02 GTX DI won't start

[pinktexasbred]

I'm back again :/ after my last issue it ran perfect. This last time I pulled my two kids who weigh combined 180 on a mable for maybe 20 mins, I shut if off to take some pictures and tried to turn it back on and it wouldn't kick over, thankfully after a few failed attempts it started so I just went home. On a side note when I was pulling the mable out of the water to load up there was massive amounts of water inside which probably created way more weight then I should have been pulling, not sure if this attributes to the issue at hand but figured I'd throw that detail in. Also when pulling my plugs I noticed a good amount of water coming out, about a gallon. Today I tried to start it up out of the water and nothing, it sounds like it's really trying to start up but it won't give, when I let go of the start button it seems to be the rave valves (picture below) are making a noise similar to the lolly pop kids from the wizard of oz when they stick their finger in there mouth and pull it out. I hope this makes sense in trying to be as detailed as possible. Any input is EXTREEMLY helpful and appreciated. Oh and when I'm trying to start I don't believe I hear any clicking that I read would be related to a starter or relay.

 

[TLH101]

Pull the sparkplugs and ground the terminals. Put your thumb over the sparkplug hole and crank the motor. Do this to both cylinders, and alternate until you don't get anymore moisture. Then spray some lubricant into the cylinders and crank until you blow it all out. Now reinstall plugs and attempt to start. If it starts, keep it running for several seconds. Shut it of hook up flusher, and restart. Turn on the water after it's running and let run until the motor is good and warm, to dry out the crank case.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Thanks I will carefully attempt! Sorry but I tend to read into things a little to much so a few questions for your response. Are both spark plugs removed or remove one at a time when cranking? Am I sticking my thumb in the hole? I know you wrote "over" but just making sure, moisture should be shooting out of this hole? This hole that your referring to is the "cylinder" I am also spraying lubricant into? Is there a specific lubricant?

 

[TLH101]

Both Plugs out. Cover the spark plug holes with your thumb (one at a time) to create extra pressure to help expel any water. SeaDoo spray lube is best, but anything will help, even WD-40.

 

[bdesim2]

Please don't use wd-40. That will clean the oil off the cylinder walls . Can cause damage.

Also, this is a DI... Make sure you hold the throttle wide open while cranking to check for moisture IF you are going to try this. That will allow the fuel injectors not to fire.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Pulled the plugs out felt a little moisture (I'm assuming) looked dark silver, smoke was coming out of both cylinders. While doing this It never stayed running more than 7 sec. Also it sounded as if the battery was being drained starting hard and dying out. Also when it shutoff I noticed each time 4 thuds. I read the battery was reading 10ish and while waiting it hit 12.6 so I attempted to start and this time it gave a little go but shuts off way faster then previously. The 4 thudding nosises have also ceased but now I hear a slight rattling. I did replace spark plugs and removed again and they are pretty black.

 

[bdesim2]

Start with the basics. Compression test. Plugs out throttle wide open. Post up the numbers.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If the compression is good and you have spark, the next thing to do with Di skis is fuel pump pressure. At idle it is 107psi. CRITICAL to have this kind of pressure with Di engines.

 

[pinktexasbred]

I am familiar with the compression test but haven't tried the fuel pressure test, I'll need help with that please. I am assuming the battery needs replacing because I can't even perform the compression test as of now. Aside from the volt meter reading the battery, is there any other way to determine if it's the battery life resulting in not even being able to do the compression test? Thanks again guys!

 

[bdesim2]

T a gauge into the feed line going into the fuel rail. Should see 27 psi when key is inserted. Then the critical 107 while cranking and idling. In reality at WOT the pressure is a lot higher than 107.

 

[pinktexasbred]

I appreciate all the feed back, took the battery to get tested, came back good. I attempted the compression test but no read due to motor not even turning over long enough to take a reading. Your explanation of how to do the fuel pump test is still seeming like foreign language to me sorry :/.... Thanks again!

 

[pinktexasbred]

My numbers for compression test were 30 and 0 when I pulled one plug it looked silver and wet. Whats causing this? Any instructions for the fuel pressure test?

 

[Coastiejoe]

If it really is 30 and zero, you are done. Pull the head and see what's up.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Thanks! What's pull the head? Lol I'm so sorry for having to ask everyones responses be dumbed down further :/ I genuinely appreciate everyone's help and patience!

 

[pinktexasbred]

The last man I asked to help didn't follow my instructions while hooking up the water hose and I nearly knocked his head off! So it is just me working on these

 

[Coastiejoe]

You need a manual as you have limited knowledge. The fact you have 30 psi reading. (Assuming it is psi) and a Zero reading, it is impossible for the engine to start or run.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Yes I do have manuals for the seadoo section 6 is explaining the testing but it still seems like foreign language.

 

[Coastiejoe]

My point is, if your compression is at 30 and lower then nothing else matters. You have SERIOUSLY low compression. You need to open the engine up to see why. Even if you had perfect fuel pressure, it can not run.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Ok gotcha! I'll go over the manual for the top end, any specific parts to check?

 

[TLH101]

Compression should be somewhere between 120(low) and 150. If not, the motor likely has serious internal damage. It will likely need to be removed from the ski and completely rebuilt, or at the very least, a new top end (pistons and possibly cylinders).

 

[Coastiejoe]

The head is easy to remove while in the ski. IMO, that is the first thing to do so you can see what the Pistons and cylinders look like.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Ok so when you said pull the head you actually mean take out :/ Coastiejoe you helped me threw last time, thanks again! I'm trying to keep it simple and less work for everyone helping me! THL101 thank you as well! When I was browsing threw threw threads I noticed we had the same ski! Once I get around to pulling it out I'll post!

 

[Coastiejoe]

You do not need to pull the engine to pull the head. If you pull the engine you will need to "Align" it with an alignment tool. For now, pull the head only. This will let you see the inside and leave the lower end in place.

 

[pinktexasbred]

Ok so I'll be going of the manual top end portion?

 

[pinktexasbred]

So far I've pulled out the rave valves and the end closer to the front of the ski is covered in black oil and the other doesn't have hardly ass much as the other, is this normal?