01 xp 951 Carb Clean

[Toona]

I just bought my first pwc's and I got 2 2001 xp 951's. One starts great and stays running. The other, from the previous owner, stood you have to start it the first time by spraying starter fluid down the spark plugs. It does work when that is done but I don't want to need to do that. From what I've read it sounds like the carb needs cleaned.

Unfortunately, I'm trying to learn small engines on this machine and I'm having difficulty finding a guide on how to pull the carb so I can get in there to clean it. Anyone that knows of a way to get the carb would be helping me out a ton.

 

[mikidymac]

First never ever use starting fluid on a 2-stroke.

On your ski pull the oil tank up and out of the way.

Next pull the plastic and rubber boots off the air box. Next the cotter pin on the middle top of the air box. You can now pull the air box off the carbs and slide it forward out where the oil tank was. It will seem impossible then all the sudden it will be out.

Pull the carbs and do not pull the pipe.

Buy the full back to OEM kits with needle and seats, fuel selector, fuel strainer from OSD Seadoo.

Follow my carb rebuild thread exactly in the sticky section above.

If you have gray fuel lines they have to be completely replaced.

Also make sure you are only using API-TC full synthetic oil. If it’s blue or green it’s wrong.

I would also check compression because low compression can cause hard starting.

 

[Toona]

Awesome, thank you!

 

[Toona]

First never ever use starting fluid on a 2-stroke.

On your ski pull the oil tank up and out of the way.

Next pull the plastic and rubber boots off the air box. Next the cotter pin on the middle top of the air box. You can now pull the air box off the carbs and slide it forward out where the oil tank was. It will seem impossible then all the sudden it will be out.

Pull the carbs and do not pull the pipe.

Buy the full back to OEM kits with needle and seats, fuel selector, fuel strainer from OSD Seadoo.

Follow my carb rebuild thread exactly in the sticky section above.

If you have gray fuel lines they have to be completely replaced.

Also make sure you are only using API-TC full synthetic oil. If it’s blue or green it’s wrong.

I would also check compression because low compression can cause hard starting.

Also, this may be a dumb question but what happens if compression is low? Anything I can do or is that a good time to take it to the shop? Because pulling and rebuilding the carb will be the most extensive small engine work I have done; also, that will also be the hardest thing I tackle in this engine.

Also, as far as I can tell, all fuel lines are black. You can look in the pictures in my previous post, but if you're saying gray,as in the color, the appear black to me

 

[Toona]

Sorry, I just read your sticky and saw those gray fuel lines.

 

[Toona]

Pull the carbs and do not pull the pipe.

will the carb pull straight out? Any screws , hoses, etc. To worry about? As for "don't pull the pipe" do I have to be careful, does the pipe come off easily? Or, are you just saying avoid pulling the pipe to make the removal easy?

sorry, I'm so new to all of this

 

[mikidymac]

Just a few Allan bolts to hold them on.
The pipe is bolted on and is secure but some people think removing it will make the carbs easier but it’s just a big can of worms you don’t want to open

 

[Toona]

Just a few Allan bolts to hold them on.
The pipe is bolted on and is secure but some people think removing it will make the carbs easier but it’s just a big can of worms you don’t want to open

Perfect, thank you very much for your help. Your input has been very valuable

 

[FL-Rider]

Removing the carbs will be done mostly by feel and not sight. You won't be able to see because the pipe is in the way. You will have to feel for the allan bolts. Once you have them loosened, do not pull them out until you get the washer under your finger tip or fingernail. Make sure to hold the washer against the underside of the bolt head as you pull out the bolt. Otherwise you could lose them down the intake opening when you lift the carbs out.
When re-installing the carbs, make sure the accelerator pump fuel line doesn't get pinched by the back bolt on the PTO carb when your tightening it by feel. It happened to me and I put a hole in the line when I did it.

 

[FL-Rider]

A couple other tips: Tip one: The throttle cable and oil pump cable have an adjuster nut on each side of the bracket. Only loosen the nut on the rear facing side to remove cables. Don't move the forward facing nuts. Its easier to do that after you've lifted the carbs off the engine and moved them forward a little bit..
That way you don't have to re-adjust your cables when you re-install the carb. However, you should still learn how to check your oil pump adjustment and verify it is correct after carb reinstallation.
Tip 2: the plastic tee for the return fuel hose can break easily. Take the return hose off with care. Carefully twist the hose to break it loose before pulling. Use a small hook tool or similar tool to help release the hose if it is stuck to the fitting.

