01 xp 951 Carb Clean
- Thread starter Toona
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I pulled the accelerator from my other carb. I'm still on the search for that little red umbrella valve. I'm stricking out everywhere.
Also, the machine dies at idle, even if I hold the choke out all the way. Not sure if my choke settings are wrong or if I have another problem. Maybe the idle screw?
It could be the idle screw, the mixture screws, a vacuum leak, bubbles in the fuel line from a hose connection or fuel selector valve, or a host of other things.
There is something I'm still wondering about. In an earlier pic, you marked a part as #3. It looked like an elbow that had been pressed into the carb body. Was that one of the injector check valves, or was that from the PTO carb fuel chamber? My next question is how did you get it back in and are you sure it isn't leaking?
If its not running right, beware of the runaway. Be ready to pull the dess key and choke it in case it runs away on the trailer. Some hose pinching pliers would be nice to have on hand too so you can quickly pinch the fuel line if choking it doesn't stop it.
A big vacuum leak like from a crooked carb base gasket or the idle speed screw up to high can cause it.
ah64driver2002
Member
Yes that's the one. Osd parts have several listed on their site under that number
Yes, it was the injector valve. It is kind of ribbed so you can pull it out with pliers and push it back in with gentle tapping. I tested it a lot and there was no leak.
I should note, at idle, it sits about 600 rpm and struggled and dies. I put a band on the throttle to keep it at 1000 and it ran fine for about 30 minutes
Thanks so much, found it
Are those idle speeds in the water or out of the water? The rpms should be 1200-1500 at idle in the water. I have mine set at about 1400.
It sounds like the idle speed screw is probably out of adjustment. Did you adjust it or turn it when you had the carbs out?
A word of caution, if it was running on the hose , the ski shouldn't be run on the hose for that long. Even though the engine is being cooled, the driveshaft seal isn't being cooled and the jet pump bearings and seal aren't being cooled as much as when they're in the water.
Ok, cool that the injector valve is tight and not leaking.
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It was on land. Do I just turn the screws on the top of te carbs to fix that idle rpm?
Thank you for clarifying running it on land. I'll take better care thinking it on land
Where is the oil pump adjustment? I'm sorry, I don't see any adjuster on the oil reservoir
ah64driver2002
Member
Not familiar with your ski but I dont think you should be running it for that long out of the water. If it has the carbon seal on the driveshaft like my 96 ski's do you will burn it up with no cooling water. Manual for you ski says 3000 out of the water 1500 in the water. Wont allow me to upload a screenshot of the manual but say you need to connect an induction type tach to msg side spark plug then adjust idle screw
ah64driver2002
Member
There are lines on oil pump lever and oil pump that should be lined up. If not need to adjust the cable that attaches to the oil pump but have to get your idle correct first. If you havent already I would get a copy of your manual that will be easiest way to see how to do these things you are asking about. Seadoomanuals.net is the site I believe or just google manual for ur ski
Okay, I got the idle at 3k
I think I found the adjustment screw
Thank you for the advice, I'll follow this guide to adjust. Adelman, thank you
Yes, it's a 2-stroke so the smoke is perfectly normal.
First of all, never run your ski on the hose for more than a minute or two or you will burn up the driveshaft seal.
#2 Your idle should be set at 2,800 rpm on the trailer, no more and no less. Do not set it at 3,000 rpm as the book says or it will very likely run away on you.
#3 you adjust the oil pump with the plastic cable adjuster on your model, not at the pump.
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Thank you, you put my mind at ease
If you can't find the accelerator pump check valve, its not the end of the world.
You could possibly put an inline check valve in the inlet hose, rated for fuel and proper pressure of course. I've never tried it, but why wouldn't it work?
Or...You can cap the nipple on the carb that supplies the accelerator pump and cap the nipple on the pump so air isn't sucked in, then re-jet the carbs. Others have done this and it works.
Yeah, I always thought 3000 was too high...I've got mine set approx 2800 too
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Good to know, I may go this way because I'm running into wall after wall. Would an inline check valve rated at like 4psi be good?
I came across this at Summit.... It might be worth calling them to ask them the dimensions and maybe ordering one to see if fits.
Also, USPlastic dot com has check valves in polypropylene with viton seals in different sizes and relief pressures. Of course, its up to you to research them and make sure they will work for your application and be safe to use. They have a phone number on their site.
Also, USPlastic dot com has check valves in polypropylene with viton seals in different sizes and relief pressures. Of course, its up to you to research them and make sure they will work for your application and be safe to use. They have a phone number on their site.
4 PSI cracking pressure I think would be too high on the inlet side. I would think it would take as low a cracking pressure as possible like somewhere in the .25 PSI to .5 PSI range. The idea would be to allow fuel to flow in as easily as possible. If anyone knows better, please chime in. Think about how much pressure it takes to open that umbrella valve...
You could always take the cover off your working accelerator pump and pressure test your inlet nipple to see what pressure it takes to open the umbrella valve... You can't do it with the cover on because then you'll be working against the cracking pressure of the outlet check valve.
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