• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

02 GTX DI won't start

Status
Not open for further replies.
Quite frankly the person that sold you this ski, sold you an engine pieced together from several engines. You can tell just from looking at the pictures in your previous thread.
What I would do is not worry about pulling the head. With your limited knowledge I would download a manual and read up on engine removal. Get a friend to help you get the engine out, bag and tag all the bolts, nuts, washers and parts. Tag all electrical as you disconnect, then send the old engine off to SBT while they send you a new rebuilt engine.
Reinstall the new rebuilt engine and enjoy for years to come.
 
I don't know about "pieced together". Looks like a silver painted short block, (maybe SBT, maybe not) with the old original head and exhaust manifold. Perfectly normal.
 
I don't know about "pieced together". Looks like a silver painted short block, (maybe SBT, maybe not) with the old original head and exhaust manifold. Perfectly normal.

I know...pieced together. I own 4 DI machines, have gone completely through 3 of them getting ready to tackle the latest addition to the fleet. Have never seen a white DI motor before must less white DI engine parts.
Also 150psi compression is high for a DI. Perfect compression is 140psi. Border line is 120.

Check out this previous thread.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?84631-Seadoo-suddenly-stopped-going-past-15-mph
 
Thanks for all the input, So is the oil good or bad? I tried researching this but couldn't find a solid answer. I didn't find it in the manual either. As far as buying an entire engine I would feel EXTREEMLY foolish if I didn't try everything in my power to avoid this cost. I'm just hoping and praying it's something simple or at least not costly. I am really not one to ask for help but I'm really in a bind here and have no one really to ask for "mechanical" advice and I went out on a whim posting to this site and have been very pleased with the help. Even if I bought the engine what it wasn't an engine issue and something else :/ Thanks again guys.
 
Oil is not bad. The rave valve and spark plug that is clean is a concern. After re reading it is possible (small possibility) that you have a blown head gasket causing a steam wash of the spark plug and rave valve. (Doubtful)
As Coastie mentioned remove the head and look down in the cylinders. I am about 90% sure you are going to find heavy cylinder scoring as well as bad pistons.

Remove the fuel rail and lay it off to the side.
You will only need to remove the air line going into the rear of the fuel rail to lay it out of the way. One Allen screw and keeper. There are two bolts holding the fuel rail onto the head. Don't remove the two injectors inside the head. Loosen all the bolts holding the head onto the cylinders. You will need a torx socket. After removing the bolts you will have to use a screwdriver to pry the head up and off the two dowel pins. There will be a place on the side between the head and the cylinders to place the screwdriver. Shouldn't take much to get it off.
Post pictures of the cylinders when you get the head off. Post a picture of the underside of the head also.
image.jpg

Remove The black hose just in front of the red hose. Remove the wires on top of fuel rail not the injectors, then the two bolts.
 
Ok so far I've managed to disconnect the fuel rail sort of, I was looking threw the manual and it's saying there is a specific order to take these bolts out as well as using a torque wrench to reattach. Before I go throwing my tools at this engine is there anything I shouldn't do or should do while taking this piece apart? I'm having trouble with the fuel rail I've removed the bolts and the air inlet hose and have taken it off but cannot comfortable rest the rail anywhere to access the bolts on the head due to the fuel inlet hose. Can I disconnect this as well?
 
Head bolts? Loosening not so much in a certain order. Loosen a bolt then tighten it back up about 1/2 to 2/3 tight. Repeat this process for all the bolts. Then loosen them a little more or all the way.

Sometimes when loosening the bolts you get to the last two and they are extremely tight and will not budge. By tightening the other bolts about half relieves the pressure on the last two bolts.
 
Just follow the head tightening sequence in the manual but in reverse. Loosen them in a couple steps not just one bolt all the way like jh said.
 
I am waiting for a friend to come help because I for the life of me cannot make a nudge in turning these bolts, I did get in touch with the previous owner he said he replaced the top end 2 yrs ago. I let him know what I was doing and he said everything I took off I need to replace not reuse. Is this true? Do I need to order the parts I've already dissembled?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top