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1996 GTX Winterized for 6 years...

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tallfarmboy

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Howdy, I'm a teacher of an engine class in Missouri. We have worked on everything from boat motors, chainsaws, tractors, lawn mowers, and trucks. But, I've got a student who did some farm work in exchange for this 1996 GTX. The prior owner said it ran fine and was winterized by a dealer before they lost interest in it. It has sat under a cover in a barn for the past 5 or 6 years. The last registration tag on it is from 2006.

Well, everything seems good on it, cranks over properly (new battery), spark at both plugs... But, it is NOT getting fuel to the cylinders.
There are a LOT of fuel/impulse/return lines on the 2 carburetors. The fuel lines are grey (a problem I know), but I need to know what you all would do as far as troubleshooting this problem. Which fuel lines should have fuel coming out of them during cranking? I am sure that the carburetors need cleaned and probably need a kit installed. This student doesn't have much (any) cash and was hoping to get this ski running without putting much more in it.

Let me know what you all would do. Oh, and is there anyway to run a jetski on a hose?? (like a boat)

Thank you,
Tallfarmboy
 
First do a compression check and the prop/pump for major damage. Then if that is ok I would just go ahead and rebuild the carbs, replace the needles and seats, and change out the fuel line and clean the fuel selector valve. Its a 15 year old ski it needs to be done. Make sure to get as much gas out before you refill it.

Then, clean the rave valves at the top of the motor, and change the pump oil.

This will ensure that if the motor is in good health, it will last a long time. It could last an hour if the carbs are gummed up.

There is an adaptor to plug into the water line to run on a hose; but only run for a min or two that way.
 
I bet the inside of the carbs and fuel lines is totally gummed up. I would start with replacing all the fuel lines, and rebuild the carbs and clean fuel selector valve. Make sure to empty the fuel tank too. Might wanna check the oil injection system to make sure it is all there and working too.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. By chance, are there any "how-to" articles on this site? Or a place to download a service manual?
 
Thank you for your help...
Alright, what are the odds that we can get by without a pair of carb kits? We'll probably get the carbs removed tomorrow and start cleaning with a can of cleaner... hopefully there isn't too much carnage in the carburetors.
What exactly needs to be done to the RAVE valves?
 
You can join here as a premium member and pay the fee for 1 month and download your shop manual. You can also search here for how to's on doing pretty much everything you need.

I dont think it will do you much good to skimp on the carb rebuild. I can almost guarantee it will need it. Especially with the grey fuel lines.

For the rave vales you just pull them and clean the carbon off and put them back in. Here is a good post about them.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=6667
 
Just last summer I did alot of the things you are doing as mine sat for about 2 years and I just learned about the gray fuel lines. I replaced all of the fuel lines with about 20 ft of black auto fuel line (about $1 a foot). You'll need a box of #4 hose clamps. You'll probably want to also replace the very small oil lines that go from the oil pump to the carbs. You can use 1/8" inside diameter fuel line used frequently for weed eaters. The RAVEs are easy to clean and you will probably need new RAVE gaskets and small "O" rings. Probably a good idea to also change out the inline oil filter. Here is what the costs were from my SeaDoo dealer
RAVE Gaskets - $4.98
RAVE O Rings - $2.49
Oil Filter - $12.00

I had a mechanic clean and inspect my carbs and he said it did not need a rebuild kit, but he did replace the diaphram as this acts as your fuel pump. Make sure the tiny fuel filters in the carbs get cleaned as this is where the clogging really happens. You might also check the fuel water separator and make sure the the o'ring has a good seal as if it pulls in any air you wont get fuel to the carbs.

If you get it running, you probably want to change out the gear oil in the jet pump cone. This is also pretty easy to do.

Google SeaDoo Owners manual and you can probably find one to download for free.

