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1995 GTX gas gauge not working
- Thread starter a0106765
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.....a different way...
It's hard to distinguish the level in the tank with the float rising to determine if it's working correctly. Chances are, it is. It will either be the electrical magnetic pick up board or the gage. If you can remove the sending unit, then you can connect an ohm meter and turn the sending unit ride side up and down, allowing the float to travel along the board and see if it's changing ohms as it moves.
Jumper the two wires at the connection to the wires running forward to your gage. With the power on to the gages, the jumper should make the gage read full. If not, the fuses or gage is bad.
It's hard to distinguish the level in the tank with the float rising to determine if it's working correctly. Chances are, it is. It will either be the electrical magnetic pick up board or the gage. If you can remove the sending unit, then you can connect an ohm meter and turn the sending unit ride side up and down, allowing the float to travel along the board and see if it's changing ohms as it moves.
Jumper the two wires at the connection to the wires running forward to your gage. With the power on to the gages, the jumper should make the gage read full. If not, the fuses or gage is bad.
turtlemandan
New Member
when you say
"Jumper the two wires at the connection to the wires running forward to your gage. With the power on to the gages, the jumper should make the gage read full. If not, the fuses or gage is bad."
im new at all this so work with me!hahah
would that be the plug that i would have detached my sending unit from? would i just take one piece of wire and connect both ends of the plugg together with the gage on and it should read full? thanks-dan
"Jumper the two wires at the connection to the wires running forward to your gage. With the power on to the gages, the jumper should make the gage read full. If not, the fuses or gage is bad."
im new at all this so work with me!hahah
would that be the plug that i would have detached my sending unit from? would i just take one piece of wire and connect both ends of the plugg together with the gage on and it should read full? thanks-dan
From What i've found on the net it appears expect to see 2 Ohms for a Full Tank, 47 Ohms for a Half Tank and 90 Ohms for an Empty Tank. Haven't tested those values myself but was what I found online when researching my guage playing up, which mysteriously fixed itself before i got to taking any measurements.
That's correct Dan. The values aren't important because if its broken it just won't have any readings.
Karl
hopalongcasualty
New Member
Fuel Baffle Float.
I just did this project last night.
I pulled the fuel tank from the hull and removed the fuel baffle. The bottom of the baffle has a screen that can be removed allowing the float to be removed. place the float in a small can of gas to see if it floats. Mine sank like it was made of lead.
I contacted my local shop and picked up Float #275 500 348 for $11.95 + Tax. This is the improved design using the white plastic.
I then used the volt/ohm meter to verify the resistance as the float moved up and down in the fuel baffle as I tilted it back and forth.
I installed the baffle back into the tank and put the tank back into the hull.
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Now while I was doing this I replaced all of the fuel lines. Use 6mm or 1/4" ID fuel line for this project. I purchased 20 feet of "Gates" fuel line hose. You will also want about 12 stainless clamps, I picked up fuel injection hose clamps at O'Reily Auto Parts but got them from the counter guy and not the cheap gear clamps on the shelves. You will want to have carb cleaner on hand to clean your fuel selector valve. Total time for the whole project was 4 hours , but that included the time to siphon the tank, drink several beers and so-fourth. A dedicated person with all of thier tools in order and fully prepaired could do the whold project in about 2 hours.
I am not sure if you will be able to verify the condition of the float until the baffle is removed. Unless you take your volt ohm meter on the lake with you so you can measure resistance while riding during the day. This might prove to be an expensive test if you get the meter wet.
Good luck with the diagnostics and I would recommend you try to use up as much gas as possible before doing this because it is amazing how much gas one of these holds.
I just did this project last night.
I pulled the fuel tank from the hull and removed the fuel baffle. The bottom of the baffle has a screen that can be removed allowing the float to be removed. place the float in a small can of gas to see if it floats. Mine sank like it was made of lead.
I contacted my local shop and picked up Float #275 500 348 for $11.95 + Tax. This is the improved design using the white plastic.
I then used the volt/ohm meter to verify the resistance as the float moved up and down in the fuel baffle as I tilted it back and forth.
I installed the baffle back into the tank and put the tank back into the hull.
-----
Now while I was doing this I replaced all of the fuel lines. Use 6mm or 1/4" ID fuel line for this project. I purchased 20 feet of "Gates" fuel line hose. You will also want about 12 stainless clamps, I picked up fuel injection hose clamps at O'Reily Auto Parts but got them from the counter guy and not the cheap gear clamps on the shelves. You will want to have carb cleaner on hand to clean your fuel selector valve. Total time for the whole project was 4 hours , but that included the time to siphon the tank, drink several beers and so-fourth. A dedicated person with all of thier tools in order and fully prepaired could do the whold project in about 2 hours.
I am not sure if you will be able to verify the condition of the float until the baffle is removed. Unless you take your volt ohm meter on the lake with you so you can measure resistance while riding during the day. This might prove to be an expensive test if you get the meter wet.
Good luck with the diagnostics and I would recommend you try to use up as much gas as possible before doing this because it is amazing how much gas one of these holds.
I know you solved this issue, I just wanted to add my two cents. I have a 96 GTI and thought my sender was bad. Turned out the the float in the sender had become saturated and no longer floated...it sank, so my fuel always read empty. I too replaced the float in the sender and have been fine ever sense.
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