01 xp 951 Carb Clean

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One way you test the accelerator pump is by manually pushing the lever while it is primed with wd-40 and the little lines hooked up. The spray ports( aka injectors) are in the little brass tubes that protrude into the carb throat near the choke plates.
The other way to test the accelerator pump and the associated check valves is with your pressure tester. In the manual it shows all the procedures. I could describe the procedures, but its easier for you to just look in the manual. If you don't have it yet, just download it from this site.
One note about the manual though. It says the injectors should hold pressure up to 13 PSI (plus or minus 3 PSI) before releasing into the carb throat. I found that mine only hold about 1-3 PSI period. I also have a 2nd set of carbs that are brand new in the box that test at 1-3 PSI. So that part of the manual may be a misprint. If anyone knows better, please chime in.
Great, I will look into those tests this weekend. Thank you!
 
You can re-use adjuster screws unless they're grooved or damaged. That one in the upper left pics looks suspect. Does it have crud on it or is it grooved? Try cleaning it. If it cleans off and the tapered area is smooth, just replace the o-rings.
My bad. Its the lower left that looks suspect.
 
One way you test the accelerator pump is by manually pushing the lever while it is primed with wd-40 and the little lines hooked up. The spray ports( aka injectors) are in the little brass tubes that protrude into the carb throat near the choke plates.
The other way to test the accelerator pump and the associated check valves is with your pressure tester. In the manual it shows all the procedures. I could describe the procedures, but its easier for you to just look in the manual. If you don't have it yet, just download it from this site.
One note about the manual though. It says the injectors should hold pressure up to 13 PSI (plus or minus 3 PSI) before releasing into the carb throat. I found that mine only hold about 1-3 PSI period. I also have a 2nd set of carbs that are brand new in the box that test at 1-3 PSI. So that part of the manual may be a misprint. If anyone knows better, please chime in.
I'm confused here. I looked up the manual to test te accelerator pump and I think I hooked up the test correctly. However, I didn't even need to obstruct the outlet ( at least, I think it's the outlet) it held pressure great, but I didn't need to obstruct. Then I took the psi to 15 and no pressure release happened.
 

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One way you test the accelerator pump is by manually pushing the lever while it is primed with wd-40 and the little lines hooked up. The spray ports( aka injectors) are in the little brass tubes that protrude into the carb throat near the choke plates.
The other way to test the accelerator pump and the associated check valves is with your pressure tester. In the manual it shows all the procedures. I could describe the procedures, but its easier for you to just look in the manual. If you don't have it yet, just download it from this site.
One note about the manual though. It says the injectors should hold pressure up to 13 PSI (plus or minus 3 PSI) before releasing into the carb throat. I found that mine only hold about 1-3 PSI period. I also have a 2nd set of carbs that are brand new in the box that test at 1-3 PSI. So that part of the manual may be a misprint. If anyone knows better, please chime in.
Also, the injector test is confusing me. I hooked pressure to the injector and it never released.

Update: the other carbs injector had air flow almost immediately with hardly any pressure
 

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You don’t need to replace the accelerator lines. In fact the one on the bottom has a restrictor in it that has to be used.

The only test you need to do on the accelerator pump is to see if it’s squirting fuel. If not something is plugged.
 
You don’t need to replace the accelerator lines. In fact the one on the bottom has a restrictor in it that has to be used.

The only test you need to do on the accelerator pump is to see if it’s squirting fuel. If not something is plugged.
I'm sorry, I really am trying but I can't seem to figure out how to test this. Can you give me a dummy explanation? Do I hook pressure to #2, then hook a hose from #1 to #3? Part #3 has no flow through it at all. Part #3 (fuel injector??) On the other carb has air flow through it though
 

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Also, the injector test is confusing me. I hooked pressure to the injector and it never released.

Update: the other carbs injector had air flow almost immediately with hardly any pressure

It appears that injector is clogged or the check valve inside it is stuck. Try spraying wd40 in the nipple and then try to use the red straw from the wd40 can to reach up into the carb throat from underneath and put it against the injector port and try to spray into the port to back flush it.
 
I'm confused here. I looked up the manual to test te accelerator pump and I think I hooked up the test correctly. However, I didn't even need to obstruct the outlet ( at least, I think it's the outlet) it held pressure great, but I didn't need to obstruct. Then I took the psi to 15 and no pressure release happened.

It appears there is also a clog in the pump or a stuck internal check valve. No need to pressurize it to 15 PSI. In fact, that could potentially damage it. What happens when you have 4 PSI and you manually work the pump lever? Does it allow the pressure to pass through?
 
