1997 GSX Won't Start in Water

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sgibson

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Hi All,

I am wondering if anyone has had this issue before please watch the videos follow the links below. Please help me if you have figured out what causes this issue!

Links:

Some background information: The jet ski will start fine on the trailer and will idle, occasionally sometimes it will die on its own while on the trailer. While out on the lake it gets its random spirts, it will start fine but when you try to get it to full throttle it will either bog down or die, then it won't start at all sometimes or it does.

The guy before me, rebuilt the carbs, I went through them and they seem fine. He also put in a new start/stop switch which also seems to be fine. I have put in new fuel lines to replace the grey crappy ones. I have put in a new DESS post and got 2 new keys programmed to the new DESS post. I have replaced the gauges with new-used gauges. I have redone the seat and put in a new head cushion.
 
I forgot to mention I have replaced the battery as well with a Duracell ultra that has 442 cranking amps.
 
That looks to me like it is not getting enough voltage from the battery. Have you load tested the battery. Check all connections on battery cables both ends.
 
I'll check those, the concern I do have just by seeing it in the ski is the positive lead there is some bare wire exposed before the terminal.

I know the positive lead goes into the starter box, where does the ground go do you know?
 
I have not done a load test on the battery but it is a brand new battery I got it yesterday. I would think that would be fine right?
 
Sounds like a bad cable from your description of the cable.

The negative cale goes directly from the battery to the underside of the starter.
 
Here's an update,

Although the wiring looks very ugly it did check out and seem to be fine except for the one photo where I pointed out the ground issue on the ignition coil. Is there supposed to be another wire on the end of the ignition coil?

I followed this video to do my wiring test:
Although different model I got the gist of it.

Also noticed I could easily take out the engine temperature wire is it supposed to be like this?

Sorry, I am new to this do not know all the ins and outs yet.

Could it be the starter? The starter relay seems to be fine as well.

Thank you for the help!
 

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The ground connections are corroded and should be cleaned. Only one side of the coil needs to be grounded.

The temp sensor wire is damaged and has pulled out of its connector crimping.
 
Okay, should I also do an ohm reading on the wires to see if I am getting a lot of ohms? On every single one of them going into the and out of the starter box?

Like this link:

Okay, I will clean those wires. Could that have been part of the issue?
I will re-do the temp sensor, but would that cause a starting problem?

Do you think it could be the starter?
 
Going back to your original post, "the guy before me rebuilt the carbs"....did he use OEM Mikuni kits? If not...that is usually a source of continuous frustrations.....clean up all the wiring connections....see attached for some additional guidance....
 

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The guy said he did use the OEM kits for the carbs. When I pulled them off and looked into them they were pretty clean and looked like the brand new parts as well. I’ll redo the wiring this weekend and give an update for it I’ll follow the guides you posted.

Thank you for your help!
 
The guy said he did use the OEM kits for the carbs. When I pulled them off and looked into them they were pretty clean and looked like the brand new parts as well. I’ll redo the wiring this weekend and give an update for it I’ll follow the guides you posted.

Thank you for your help!
Not for nothing...BUT there are OEM carb kits and genuine OEM MIKUNI kits. They are almost identical...but almost only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades.....looking at the carb parts (unless you know what you are looking for won't give them away....the Mikuni diaphragms have a RED button that pushes on the needle spring, other OEM kits don't (first giveaway)....plus you don't know if he used the right springs, correct needles and seats ( OR if they were changed).....did he fiddle with the High/Low speed screws?

I used SBT OEM carb kits, ski started, ran fine on the trailer....but the ski fell flat on its face in the water though. Re-did everything with Mikuni carb kits....much JOY! The ski came back with a vengeance.

Solve your electric issues...then tackle the carbs.....IMHO!
 
The diaphragms did have a red button on them. He did mess with the screws but when I took the carbs off I readjusted them to the manual spec and have adjusted the idle screw to make it to 3000 rpms while on the trailer. So would the starter be the next thing to fix, if its not the wiring or are you guys pretty sure its the wiring?

Yeah, that's my plan is to tune the carbs once I can figure out this weird situation in the water.
 
Before going to starter, I would load test the battery. I know you said it was new, but we have heard this from others here and the new battery was the issue. I’m not saying that is going to be the case here, but it is a very easy test.
 
I had it load tested when I got it. That’s how I got the 442 cranking amps number. What happened was I went in with the old battery and had them load test it, and it was only giving 150 cranking amps this new one the Duracell ultra gave 442 cranking amps under the same load.
 
I am asking about the starter because I am wondering if it would be smart to get one on order based on what you guys think or wait until I redo the wiring first then if it’s not that my next guess would be the starter right? Correct me if I’m wrong, I am new to this so I do not know a whole lot on what to do after wiring.
 
I am asking about the starter because I am wondering if it would be smart to get one on order based on what you guys think or wait until I redo the wiring first then if it’s not that my next guess would be the starter right? Correct me if I’m wrong, I am new to this so I do not know a whole lot on what to do after wiring.
have autozone test it for you if you want to make sure its good.
 
Oh I didn’t even know they did that! That’s a good idea okay I’ll take out the starter tomorrow and head up there with it. Thanks for the info. I will also be doing the wiring this weekend.
 
Oh I didn’t even know they did that! That’s a good idea okay I’ll take out the starter tomorrow and head up there with it. Thanks for the info. I will also be doing the wiring this weekend.
Yes they test batteries and starters in the same machine used to do a load test on your duracell. They should be able to pull the PN from your starter and be able to do the test.
 
Yes they test batteries and starters in the same machine used to do a load test on your duracell. They should be able to pull the PN from your starter and be able to do the test.

Ah, that makes sense because it needs to be able to take a high amount of cranking amps or whatever is specified to the PN in order to turnover.
 
Do you happen to know what's the amount of amps a starter can take? Is it in the manual? I'll look for it right now.
 
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