1996 Challeger With PROBLEMS AFTER OVERHAULED

[tonyoyola]

Greeting to all,

My challenger sat in the garage for 6 years.
Last month finally got it out, had the engine overhauled inlcuduing .50 Pro X pistons, all bearings, gaskets, seals replaced, carbs Jetted and racing air filter/ arrester installed. That engine is HOT! But now its Carvitating or so speak. After it clears out, it hitting close to 55MPH. I was told it could be the combination of prop (SOLAS X-0) with the punp exit venturi with the added power to the engine. I was told, all these elements have to be balanced to achive peak, best performance. During the overhaul of the engine, the pump was disassembled, the wear ring and all seals were replaced.

Can someone give me some pointers on this issue, It's a little frustrating, after spending over $2k the boat aint running right.

Please advise.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[seadooya]

having installed aftermarket air filters, you need to pull the carbs back off and "lower" the pop-off in the n/s assy. It be best to install 2.0n/s and 80gm(black) spring in each....think the problem is, is that its not allowing the fuel to transfer to top end, when coming off 1/4 throttle

 

[tonyoyola]

This that you mentioned was done as well. The engine it self is runnimg Perfectly!
Idle RPM in the watter is about 1500 RMs and it revs up marvelously!

My problem is getting it out from a dead stop. Its taking too much time to plane.
I can see Power stream or blast comming out of the pump and extends about 15 or 20 feet back from the boat, but the but just won't take off accordingly...

 

[voodoo]

Have you had a chance top break in the new motor? if so take a plug chop and be sure you are not leaning out, grease the hull seal if it has the fitting on the metal tube and see if that helps it may need to be rebuilt to prevent air coming in there - the style with the stretchy rubber does not get any grease and the stetchy part needs to be tight towards the metal sealing ring to prevent air leaking - your model year is on the edge of change from the greasing style to the no grease style so look for the metal tube but still lube the pto fitting every 3-4 months if you have the newer hull seal. Follow the plug readings carefully, the 2stroke family is very important to have strong fuel flow or burnt engine will result.

 

[pincusa]

Check the bellows and the carbon seals around the drive shaft. As the bellows get old, they get hard and don't put the pressure on the carbon ring that's needed. With the pressure sucking water into the prop, it can easily also suck air in through the carbon ring if it's not a good seal.

I chased a cavitation problem around for almost a year before replacing it. Now the issue is gone and the boat is great!

 

[Chester]

It's the impeller. The Solas XO is a poor choice for that boat. It's made for top speed and will do OK in a PWC like a 97 GTX. Put a Skat-Trak swirl in there and you will be happy again.

Chester