I'm sorry, I really am trying but I can't seem to figure out how to test this. Can you give me a dummy explanation? Do I hook pressure to #2, then hook a hose from #1 to #3? Part #3 has no flow through it at all. Part #3 (fuel injector??) On the other carb has air flow through it though
#2 in your drawing is the pump inlet, #1 is the outlet, and #3 I don't know, did you pull that from the carb body with pliers? or was it inline in the hose?

Another question for you...are you using unregulated compressed air to pressure test? It looked like you have an air line hooked up to your tester. If so, it may damage some parts. A manual pump is better for testing carbs.
 
It appears that injector is clogged or the check valve inside it is stuck. Try spraying wd40 in the nipple and then try to use the red straw from the wd40 can to reach up into the carb throat from underneath and put it against the injector port and try to spray into the port to back flush it.
That totally worked! Thank you!!
 
#2 in your drawing is the pump inlet, #1 is the outlet, and #3 I don't know, did you pull that from the carb body with pliers? or was it inline in the hose?

Another question for you...are you using unregulated compressed air to pressure test? It looked like you have an air line hooked up to your tester. If so, it may damage some parts. A manual pump is better for testing carbs.
It goes from 4 up to 5, then back down to 4. Back and forth as I pump the lever.

Yes, it's hooked to a bicycle pump
 
It goes from 4 up to 5, then back down to 4. Back and forth as I pump the lever.
If you put a schrader valve and a check valve before your "T" fitting, you can pump it up to a steady pressure and it will hold without back flowing back to your bike pump. You will need that to test things that require a certain pressure for a certain amount of time, like diaphragms, fuel pumps, fuel lines, etc. In my picture, disregard the relief valve with the pull ring, its not needed.
IMG_0389.jpg
 
It goes from 4 up to 5, then back down to 4. Back and forth as I pump the lever.

Yes, it's hooked to a bicycle pump

If your saying when the accelarator pump is holding at 4 psi with the tester hooked to the inlet and you press the lever, it goes to 5 psi on your gauge...that means the inlet check valve is allowing pressure to flow backwards and the outlet check valve is stuck closed. Maybe try the wd40 again...
 
If your saying when the accelarator pump is holding at 4 psi with the tester hooked to the inlet and you press the lever, it goes to 5 psi on your gauge...that means the inlet check valve is allowing pressure to flow backwards and the outlet check valve is stuck closed. Maybe try the wd40 again...
Yep, that's exactly what's happening. But the outlet isn't hooked up to the injectors, it's not hooked to anything, no line is hooked up to it at all. Both injectors pass air on their own, so I decided to not hook it up to the injectors to limit variables. I can run the test again with the outlet from the accelerator hooked to the injectors if you think itd make a difference.

Would putting wd-40 in the accelerator input and output help? Maybe they are clogged?
 
From your picture, the the one screw with just a slot on the end, is your high speed screw, and is missing the flat washer and O ring, like the other three. You do not need to order a new screw, I have never in my life, had to do that, unless the threads were messed( which has never happened) , Your kit will have the new O rings , but not the flat washer. It is possible the missing flat washer is actually stuck in the carb. Those O rings all develope a tapered shape. I usually carefully remove the the O ring in its original orientation, the flat washer, and spring, then I take the screw and lightly clean the threads on my brass wheel, or a brass hand brush. I replace the spring, washer, and O ring, and coat them with marine waterproof grease. The low and high speed screws should be able to rotate without a screw driver, just with your fingers. If not, repeat the procedure, till the screws turn smooth and easily.
 
Yep, that's exactly what's happening. But the outlet isn't hooked up to the injectors, it's not hooked to anything, no line is hooked up to it at all. Both injectors pass air on their own, so I decided to not hook it up to the injectors to limit variables. I can run the test again with the outlet from the accelerator hooked to the injectors if you think itd make a difference.

Would putting wd-40 in the accelerator input and output help? Maybe they are clogged?

No, don't bother hooking up the lines until you get the pump squirting. Yes, I would try putting wd40 into the pump through both the inlet and outlet nipples. It sounds like there is a clog or a stuck check valve inside and maybe the wd40 will loosen it up.
 
From your picture, the the one screw with just a slot on the end, is your high speed screw, and is missing the flat washer and O ring, like the other three. You do not need to order a new screw, I have never in my life, had to do that, unless the threads were messed( which has never happened) , Your kit will have the new O rings , but not the flat washer. It is possible the missing flat washer is actually stuck in the carb. Those O rings all develope a tapered shape. I usually carefully remove the the O ring in its original orientation, the flat washer, and spring, then I take the screw and lightly clean the threads on my brass wheel, or a brass hand brush. I replace the spring, washer, and O ring, and coat them with marine waterproof grease. The low and high speed screws should be able to rotate without a screw driver, just with your fingers. If not, repeat the procedure, till the screws turn smooth and easily.
Awesome, great advice. Thank you very much!
 
