top end kits online to core swap the jugs and install a new machined set ready to go. Same for the crankshaft and balance shaft, which is advised you do while you're at it, and in your case since it sat awhile, it's likely needing attention. When they sit for extended periods, rust sets in on the bearings.

Basically factor in a complete rebuild, gasket set, cylinder top end, crankshaft, etc. ~$1000.

You have people on here to help guild you when you do the rebuild, it's not to difficult.

I'll trim them back today. Is it worth it to just get a prebuilt rebuild with my core exchange off ebay? Im worried my engine is too corroded to be considered and then I'll have wasted some money shipping it backand forth.

I would really like to rebuild it myself and give the entire engine and everything metal a coat of POR 15, but the machine work is probably going to make it pricey compared to just doing a core exchange, assuming my core will be acceptable.

Side question. Are the mounts in the back supposed to allow the engine to shake/rock? I noticed it was rocking some when turning it over and that i could rock it by hand as well.

 

[GGuillot]

Is it worth it to just get a prebuilt rebuild with my core exchange off ebay? Im worried my engine is too corroded to be considered and then I'll have wasted some money shipping it backand forth

Depends, some people do engine core exchanges with SBT and be done with it, you'd need to call them to find out if your motor is acceptable, they'll go over shipping charges, core policy, etc.

If you have access or know someone, you could media blast the cases and all the pieces, then prime and paint. I did this on both of my engines, then I core swapped the components, like the crankshaft and the balance shaft.. I had a separate vendor do the cylinders. There's people on ebay that have top end kits ready to go, cylinders prefit with the pistons, you send the old cylinders back in afterward.

You have options either way.

Side question. Are the mounts in the back supposed to allow the engine to shake/rock? I noticed it was rocking some when turning it over and that i could rock it by hand as well.

No, it shouldn't move much at all.

 

[MendonMafia]

Depends, some people do engine core exchanges with SBT and be done with it, you'd need to call them to find out if your motor is acceptable, they'll go over shipping charges, core policy, etc.

If you have access or know someone, you could media blast the cases and all the pieces, then prime and paint. I did this on both of my engines, then I core swapped the components, like the crankshaft and the balance shaft.. I had a separate vendor do the cylinders. There's people on ebay that have top end kits ready to go, cylinders prefit with the pistons, you send the old cylinders back in afterward.

You have options either way.




No, it shouldn't move much at all.

I mean its tough to rock but it does rock. Its certainly not directly fixed to the hull unless there is some type of mount that allows for some movement.

But she lives! thanks for all your help!

Got it fired up today and it sounds pretty good

Exhaust was really smokey but at least its running. Gotta get a tach to see where the idle is at but it seems a bit high.

Gonna replace the carbon seal next and then get it in the water and test it out.

 

[GGuillot]

Exhaust was really smokey but at least its running. Gotta get a tach to see where the idle is at but it seems a bit high.

Tach gauge on the ski isn't working? You have a tach selection on the info gauge also. 3K rpm out the water is norm, it should drop to about 1500 rpm under load in the water.

 

[MendonMafia]

Tach gauge on the ski isn't working? You have a tach selection on the info gauge also. 3K rpm out the water is norm, it should drop to about 1500 rpm under load in the water.

My display is impossible to read. Uv damaged i suppose. Probably will try to fix it now that you mention it. I didn't know it had a tach

 

[Major Woody]

If you have not rebuilt the fuel system and fully tested the oil injection system, you may kill that engine testing it out. Why not go on down to the auto parts store, borrow a quality tester and see what your compression really is? Everything else can be dealt with, but if the engine needs a rebuild and it has all that corrosion, you are going to be chasing issue after issue regardless of whether you get a rebuilt engine or not.

 

[MendonMafia]

If you have not rebuilt the fuel system and fully tested the oil injection system, you may kill that engine testing it out. Why not go on down to the auto parts store, borrow a quality tester and see what your compression really is? Everything else can be dealt with, but if the engine needs a rebuild and it has all that corrosion, you are going to be chasing issue after issue regardless of whether you get a rebuilt engine or not.

Thanks for the insight. As far as I can tell all the corrosion is cosmetic. I have a good compression tester. 110 psi front 135 psi rear. I ran it to peak after I noticed how oily the plugs were after cranking it over for a few min. Having a bad oil or fuel system is exactly why I want to hold off on rebuilding. I would hate to ruin a new rebuild because of an unknown problem.

The previous owner replaced all the fuel lines (no grey lines anywhere) and I replaced the lines associated with the carbs when I rebuilt them. The fact I was able to get it started and the plugs were oily tells me its getting both but how can I test the fuel and oil system fully?

I'm going to try restore in the plug holes and oil reservoir and see if it helps with compression. It did wonders in a few of my cars, generator, and chain saw. I know it's not designed for 2 stokes but I read that some people did what I mentioned and had positive results. Worst case scenario, it clogs something and I burn up an engine that already needs a rebuild but I'm pretty sure that wont happen. Maybe a fouled plug though.

Since my last post. I fixed my reverse lever not lowering all the way when in forward. This was caused by a bent reverse cable at the lever end. I removed the drive shaft (what a pain!) and have orderd a replacement, mine had some pitting under that hat that seemed like it could leak.

Next is to remove the clutch/flywheel and coat it in POR-15. Then replace the rear motor mounts and engine mount plate. Followed by aligning the engine, installing the new carbon seal, and a new reverse cable lock nut and seal (went with aluminum since the old plastic one broke).

The only thing holding me back from getting in the water after that is the bailer spring clips. My rivets broke and the remains are stuck in the hull and I'm not sure how to get them out to put new rivets in.

 

[GGuillot]

Next is to remove the clutch/flywheel and coat it in POR-15.

You're gonna have a time trying to get that PTO flywheel off, they're on tighter than shit, the force you need to get it off will/could twist the crankshaft creating more problems for you.

I'd save that effort for when you do a full rebuild, which I predict you'll need to do sooner than later.

 

[MendonMafia]

You're gonna have a time trying to get that PTO flywheel off, they're on tighter than shit, the force you need to get it off will/could twist the crankshaft creating more problems for you.

I'd save that effort for when you do a full rebuild, which I predict you'll need to do sooner than later.

I need to replace my rear mount plate. It's super corroded. I have an impact wrench and a breaker bar extension. Might need a longer extension but I should be able to get one. If I can't get it I can't get it but I will try with what I have.

Is it always recommended to get a new crank when doing a rebuild?

 

[GGuillot]

I need to replace my rear mount plate. It's super corroded. I have an impact wrench and a breaker bar extension. Might need a longer extension but I should be able to get one. If I can't get it I can't get it but I will try with what I have.

Is it always recommended to get a new crank when doing a rebuild?

To give you an idea how tight, you'll easily bend or break 1/2" tools. An impact won't budge it either, actually does nothing more than just tear up the splines, so I wouldn't recommend it. The 2 engine rebuilds I did for my skis each time required me to hold the crankshaft in a massive floor vice, using a 3/4" breaker bar impact reinforced tools and a 5 foot cheater bar to get enough leverage. I had couple people on the shop floor convinced I was turning it the wrong way until it popped loose.

I did my rebuilds getting new reman cranks, some people get by not replacing it, but the bearings do start to get noisy and the inner crank seals go bad, so while you got it out why not replace it. It's about $300 from SBT to get another crankshaft.