1995 sp oil filled crankcase

[Cheflen]

Hey guys I need some help, I'm currently rebuilding a new sp that I just got, and when I got it the crankcase was FILLED to the top with oil, I mean all the way up to the heads. I've been reading all the forums and all of them say it's either the crank bearings or the oil pump check valve. I really don't want to pull apart the crankcase because I'm worried about not being able to time it correctly but if it is the seals then I'm going to do it. My question is, wouldn't it be the oil pump check valve if it's filled this high up? I can't imagine the crank bearings would allow it to fill this high up with oil. If it's the check valve does anyone have a link to buying them? I can't find the part anywhere. It's the white 580

 

[mikidymac]

On these it is typically the inner crank seals that cause this and since the oil tank is higher than the engine it can fill up all the way. It could also be the rotary shaft seal or the oil pump check valves would be the least likely.

 

[Cheflen]

On these it is typically the inner crank seals that cause this and since the oil tank is higher than the engine it can fill up all the way. It could also be the rotary shaft seal or the oil pump check valves would be the least likely.

Do I have to remove the crank bearings to replace the inner crank seals? I can't find any procedure in the repair manual on how to replace the crank seals other than showing a special tool needed for crank bearings

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

You can't replace those crank seals yourself. You have to get your crank rebuilt or replaced. I'd check the Rotary Valve seal first, as it's the easiest to check.
I've always had this crazy, unorthodox idea, that if my crank seals leaked, I'd just go Pre-Mix and use some really thick gear oil, maybe mixed with that thick Lucas oil stabilizer in my rotary valve gear space. If the seals are truly GONE, like shredded, then you have no hope, but it's just a little leak, this has a chance in hell of working. I've honestly never seen bad inner crank seals in my years of building these, but I've maybe only handled like 10 different seadoo 2-stroke cranks. The seals on them seem pretty tough.
You can test them and the Rotary Valve seal by pressurizing the rotary valve gear cavity with like 5psi and see how fast it leaks out and also listen to WHERE it leaks out. You'll have to block off one of the thick lines going to it and pressurize the other. You'll need some way to limit how much pressure you're letting in there as you can blow those seals out pretty easily. (let me know if you need an idea on how to build this tool with harbor freight parts) Take your rotary valve cover off before you do it, so you can see if oil bubbles out around it.

 

[Cheflen]

You can't replace those crank seals yourself. You have to get your crank rebuilt or replaced. I'd check the Rotary Valve seal first, as it's the easiest to check.
I've always had this crazy, unorthodox idea, that if my crank seals leaked, I'd just go Pre-Mix and use some really thick gear oil, maybe mixed with that thick Lucas oil stabilizer in my rotary valve gear space. If the seals are truly GONE, like shredded, then you have no hope, but it's just a little leak, this has a chance in hell of working. I've honestly never seen bad inner crank seals in my years of building these, but I've maybe only handled like 10 different seadoo 2-stroke cranks. The seals on them seem pretty tough.
You can test them and the Rotary Valve seal by pressurizing the rotary valve gear cavity with like 5psi and see how fast it leaks out and also listen to WHERE it leaks out. You'll have to block off one of the thick lines going to it and pressurize the other. You'll need some way to limit how much pressure you're letting in there as you can blow those seals out pretty easily. (let me know if you need an idea on how to build this tool with harbor freight parts) Take your rotary valve cover off before you do it, so you can see if oil bubbles out around it.

Thanks for the help guys. Yeah this is my 3rd jet ski I bought it as a fun low budget project, I got it for 100$. And according to what everyone else did I think I'm just going to ignore it and replace the rotary valve seals and run it anyway. It seems that people don't have an issue with it other than a little smoke upon start up. Anybody have a link on how to replace the rotary valve seals?

 

[Cheflen]

You can't replace those crank seals yourself. You have to get your crank rebuilt or replaced. I'd check the Rotary Valve seal first, as it's the easiest to check.
I've always had this crazy, unorthodox idea, that if my crank seals leaked, I'd just go Pre-Mix and use some really thick gear oil, maybe mixed with that thick Lucas oil stabilizer in my rotary valve gear space. If the seals are truly GONE, like shredded, then you have no hope, but it's just a little leak, this has a chance in hell of working. I've honestly never seen bad inner crank seals in my years of building these, but I've maybe only handled like 10 different seadoo 2-stroke cranks. The seals on them seem pretty tough.
You can test them and the Rotary Valve seal by pressurizing the rotary valve gear cavity with like 5psi and see how fast it leaks out and also listen to WHERE it leaks out. You'll have to block off one of the thick lines going to it and pressurize the other. You'll need some way to limit how much pressure you're letting in there as you can blow those seals out pretty easily. (let me know if you need an idea on how to build this tool with harbor freight parts) Take your rotary valve cover off before you do it, so you can see if oil bubbles out around it.

