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1997 GTX off season rebuild start.

You don’t want forged in these because the cooling water never heats up so machining clearances have to be more and long warm ups. Best quality pistons are OEM then Pro-X and verified by Harry. Harry sells Pro-X.
For break in I have been following group k recommended procedure for decades.

Oil is the oil you will keep in the ski. So for me XPS full synthetic and an additional 50:1 premix in only the first tank of fuel.

Break in is all about heat cycling and varying throttle.
First half tank run no more than 1/4 throttle but get it up on plane then back off to 1/4 and very the throttle the entire time. Never hold throttle in one position. Run 15 minutes then let cool 15 minutes.
Next half tank is same procedure but up to 1/2 throttle.
Refill tank with straight gas.
Half tank same procedure but up to 3/4 throttle.
Last half of the second tank you can go full throttle but don’t hold it wide open for more than a few seconds.

You are done with break-in. Enjoy your ski.
 
Just run the oil pump at close to 1500 rpm and make sure oil is coming out of it.
I honestly don't worry about them. In 35 years of working on these and tens of thousands of threads here I think I only ever heard of 1, that is one, ever failing.
Test bench "almost" completed. Going to use a combination of ml syringes & sensitive scales to help validate @ 1,500 rpm for 30 sec. Output on single hose then the next hose. Moving forward on rpms up to 7,000 rpm & measure amount within 30 sec. Then after that, various "out of the box" experiments.
It's all in the details & I must know.
Yea, I have issues.......IMG_3951.JPGIMG_3952.JPG
 
Test bench "almost" completed. Going to use a combination of ml syringes & sensitive scales to help validate @ 1,500 rpm for 30 sec. Output on single hose then the next hose. Moving forward on rpms up to 7,000 rpm & measure amount within 30 sec. Then after that, various "out of the box" experiments.
It's all in the details & I must know.
Yea, I have issues.......View attachment 68680View attachment 68681
Dang.... you just graduated to the most ANAL guy I've seen on the forum. :) That ain't a bad thing. LOL
 
Dang man, that is some guru stuff. Nice work.
Honestly I have never tested one. If oil comes out when spinning they have been good to go. Never personally seen one faol, ever.
 
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Dang man, that is some guru stuff.
Honestly I have never tested one. If oil comes out when spinning they have been good to go. Never personally seen one faol, ever.
There is one aspect of the oil circuit that I would like to explore besides the fundamentals. Want to "connect the dots" to see if what I know about hyd circuits can crossover to the oil circuit. Hydraulic static pressure, is the pressure exerted by a fluid at rest due to the weight of the fluid above a specific point.(this can be a long story on theory so I'll keep it short) Simply put, is oil amount delivered change as the oil tank level decreases?Must take into account that rise in the line as it terminates onto the pump. Instead of ounces, shall use weight of oil in tank.
Is supply to pump determined solely by atmospheric/weight pressure to keep pump supplied or does the pump exert, (beyond atmospheric/weight) a sustaining suction/vacuum so as to draw fluid in. Reason why I ask is that on those all day excursions to the islands & beyond I would like to know if running tank low(not critical low) @ low rpm( little above idle) so as to explore coves, up/down river or troll.
That's one aspect I wish to find out during this bench test.
Sure, I could bring spare oil to solve that dilemma or that single malt scotch for the island camping & create a dilemma.
See what happens when you have too much time on your hands.🤪
 
Well, pressure is 1 psi per 2.31 feet so the ol tank is about 5" deep and that is less than 0.25 psi so no. Also it is a volume based system so it should provide the same amount of oil at a full tank or a low tank. It is a gravity fed and also an open discharge pump so outlet/inlet pressure really isn't an issue.

It will be interesting on what you find though. But in the real world your engine will have no issues with a low tank oil level as opposed to full, unless you run out.

Sitting here with nothing to do so let's get crazy....

Flows are calculated in gpm and psi
787 fuel consumption 11 gallons per hour at full throttle = 0.18 gpm
Oil consumption is average 40:1. 0.18 / 40 = 0.0045 gpm of oil
Atmospheric pressure 14.7 psi but inlet and outlet pressure are the same so that is nominal. Hydraulic head pressure is only about 12" so let's call it 0.5 psi.
3/32" oil injection line per cylinder for about 18", but that delivers 50% of the oil so we would have to look at the friction losses of two hoses.
Hydraulic friction loss is 0.0008 psi.
So you are still gaining pressure at the oil injection outlet at the intake manifold just from gravity, 0.4 psi with a full oil tank and 0.3 psi with an empty oil tank with the pipe friction and the oil tank location above the engine.

I think your findings will be interesting.
1. Does rpm change the output volume or just the lever.
2. What pressure does the pump need to make to overcome the check valves?
3. Does the intake vacuum of the engine change the flow?
 
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Well, pressure is 1 psi per 2.31 feet so the ol tank is about 5" deep and that is less than 0.25 psi so no. Also it is a volume based system so it should provide the same amount of oil at a full tank or a low tank. It is a gravity fed and also an open discharge pump so outlet/inlet pressure really isn't an issue.

It will be interesting on what you find though. But in the real world your engine will have no issues with a low tank oil level as opposed to full, unless you run out.

