1994 Sea Doo GTX Suitability for Restoration

[nTrouble]

Hi:

I would like to tap into everyone's collective wisdom on repairing a 1994 Sea Doo GTX.

Background
Last week, I pulled a non running 1994 Model Sea Doo GTX (Model 5862) out of a relative's barn. The placard on the engine reads Type 657. It was last in the water before 2015, and has been sitting in the barn awaiting disposal for at least five years. It was a fresh water PWC, and the hull seems to be in good condition. The bilge does have some oil in it.

I found a note to the mechanic that read "oil on water after boat" and "loss of power." If I am getting the story correct, the mechanic told my relatives that it needed a new motor, and it was not worth rebuilding.

When I rolled it out, my son wanted it pressure washed immediately. He wants to see it run again, and told his friends that we were going to fix it. (ARRRGH!, I am feeling some pressure now.)

I just downloaded the manual. I have basic mechanic's tools and access to lifts, etc. I have very basic mechanical skills. (Changing fuel injectors, water pumps, etc. on automobiles.)

What I have done so far:

I put a battery on it, and the starter will turn the engine.

I tested the compression with an old, finger-tightened, Sears compression tester. The forward (Mag?) cylinder was at 100 psi and the aft cylinder (pump?) was at 80 psi.

I gave it a shot of ether, and it fired. I assume that the gas is bad, and the fuel lines and carburetor are gunked up.

Repair list, so far:

From reading this forum, my to do list so far is:
Clean the fuel tank.
Replace the fuel lines.
Replace the fuel selector.
Rebuild the carburetor with genuine Mikuni kits.
Replace the oil lines.

Questions:

Some of these questions fall into the category of is it worth it and the others are how do I do it. My questions are:

1. What should I look for when evaluating it for repair? Is there a checklist somewhere?
2. Is it worth rebuilding?
3. What is the estimated value as it sits now?
4. What would the estimated value be running?
5. What else needs to be done?
6. Any other words of wisdom that you do not mind sharing?

I appreciate everyone's time.

Thanks,
nT

 

[Mraw]

I would double check with another compression gauge. 150 is perfect, 130 marginal, and 120 it will need a new top end. There should be no more than a 10 psi differnce between cylinders. As far as value goes it depends on your area, I've seen drastic price differences between regions. However a 94 gtx with the 657 is not a very desirable ski. In my area in michigan those go for 900 to 1200 in working order with trailer

 

[mikidymac]

Do not use a Harbor Freight compression gauge.

Do not use starting fluid.

Only use Genuine Mikuni parts and needles and seats and follow the carb rebuild thread sticky.

 

[tox_slaughter]

I just purchased the same seadoo about a month ago. I was shocked how fast it gets up on the lake. Looking online there are rebuilt motors (if needed) at what I feel is a very reasonable rate. For my Volvo's I go to Autozone to rent their equipment and I know they carry goo compression gauges.

BTW - Paid $1500 in PNW for 94 Seadoo GTX. One thing I like about this model is its 3 seater and I have used it to pull a wakeboarder no problem.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Very good machine worth rebuilding.

 

[nTrouble]

Thanks everybody. Is there a way to check hours on this Sea Doo?

 

[AKnarrowback]

Nope, no hour meter.

 

[SigEp368]

I have the same year and model, and (when it runs) it is a great pwc. The kids like it cause it because the smooth hull design breaks loose easily, which is great for power sliding. It is pretty bare bones (i.e. no fancy gauges, DESS key) which is good, since there isn't much a mechanically inclined person can't do on this unit.

With that in mind here are following things you probably have to do, regardless if you rebuild the engine or not:

• Rebuild Carbs with Mikuni kits = 2 x $45 (if you can find them)
  • pop-off tester = $20-40
• Gray Fuel Line & fuel selector switch replacement = $150-200 (see this post for more info)
• Check with dealer, as I think there is a recall on the gas tank, they will replace for free.
  • could be the 1995 GTX, not sure anymore..double check, just give them your VIN
  • BTW - the ski must be running for them to replace the tank, so do this last
• Clean oil tank, replace all oil lines and filters, confirm oil pump function, refill with proper oil = $35-50
• Change jet pump oil = $15
• Inspect wear ring, impeller, and driveshaft, depending on the condition of the parts, you can expect the following:
  • wear ring = $40-70 (aftermarket to OEM)
  • Bearing replacement = $40
  • center carrier bearing replacement = $35
  • Driveshaft = $60 -166 (used to new)

All in all, you are looking at $150 on the low end and $350+ on the high end BEFORE you put any money into the engine (not to mention a dozen hours or so on labor). I bring all of this up because I agree with MRAW, that your compression sounds a little low. I have read a couple posts of guys with numbers that low, and they found that while the engine ran good on hose, it just didn't have enough power to run on the water. IMO, if you aren't going to put the money into an engine rebuild, then I wouldn't start down the path at all. The worst thing you can do on a ski this old is get pot committed.....I know, cause I did it....twice.

