1996 Seadoo GTX 787 - No Spark

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Hi All,

My 1996 Seadoo GTX 787 has no spark at the spark plugs. I hit a large wake and yanked the lanyard from the craft. Since then there has been no spark at the plugs.

I have two lanyards so I do not think it is a lanyard issue.

I have swapped CDIs with no luck. Should I purchase an ignition coil and test? The current coil test fine according to the manual ohm test.

I'm thinking that it is the pickup coil in the mag house but don't want to open it up. Is there a test to see if the pickup coil broken its mount in the magneto housing?

Everyone has been really helpful on here. Thank you!
 
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Have you checked all your ground connections? I think your probably right on the pick up coil though, my buddy recently busted his jumping a wave.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
There are 3 yellow wires coming out of the plug on the front of the engine. Each wire should test about 0.8 ohms between each other. This tells you that the stator is good. The other two wires go to the pick up coil. If I remember correctly you can crank the engine over with a volt meter attached to those two wires the voltage should spike every time one of the bumps on the mag cup passes the pick up coil during rotation. If no voltage then you know the pick up coil is bad.

Hope that is correct. If not someone will surely chime in.
 
I believe you need to touch the white wire while cranking. Problem is if the bracket that holds the coil broke it will still test fine.

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I have touched the white wire while cranking and got a low AC voltage. I believe it was around 0.4 but not sure. It's been a while since I last looked at it.
 
If you got a reading then the coil itself is working. I would pull the mag cover and take a look.

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So I opened the magneto cover after about 2 hours of fighting with it. I have found the problem!

Now I just need to figure out how to go about fixing the broken trigger coil, trigger coil bracket and need to see if there is more things wrong in the cover.

Below is a link for a few pictures from today.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ruvzgsyy0tf7d0j/AABUBKjgtp9hkxkCvcRTTqpMa?dl=0

The oil lines are still attached to the cover. There is a tonnnn of oil inside the magneto cover. Is this normal? Also, one of the wires on the trigger coil is broken, as well as the bracket. Picture three is all the metal pieces I have so far found lose in the cover. The right most 2 solid black pieces are extremely magnetic. I have no idea where any of these pieces belong.

Any help would be much appreciated. Should I replace the entire magneto cover?

The ski has leaked oil since I purchased it, but I am not sure if this leak can be coming from the magneto housing?
 
All that oil in there is not normal. Looks like your front oil seal might have given out. As far as the trigger coil ,I would just replace it. Not worth having to do it twice imo. Contact [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] he has good used parts he stands behind and is very reasonable.

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Thanks Ace.

In regards to the front oil seal, is this the oil seal between the magento and engine? Looking at the part diagram, there an an oil seal and gasket between the engine and magneto.

In regards to replacing pieces, are you recommending replacing the entire magneto cover with trigger coil? or just the trigger coil and bracket and keep the magneto cover?


I will be contacting [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] tonight
 
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Yes there is a gasket and a seal on the rear cover of the magneto housing and the engine, I would say the seal needs replaced. In order to do that the flywheel has to come off so you can access the bolts to remove the back coveruploadfromtaptalk1443305087289.jpg

I dont think the magneto cover needs to be replaced, just the coil. Its been a while since I had mine apart but I believe the trigger bracket just bolys on to the cover no?

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The trigger coil just bolts to the mag cover. I am hoping that all lose pieces I found in the magneto was from the trigger coil bracket; however, there were a few very tiny springs and magnetic metal chunks that I can not locate on a parts diagram.
Can I remove the flywheel without pulling the engine?
 
Looks like its just broken pieces of the coil. Get a new coil and bracket and you should be ok.You can pull the flywheel with out taking the engine out but it will be difficult. You probably want to remove the pipe to give you more access. You need a special puller tool for the flywheel.Check ebay I believe they are under $20.

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Thank you for all the help Ace. Much appreciated!!!

I think I'll be purchasing a coil and bracket and may just deal with the oil leak. Trying to convince myself to remove the flywheel and replace the oil seal but not sure if its worth it. What do you think?
 
Here is my $.02
The season is all but over so the time to fix it the right way is now. The 787 in the GTX is pretty simple to pull out and will make things much easier. While you have it out is a great time to clean everything, replace oil injector lines, oil filter, carb filters, ETC... Going into the season next year you will know its done right and ready to go.

The best part of pulling the engine is how easy it is to make you hull look like this.
445.jpg
 
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I would replace the seal. If it were my ski and there there was still riding time in the season I'd fix the coil now and ride. Then I'd pull the engine and change the seal as a winter project.

It looks like the inside of the hull needs to be cleaned pretty badly anyways.

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Yup, better to do it now, your already half way there. Im not sure what the long term afect might be of that oil leak, but id rather not find out.

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I have the same ski and it runs great no problems but the hull inside is pretty dirty... is there a way i can clean this out without removing the engine? Any tips appreciated!
 
I spray every thing with simple green and pressure wash it out. I then dump a cup or so of simple green concentrate and some laundry detergent in the hull and fill it with 4-6 inches of water. I then drive it around for 20+ min, drain and one final pressure wash. Comes out looking new.

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I spray every thing with simple green and pressure wash it out. I then dump a cup or so of simple green concentrate and some laundry detergent in the hull and fill it with 4-6 inches of water. I then drive it around for 20+ min, drain and one final pressure wash. Comes out looking new.

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You pressure wash it with everything still inside and hooked up? And you drive it full of 4-6 in, of water?
 
Yes, just be very careful around electronics/engine.

And yes drive around with the water and detergent. I just make sure there isn't enough water to get in carbs or electronics.

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Im a Superclean guy over simplegreen....but I have now that KILLS both....Jet Renu Degreaser. OMG does that stuff work good!!!!
 
I was looking at SuperClean yesterday wondering if it was worth the few extra dollars. Guess I'll have to try Jet Renu if I can find it around here.

I can't remember, does the 96 gti have the gray box or the new style MPEM? My 97 gti is new style so I'd assume the 96 GTX is the same.

If it's the old gray box I would remove it and hang the wire connectors up with zip ties to keep them dry before adding any water.

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