Sitting here with nothing to do so let's get crazy....

Flows are calculated in gpm and psi
787 fuel consumption 11 gallons per hour at full throttle = 0.18 gpm
Oil consumption is average 40:1. 0.18 / 40 = 0.0045 gpm of oil
Atmospheric pressure 14.7 psi but inlet and outlet pressure are the same so that is nominal. Hydraulic head pressure is only about 12" so let's call it 0.5 psi.
3/32" oil injection line per cylinder for about 18", but that delivers 50% of the oil so we would have to look at the friction losses of two hoses.
Hydraulic friction loss is 0.0008 psi.
So you are still gaining pressure at the oil injection outlet at the intake manifold just from gravity, 0.4 psi with a full oil tank and 0.3 psi with an empty oil tank with the pipe friction and the oil tank location above the engine.

I think your findings will be interesting.
1. Does rpm change the output volume or just the lever.
2. What pressure does the pump need to make to overcome the check valves?
3. Does the intake vacuum of the engine change the f

Well, pressure is 1 psi per 2.31 feet so the ol tank is about 5" deep and that is less than 0.25 psi so no. Also it is a volume based system so it should provide the same amount of oil at a full tank or a low tank. It is a gravity fed and also an open discharge pump so outlet/inlet pressure really isn't an issue.

It will be interesting on what you find though. But in the real world your engine will have no issues with a low tank oil level as opposed to full, unless you run out.

Sitting here with nothing to do so let's get crazy....

Flows are calculated in gpm and psi
787 fuel consumption 11 gallons per hour at full throttle = 0.18 gpm
Oil consumption is average 40:1. 0.18 / 40 = 0.0045 gpm of oil
Atmospheric pressure 14.7 psi but inlet and outlet pressure are the same so that is nominal. Hydraulic head pressure is only about 12" so let's call it 0.5 psi.
3/32" oil injection line per cylinder for about 18", but that delivers 50% of the oil so we would have to look at the friction losses of two hoses.
Hydraulic friction loss is 0.0008 psi.
So you are still gaining pressure at the oil injection outlet at the intake manifold just from gravity, 0.4 psi with a full oil tank and 0.3 psi with an empty oil tank with the pipe friction and the oil tank location above the engine.

I think your findings will be interesting.
1. Does rpm change the output volume or just the lever.
2. What pressure does the pump need to make to overcome the check valves?
3. Does the intake vacuum of the engine change the flow?
Outstanding info. And this is why I chose to contribute. Nothing like "picking the brain" of an experienced PWC enthusiast that "been around the block" a time or two.
You may or may not have already seen this vid but I found it very informative.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi_BOVtUAWg&list=WL&index=5&t=351s
 
Way too much time on my hands.
Yeah, still waiting on the oil.....View attachment 68730View attachment 68731
Had a PWC enthusiast ask a valid question so I'm going to copy & paste my reply so as to take it a little bit further..

"Remove top of pump & place depth gauge on the piston & rotate until TDC & BDC, note degrees & measurement.
Considering attaching carbs to plate, attaching cable from carb(s) to oil pump, "guessing" what throttle position @ idle with WOT position being no mystery & incrementally noting degree(s) in relation to oil piston height & throttle position. One of the "starting points" will be "just before" recommended line mark, take notes,> "reset" & then starting again @ line alignment going from idle position to WOT all the while noting actual oil delivery>connecting the dots.
Sort of a big production, "sort of" but I've done similar(s) in the past of my career( now retired) so I have somewhat of a "comfort level" in this endeavor, or not...Hell, I could catch the shop on fire for all I know."

So, what do you guys think?
Conversation with the Fire Marshall?
Couple of hours in the ER? Stiches maybe?
Crossing swords with the insurance company?
Or am I just unable to defer gratification in my endeavor of "I just gotta know".
 
Had a PWC enthusiast ask a valid question so I'm going to copy & paste my reply so as to take it a little bit further..

"Remove top of pump & place depth gauge on the piston & rotate until TDC & BDC, note degrees & measurement.
Considering attaching carbs to plate, attaching cable from carb(s) to oil pump, "guessing" what throttle position @ idle with WOT position being no mystery & incrementally noting degree(s) in relation to oil piston height & throttle position. One of the "starting points" will be "just before" recommended line mark, take notes,> "reset" & then starting again @ line alignment going from idle position to WOT all the while noting actual oil delivery>connecting the dots.
Sort of a big production, "sort of" but I've done similar(s) in the past of my career( now retired) so I have somewhat of a "comfort level" in this endeavor, or not...Hell, I could catch the shop on fire for all I know."

So, what do you guys think?
Conversation with the Fire Marshall?
Couple of hours in the ER? Stiches maybe?
Crossing swords with the insurance company?
Or am I just unable to defer gratification in my endeavor of "I just gotta know".

Both throttle plates closed, carb linkage synchronized oil pump/linkage plate marks lined up. But I have a couple of disconnects going on. Search & YT doesn't clarify.
*Idle screw is just above contact. All things being "perfect", about how many turns into contact would put the engine around 1,500 rpm?
*Is oil pump alignment done @ throttle plates closed or @ 1,500 rpm?
IMG_3965.JPG

Also considering putting a degree wheel on the throttle linkage plate.
 
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