No, don't bother hooking up the lines until you get the pump squirting. Yes, I would try putting wd40 into the pump through both the inlet and outlet nipples. It sounds like there is a clog or a stuck check valve inside and maybe the wd40 will loosen it up.
Awesome, I'll try that tomorrow morning. Thanks
 
No, don't bother hooking up the lines until you get the pump squirting. Yes, I would try putting wd40 into the pump through both the inlet and outlet nipples. It sounds like there is a clog or a stuck check valve inside and maybe the wd40 will loosen it up.
I couldn't help myself, I went out and used wd40 on both inlet and outlet, no luck. I opened the accelerator to see what was going on. When I spray wd40 into the inlet, it goes into the accelerator body through the red check valve and stays in the body. So I sprayed wd40 in the body and closed it back up. Pressurized the accelerator to 4 psi via the input and now there is no pressure change when I manually pump it. I'm going to let the wd40 sit in the body overnight to see if it will break up the outlet, which is where I assume the blockage is. :( Hopefully it'll work

How far can I push my small pipe cleaner brush into the outlet? Is there something I could break if I go to far,?
 

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I couldn't help myself, I went out and used wd40 on both inlet and outlet, no luck. I opened the accelerator to see what was going on. When I spray wd40 into the inlet, it goes into the accelerator body through the red check valve and stays in the body. So I sprayed wd40 in the body and closed it back up. Pressurized the accelerator to 4 psi via the input and now there is no pressure change when I manually pump it. I'm going to let the wd40 sit in the body overnight to see if it will break up the outlet, which is where I assume the blockage is. :( Hopefully it'll work

How far can I push my small pipe cleaner brush into the outlet? Is there something I could break if I go to far,?

I don't know if the outlet check valve has soft material that can be damaged or if its made of all metal. I would be hesitant to stick anything in it. Before doing anything like that, do a parts search to make sure replacements are available. I think you did the right thing by letting it sit overnight in wd40.

Have you tried applying vacuum to the outlet nipple?
 
I don't know if the outlet check valve has soft material that can be damaged or if its made of all metal. I would be hesitant to stick anything in it. Before doing anything like that, do a parts search to make sure replacements are available. I think you did the right thing by letting it sit overnight in wd40.

Have you tried applying vacuum to the outlet nipple?
No, unfortunately, I don't have a way to vacuum
 
First never ever use starting fluid on a 2-stroke.

On your ski pull the oil tank up and out of the way.

Next pull the plastic and rubber boots off the air box. Next the cotter pin on the middle top of the air box. You can now pull the air box off the carbs and slide it forward out where the oil tank was. It will seem impossible then all the sudden it will be out.

Pull the carbs and do not pull the pipe.

Buy the full back to OEM kits with needle and seats, fuel selector, fuel strainer from OSD Seadoo.

Follow my carb rebuild thread exactly in the sticky section above.

If you have gray fuel lines they have to be completely replaced.

Also make sure you are only using API-TC full synthetic oil. If it’s blue or green it’s wrong.

I would also check compression because low compression can cause hard starting.

I don’t agree with the statement if it’s blue or green oil it’s wrong. I use Amsoil 100% synthetic and it’s blue. Nothing wrong with using that oil at all..
 
I couldn't help myself, I went out and used wd40 on both inlet and outlet, no luck. I opened the accelerator to see what was going on. When I spray wd40 into the inlet, it goes into the accelerator body through the red check valve and stays in the body. So I sprayed wd40 in the body and closed it back up. Pressurized the accelerator to 4 psi via the input and now there is no pressure change when I manually pump it. I'm going to let the wd40 sit in the body overnight to see if it will break up the outlet, which is where I assume the blockage is. :( Hopefully it'll work

How far can I push my small pipe cleaner brush into the outlet? Is there something I could break if I go to far,?

In one of your pics, it looks like your outlet nipple has a hex shape on it. Is it a threaded fitting that unscrews?

edit: never mind... I zoomed in on some earlier pics and can see that it is not hex shaped. It was some missing paint giving me an optical illusion
 
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You don’t need to pressurize anything or pressure test anything.

Hose 2 in your picture is badly crimped and also has to have the restricted jet in it from the old hose.

Second there’s no reason to replace the old hoses as they don’t go bad.

As long as the pump pulls fuel from hose 2 and squirts it through the two nozzles into the tops of the carbs it’s fine. The only things that plug are the nozzles on the tops of the cards and the check ball in the pump.
 
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