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1996 seadoo xp is hard to start
- Thread starter Devon2929
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
I guess we need to know some more background. What is the compression? Carbs and fuel system rebuilt? has it always done it or is this new? New/strong battery? Plugs? Checked all the ground wires/cables? Let us know some of these and I am sure someone can guide you to the finish line.
Hey Devon - it could be a lot of things. Follow [MENTION=69521]soccerdad[/MENTION] 's advice to start. You also need to check for crankshaft deflection (post if you need the procedure) and the condition of your electrical system. Do you have a spark tester and/or a VOM? 10 bucks at Harbor Freight for a spark tester. Based on what you describe, my money is on electrical (most likely coil, stator, MPEM, ground fault) or crankshaft deflection. If its electrical, and AC has leaked from the stator/rectifier into the DC bus, replacing parts will do nothing more than eat up your cash. If you happen to to have access to an oscilloscope, I can walk you through some procedures that might help.
Best of luck!
Cheers,
Ben
Best of luck!
Cheers,
Ben
Strizzo
Well-Known Member
is the issue on cold start, or after you've been riding for a while and then stop for a bit? if it is on cold start, if the carbs are set up correctly, you should need to use the choke to get it started when cold. if you're talking about after riding for a bit and then stopping for a few, it could be as simple as worn out needles and seats in the carbs leaking a little fuel after shutdown.
Yup need much more info before I can try to help.
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Really? Crankshaft deflection. That is a pretty bold to start him chasing down this problem by checking crankshaft deflection. Just saying that isnt a common Seadoo problem that i have heard. Im guessing something much simpler, or at least we can walk him through the easy stuff first.
LOL I was kind of thinking the same thing...but at this point were just throwing chit at the wall until we get more info.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
I would start by unscrewing the spark plug caps and clipping the plug wires back about 1/4 inch. That will renew the connection.
If that doesn't do it, I would get a compression test 145 - 150psi per hole. Hold the throttle wide open while cranking.
If compression is good then make sure it is getting fuel - wet plugs. Next pull the carbs and perform a pop off/leak down test to see if those 18yr old needles and seats are holding. (hint)
If that doesn't do it, I would get a compression test 145 - 150psi per hole. Hold the throttle wide open while cranking.
If compression is good then make sure it is getting fuel - wet plugs. Next pull the carbs and perform a pop off/leak down test to see if those 18yr old needles and seats are holding. (hint)
is 130 psi compression bad? that's what I got last time I tried it but didn't screw the compression tester all the way in tightly. and a while ago before summer I cut the wires back and that helped the problem it seemed like but at mid summer same thing started again with it hard to start.. it runs so well after I get it started so could it need a freshened top end or should I attempt and do plug wire and coil?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
If it runs well after it starts than it isn't compression. The opposite would be true. You most likely have a fuel issue. If you hold the throttle all the way open without choke and it starts easier than you need to rebuild the carbs. 130 is still okay but it is at the end of its life. I would get another compression tester and double check it.
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Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Needles and seats and do a pop off test. Did you change the springs out when you rebuilt the carbs?
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
Do you mean the motor filled with fuel? It was hydrolocked with fuel. I would check the pop off on the carbs. It probably just needs new needles and seats and the pop off to be set.
WonderDawg
New Member
I would suggest that you check the lug connection on the ignition CDI. The spark plugs are connected to this device and they nuts can come lose just do to the vibration in general. Anyway if the nuts are loose or really rusty, then the poor connections or increased impedance can cause this problem to occur.
Good Luck,
WD
Good Luck,
WD
Jetskigoodies
Well-Known Member
You could try that, check the coil with a multimeter. A quick way to see if it s getting spark is
$5 from harbor freight.
I still bet it is fuel related. When he rebuilt the carbs, did he use mikuni parts and the springs will make a difference as well.
$5 from harbor freight.
I still bet it is fuel related. When he rebuilt the carbs, did he use mikuni parts and the springs will make a difference as well.
Here's the EXACT reason why I change them regardless of if they pass a pop off or not. They aren't that expensive and I don't want to do things twice.
Also as jsg brought up if they have aftermarket kits put in them they are known for causing leaky needles and seats and just aren't worth saving 10-20 dollars.
Typically if an engine is full of gas though, something is really wrong. That is not common.
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Also as jsg brought up if they have aftermarket kits put in them they are known for causing leaky needles and seats and just aren't worth saving 10-20 dollars.
Typically if an engine is full of gas though, something is really wrong. That is not common.
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
All old skis tend to have corrosion on the terminals in the coil box. Even if that is not your current problem, you should really clean these now before they give you other problems. You will see that there are a bunch of ground wire rings under a screw. Remove the screw and clean all the rings. Then coat with dielectic grease and put it back together. It is even better if you get a stainless steel screw and nut and replace the self tapping screw with a screw that goes through the plastic case. This ensures it is held tight forever. Also, check all the other connections and plugs. Especially the connector that goes into the side of the motor and the one at the top of the coil box.
I also think you problem is a fuel problem. I understand your hesitation to opening up the carbs. Sounds like you did not do them yourself so if you have someone else do it, it will be more money. BUT, a flooded motor like that really sounds like a carb (needle and seat, or bad carb kit) issue.
I also think you problem is a fuel problem. I understand your hesitation to opening up the carbs. Sounds like you did not do them yourself so if you have someone else do it, it will be more money. BUT, a flooded motor like that really sounds like a carb (needle and seat, or bad carb kit) issue.
The problem I have with this scenerio is it filled the motor with gas...just once? you got it out and it didnt do it again?
It should never do it...no matter what. Thats how these type of carbs work.
I personally would pull the carbs apart again and see whats going on in there.
They do not work like a float type carb. They need pressure to open up. I never shut off my fuel valve...ever.
I personally would pull the carbs apart again and see whats going on in there.
They do not work like a float type carb. They need pressure to open up. I never shut off my fuel valve...ever.
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