Your situation is different than most, cause the unit is free, so if the pump, impeller and seats are in good working condition, then I would say it is worth pulling the engine. From what I have read, an SBT or Full Bore rebuild is going to be $700 - 1,300 (respectively), which makes your combined cost to get on the water $850-1700. Even on the high end your out of pocket cost, is just under what it would take to buy one off craigslist. The big difference is that you will know you have a like new unit vs. one you don't know the history on.

With that said, the panademic has caused such a spike in water sports sales; that people are buying boats and PWCs without doing dong proper due diligence. I know people who have who bought $10k+ boats this summer, without even doing a compression check, all because they "didn't want to lose another one". So if there was ever a time to get rid of a problem child, this is it....so you could sell it and take the cash, then gamble on avoiding someone else's problem child. Good Luck!

 

[SigEp368]

If you do decide to work on the carbs, I have some advice. Your carbs should utilize the type 1 base, which requires you place them over studs that come up from the manifold. If you have the design, circled below, then the following are the lessons I learned, that I didn't see posted anywhere else:

1. when you remove the flame arrester, use a permanent marker to mark the location of the choke linkage before you slide the connecting rod out of the carb, it makes it easier for re-assembly.
2. It is difficult to remove or assemble the carbs as a single unit (see items# 3 & 4), I would disconnect the linkage between the carbs and remove the PTO carb first, then the mag carb.
   • when assembling the order is reversed, MAG then PTO.
3. There isn't enough room between the flange and the throttle body, so you will have to hold the carbs off the manifold to get the nuts/ washers on and off the stud.
   • get good at holding washers between your fingertips, it takes both hands coming in from different angles to get those bastards on and off without dropping them.
   • You will drop them, so place paper towel or shop towel underneath the carbs before you start. Anything that falls, is lost forever in the abyss that lies beneath your engine. (seriously get a magnet on a stick).
4. There is not enough clearance to get access to the nuts with a normal wrench, so I recommend:
   • Engine side - heat up and bend an open end 13 mm between 80-90 degrees about 1-1.5" from the tip (needs to come up between the carb and engine block). the longer the handle the better, but you also want the narrowest points you can get, otherwise it binds against the flange. you will only get 1/8th turns at a time, but if you grind sharpen the head of the wrench you can get a little more out of it.
   • Hull side - you will need a stubby 13 mm, as there is not much clearance between the hull. careful not to bend the linkage, it is conveniently in the way. again grinding the head down to make it thinner can help.
5. When reassembling, connect the e-clip, that holds the oil pump linkage to the oil pump bracket, beforeyou install the MAG carb. its a tough angle, and be sure to place a towel down, there are at least a dozen e-clips roaming around in the bottom on my hull somewhere...never to be seen again.
   • purchase additional e-clips from a hardware store before you start installing, they will shoot off.
6. Take your time and follow Mikidymac's carb rebuild sticky to the letter.
   • I recommend getting slotted screws to replace Phillips heads that came on it, chances are you will have to go in multiple times, and those strip easily. If you get the kit from OSD, he includes these.
   • Get a precision screwdriver set, otherwise you strip the internal screws using a standard #1 or #2 head. If you are near a home depot, this unit works great.
   • Use only the parts list on the parts diagram for the BN38. you will have extra gaskets left over when you build the pump. more is not better in this case, putting in more gaskets will cause your pressure test to fail.
7. Optional Accessories:
   • 1 bottle of NSAIDs for the crippling arthritis you will get,
   • 2 bottles of liquor (one for removal and one for installation).
8. Put the kids to bed, cause there will be blood and ALOT of cursing....mainly at the Seadoo engineers (circa 1990).

Good Luck!

 

[nTrouble]

Sig Ep:

Thank you for your detailed reply. I am always happy when someone a little further down the road takes the time to explain things to me.

Looking at everyone's advice and this ski, I will start with a rebuilt engine (Full Bore this winter as his schedule allows) and fix everything else as my time allows in order to have it ready by next April.

 

[Seadoo Tuner]

Sig Ep:

Thank you for your detailed reply. I am always happy when someone a little further down the road takes the time to explain things to me.

Looking at everyone's advice and this ski, I will start with a rebuilt engine (Full Bore this winter as his schedule allows) and fix everything else as my time allows in order to have it ready by next April.

Some people have had bad experiences with full bore recently, taking up to a year to get a motor back after getting the runaround, so would go with SBT instead imho.