-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
04 Utopia fuel gauge and Nav lights do not work
- Thread starter bmdubb
- Start date
- Status
Check the bulbs of the lights and see if you have power to the fixture.
Checking Fuel sending unit resistance;
You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. Check the float to see if it “floats” in a cup of gas. Sometimes the float becomes saturated and won’t float in gas…but it will in water, so use gas to check it. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to gauge. At the baffle you could un plug the guage and using a jumper wire between the 2 wires in the plug on the guage side. Attach the lanyard to power up the gauges. If the guage goes to full the guage is good. If it still doesn’t respond, do a continuity test of the wires to the guage. If all wiring checks out ok, and the guage still doesn’t respond, the gauge is bad.
Karl
Checking Fuel sending unit resistance;
You need to check the Pink and Pink/Black wire coming out of the baffle tube in the gas tank. The sending unit works off resistance. Pull the plug apart at the tank, and use an ohm meter to check for resistance between the two pink wires. The resistance will be different depending on how much fuel is in the fuel tank. If you get no resistance, remove the clamps off the sender, and pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. Check the magnets on the float in the sending unit. To get to the float out, pop the bottom off and look for the 4 magnets on the float. If they are missing use a strong magnet to get them out of the tank bottom. If they are dirty clean them and re-insert it back in the baffle tube and check the wires again to check for readings of resistance depending on where the float is in the baffle tube. Check the float to see if it “floats” in a cup of gas. Sometimes the float becomes saturated and won’t float in gas…but it will in water, so use gas to check it. If still no reading of resistance replace the sender. If you get readings, check continuity of wiring to gauge. At the baffle you could un plug the guage and using a jumper wire between the 2 wires in the plug on the guage side. Attach the lanyard to power up the gauges. If the guage goes to full the guage is good. If it still doesn’t respond, do a continuity test of the wires to the guage. If all wiring checks out ok, and the guage still doesn’t respond, the gauge is bad.
Karl
Bulbs look good but no power to fixtures. Bad switch?
Now for the fuel gauge issue. I have exposed the fuel tank and see the two pink wires but there is no plug in this area. One of the wires is connected to a circular brass piece and is connected with a ring terminal and a nut and the other wire is connected to the same brass circular piece by a push on terminal. The only place i found a plug is where the wires plug into the fuel gauge itself at the dash. I did unplug it there and tested for Ohms and got a reading of 39.4. So at this point should i disconnect the two pink wires at the tank and run a jumper between the two?
Now for the fuel gauge issue. I have exposed the fuel tank and see the two pink wires but there is no plug in this area. One of the wires is connected to a circular brass piece and is connected with a ring terminal and a nut and the other wire is connected to the same brass circular piece by a push on terminal. The only place i found a plug is where the wires plug into the fuel gauge itself at the dash. I did unplug it there and tested for Ohms and got a reading of 39.4. So at this point should i disconnect the two pink wires at the tank and run a jumper between the two?
Check the wires at the switch...use a multi meter to see if you have continuity through the switch. If you do, and if you have power going to, and past the switch it must be in the wires from the switch to the fixture...process of elimination. There usually is a connector in line from the guage to the tank. A jumper wire between the 2 wires( pink and pink/ blk) should send a full tank to the guage. as I said in other post.
Karl
Karl
- Status