Good Luck. :cool:
 
Well guys... we got the carbs pulled today and disassembled the MAG side carb. It must have been ran dry of fuel before it was stored because the inside of the carb was absolutely clean. The little filter had very little junk in it and everything looked good. needle/seat, diaphrams, jets... all clean and clear.
I am thinking the only reason the ski didn't start for us the other day was because we didn't crank long enough to prime the carbs. We will take apart the PTO side carb tomorrow, but I am expecting it to be pretty clean as well.
We are going to replace ALL of the dang grey lines... but they looked to be in good shape too.

I wish I would have snapped some pictures for you all to see, but everything looks great so far. We haven't touched the RAVE's yet...

Thanks for your help!
 
Well you could try to get away with just shooting carb cleaner thru the passages and skip the rebuild kits, but I would do it if the thing is gonna be someones personal machine for a long time.
 
I think for now, if the PTO side carb is as clean as the MAG side, we will be trying a clean-n-go... But, there wasn't anything to clean inside the first carb.
Y'all keep your fingers crossed...

Oh, and which hose can we plumb into to run it off a hose? If we can get it to hit, we will kill it and then try to run it off a hose after it hits.
 
you can run w/o a hose for 30sec or so just dont rev it up much.

I misspoke...on that model there is a tube on the back next to the pump. Your hose screws in there. Most people buy those quik fittings...
 
Rear of the ski. A pipe sticking out 5-6 inches. You can get a quick connect at your favorite home improvement store that the male threads into the pipe; the female attaches to your garden hose.
 
Jet Pump Oil Change

If you have been able to download a SeaDoo Manual there are instructions on how to change the Pump Oil. It instructs which Loctite sealants to use which I could not find. I found the Permatex equals which might help you when you are ready to tackle the jet pump cone.

Jet Pump Oil Change (following SeaDoo Manual instructions)
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil - 75-90 GL5
Permatex 51813 Anerobic Gasket Maker (Same as Loctite 518)
Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue (Same as Loctite 242)
Permatex 80631 #14 Thread Sealant w/ teflon (Same as Loctite PST 592)
 
Just to follow up for you guys...

The ski has "newer" gray fuel lines... they have obviously been replaced at some time, because all of the hose clamps are the reusable type AND the fuel lines were in good shape. They were the "tempo" brand fuel lines, but I am 99% sure they are a newer production run... they are nor hardened at all and the inside of the lines are still solid, not deteriorating at all.

Replaced the 2 oil pump lines and check to see if the oil pump was pumping... it is working properly.

Started re-installing the carbs today, couldn't get one bolt to start, gonna have to loosen some hose clamps tomorrow and try to get that last bolt started.

One thing... this ski doesn't make ANY beeps when you plug the key into it. Should it make a beep? The dash lights all come on and the ski cranks properly... I just thought it was supposed to beep??

Thanks for all of you're help, it has helped a BUNCH!

TFB
 
tallfarmboy said:
Just to follow up for you guys...

The ski has "newer" gray fuel lines... they have obviously been replaced at some time, because all of the hose clamps are the reusable type AND the fuel lines were in good shape. They were the "tempo" brand fuel lines, but I am 99% sure they are a newer production run... they are nor hardened at all and the inside of the lines are still solid, not deteriorating at all.

Replaced the 2 oil pump lines and check to see if the oil pump was pumping... it is working properly.

Started re-installing the carbs today, couldn't get one bolt to start, gonna have to loosen some hose clamps tomorrow and try to get that last bolt started.

One thing... this ski doesn't make ANY beeps when you plug the key into it. Should it make a beep? The dash lights all come on and the ski cranks properly... I just thought it was supposed to beep??

Thanks for all of you're help, it has helped a BUNCH!

TFB
Click to expand...

With the ethanol content in today's gasoline, I would get rid of those tempo fuel lines. It is only a matter of time before they start to deteriorate.

Beeps...if the ski turns over, guages work, it's getting fire and no alarms then the beeper has gone bad. (common problem) My GTX is a "sometimer." You can get a new beeper from radio shack and mount it down by the MPEM, run the wires to it so that it doesn't get wet and ruin, or you could just not worry with it. Doesn't affect the performance of the ski.
 
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