I mean this thing was sitting for a while, and I don't have the tools to test for any leaks, so I just wanted to replace what was needed on my first rebuild. But I'm assuming since it's been sitting for a while it was probably just a slow leak, so it's not even worth it to split the case and lose timing etc

 

[Cheflen]

One last thing I was concerned about, was when I pulled the MAG cover off I noticed a small residue of oil, but it was a tiny about. And I really don't want to replace the outer crank seals, because I don't want to pull off the flywheel and not be able to put it on in the proper place. Do you think this small residue of oil will be a problem or just a tiny leak that developed over a long time of sitting?

 

[mikidymac]

I wouldn't worry about the oil in the MAG. You can't replace the rotary seals with out splitting the cases.

What color is the oil? THere have been some members here that replaced the wrong blue/green TCW-3 oil with the correct API-TC oil and the seals stopped leaking. You have to flush the rotary cavity to do this.

 

[Cheflen]

I wouldn't worry about the oil in the MAG. You can't replace the rotary seals with out splitting the cases.

What color is the oil? THere have been some members here that replaced the wrong blue/green TCW-3 oil with the correct API-TC oil and the seals stopped leaking. You have to flush the rotary cavity to do this.

Yes that's another thing, the oil is almost a red/black color. Like dirty transmission fluid. Also I have read that you don't need to split the case to replace the rotary valve seal? Or do you?

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

No, you don't need to split case to get the rotary seal out. I would remove the rotary valve cover, mark where the rotary valve goes, take it off as well, then clean up that area. Fill your oil tank and see if you get a leak out of the rotary valve seal. If you see that the tank emptied, and it didn't run down the rotary valve face, it must have gone into the engine past the crank seals. Anyway, this would be a good test to see how fast it leaks. I would disconnect the oil lines and affix them vertically and pour oil into them and watch the level. The higher you can get them, the more hydrostatic pressure you will put on the seals. It's like having your oil tank filled. The higher the level, the more pressure on the seals.

 

[Cheflen]

No, you don't need to split case to get the rotary seal out. I would remove the rotary valve cover, mark where the rotary valve goes, take it off as well, then clean up that area. Fill your oil tank and see if you get a leak out of the rotary valve seal. If you see that the tank emptied, and it didn't run down the rotary valve face, it must have gone into the engine past the crank seals. Anyway, this would be a good test to see how fast it leaks. I would disconnect the oil lines and affix them vertically and pour oil into them and watch the level. The higher you can get them, the more hydrostatic pressure you will put on the seals. It's like having your oil tank filled. The higher the level, the more pressure on the seals.

Thanks for the help idoseadoo, this is honestly making this project 100x easier. I'm not exactly sure how to get to the rotary valve seals. I have the valve cover off, I marked the valve and pulled the valve off, but I see a little C clip. Is that what I have to pull out?

 

[NoRdO]

Thanks for the help idoseadoo, this is honestly making this project 100x easier. I'm not exactly sure how to get to the rotary valve seals. I have the valve cover off, I marked the valve and pulled the valve off, but I see a little C clip. Is that what I have to pull out?

You need a tool to pull the rotary valve gearset. I found this by googling rotary shaft removal tool.

 

[DanSquires]

Pressure test the RV cavity before pulling the RV gear. The only way to know 100% where the leak is, is by a pressure test.

 

[mikidymac]

Good info. I always thought you could pull the gear without splitting the cases but I have never tried it and have read many times over the years it can't be done. If someone has actually done it that is great news.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Yea, I used to do it in a similar way to the video. The trick is to get a strong bolt. I've had one break off in the RV gear before.
The tool to test for leaks will cost you less than $20 to build from Harbor Freight (a bit more from home depot). You just need a pressure regulator, a valve, a 3-way tee, a gauge, and a barb. The idea is to limit how much pressure you get from your compressor, and that's where the pressure regulator comes in. I attach the valve upstream, then the regulator, then the T. To the T, I attach a gauge, you know how much pressure you're giving it, and then a barb, so you can get a hose and attach it to whatever you're trying to pressure test. I try to get a gauge that goes from 0-50 PSI so I can use it to test Pop-off pressure on carbs, but you can get a 0-10 for what you're doing.
It's been too long since I've pulled a rotary valve assembly, so I forget if you have to remove a C-clip, but there is one, then yea. I think you have to use split ring pliers. Anyway, you can Google "Seadoo shop manual" and you should be able to find them for free for any year seadoo. It will give you the exact procedure and diagrams. It's not a very hard job, but as mentioned, before you go ripping it apart, pressure test it to see what you've got. Taking something apart always leaves the chance to make it worse.