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Picked up a 1996 GTI that had been sitting for year. Need some advice on bottom end...

-Replaced all fuel lines/filters and deleted fuel selector valve.
-Discovered broke ring on piston from a prior rebuild, have exchange pistons/cylinders ordered.
-Poured diesel fuel into crankshaft/rod area

Over couple days a small amount of diesel leaked out from under the flywheel. I'm guessing a outer crankshaft seal replacement is in order. Whats thoughts about this. Really wish would have bought a rebuilt motor at this point.... if have to put a rebuilt crankshaft in, it would have been cheaper to do just that. Thanks
I'm not set up for it but I'd do an engine pressure test before you split the cases. Don't do anything without good reason and the more expensive the better the reason needs to be. LOL You don't have to replace the crankshaft to replace the outer seals just buy a full gasket kit and you'll have everything you need. But... I'd pressure test the rotary valve area in addition. If all that tests good... ride it like you stole it. :) If not... fix what needs fixin. I do condition based repair and maintenance. Good Luck !
Have new outer seals on the way.

The diesel was originally just to clean down in the case, then thought it may work to show a leak since the jugs had already been removed.
As far as getting the flywheel and rear off... see the manual calls for special tools... are these 100% necessary or has anyone had success without them?
Good to have that special tool cuz it also fits the impeller when you remove it for wear ring replacement. You may have to heat the PTO flywheel. I made my own tool. It is totally badazz and quite a few times it umscrewed the PTO and the crank was on the floor removed from the engine and unsecured. BAM !!! :D

PTO Puller.jpgPTO Puller-B.jpg
As far as getting the flywheel and rear off... see the manual calls for special tools... are these 100% necessary or has anyone had success without them?
Just break down and buy the PTO tool. It is also used to remove the impeller, so definitely worth the small investment.

With the cylinders already removed, you've made it much more difficult to remove the fly wheel and PTO. If the cylinders were still on, some rope down the plug hole keeps everything from rotating when trying to remove
I wonder about the rope trick twisting the crankshaft. When I have done it, I made sure the piston was very close to the top of the stroke. I'm thinking of buying the locking tool for the Mag flywheel. I know when the PTO flywheels gets installed you'll have the same torque going through crank. LOL
As long as you lock the cylinder closest to the part being removed you will not twist the crank. I like to remove the head and use a block of wood to lock the crank.

The flywheel locks can twist the crank if you are working on the PTO and have cracked cases where they transfer the rotating torque through the cases.
Update: ended up using a harmonic balancer puller to remove the flywheel. Worked like a charm. Unfortunately not only was the seal bad, but the crankshaft was toast. Most of the bearings were wore out and one was even cracked.
I tell ya... you just never know about the bottom end until you have a closer look. Glad you checked that and found it !!
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