 

[Toona]

Just a few Allan bolts to hold them on.
The pipe is bolted on and is secure but some people think removing it will make the carbs easier but it’s just a big can of worms you don’t want to open

Thank you for the tip, I made sure I did this after reading this

 

[Toona]

A couple other tips: Tip one: The throttle cable and oil pump cable have an adjuster nut on each side of the bracket. Only loosen the nut on the rear facing side to remove cables. Don't move the forward facing nuts. Its easier to do that after you've lifted the carbs off the engine and moved them forward a little bit..
That way you don't have to re-adjust your cables when you re-install the carb. However, you should still learn how to check your oil pump adjustment and verify it is correct after carb reinstallation.
Tip 2: the plastic tee for the return fuel hose can break easily. Take the return hose off with care. Carefully twist the hose to break it loose before pulling. Use a small hook tool or similar tool to help release the hose if it is stuck to the fitting.

Well, I didn't see this before so I loosened them, both, so i guess I'll get to learn

 

[Toona]

Okay, thanks to all your help, it's removed. I assume I'll need to open this up to see whether I need to clean or rebuild the carb. I'll continue to follow the guide @mikidymac suggested I follow. However, I'm guessing it won't be good because the base gaskets are cracked and when I tried to remove them they fell apart. Hopefully, I wasn't supposed to touch that... because it's ruined now. I included 2 pictures of what I believe are the base gaskets

Also, anything special I need to use to clean the oil reservoir? I've included pictures, but it doesn't look good

 

[Toona]

Also, I see these gray lines I'm supposed to replace. I see the big one is 6.4mm but I don't know the other two. I'm guessing the smaller one is 1/4". If so, is this a good replacement? PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 25 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVNYUUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N6NFDbD1B8CRM

 

[drjack]

When you replace these grey tempo lines, check for an inline restrictor that maybe added. I believe there's one inside the fuel line going to the input side of the accelerator pump.

 

[Toona]

When you replace these grey tempo lines, check for an inline restrictor that maybe added. I believe there's one inside the fuel line going to the input side of the accelerator pump.

Like one of those lines that were in the carb? Or one coming from the tank

 

[FL-Rider]

The small diameter lines are ok. They are your accelerator pump lines. They are not the grey Tempo lines that deteriorate inside. The 1/4 ID lines between the carb bodies are the ones to replace.

edit: i just looked closer and saw one got damaged during removal. Well, too late...

 

[FL-Rider]

If your gaskets fell apart and fell into the openings, you can use a mirror, flashlight, and vacuum. The pieces will get caught by the reed valves, so you will be able to get them out.

 

[FL-Rider]

Also, I see these gray lines I'm supposed to replace. I see the big one is 6.4mm but I don't know the other two. I'm guessing the smaller one is 1/4". If so, is this a good replacement? PRO 1 Fuel Line Hose 1/4 Inch Inside Diameter X 25 Feet Length NRB/PVCC SAE30R6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVNYUUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N6NFDbD1B8CRM

That looks like regular automotive fuel line available at any auto parts store. Its what has been in mine for the last 15 years. If you want to go by the book however, then marine fuel line is the proper replacement due to its vapor transmission properties. You'll need 1/4"ID and 5/16" ID. Unless I missed something, your earlier pic showed a water line coming off the exhaust pipe, not a fuel line. See if the fuel supply line and fuel return line coming off your carb are the gray Tempo lines. If they are, then you have to replace them all the way to the tank. Fun job, but necessary. Download the manual at this time because you'll have to lift the seat to access the tank and that will require you have the manual.

 

[Toona]

The small diameter lines are ok. They are your accelerator pump lines. They are not the grey Tempo lines that deteriorate inside. The 1/4 ID lines between the carb bodies are the ones to replace.

edit: i just looked closer and saw one got damaged during removal. Well, too late...

Yep, they all need replaced. Thank you

 

[Toona]

Okay, I've got it all taken apart. Thank you @mikidymac for your guide.

Clearly, since I'm asking you all a million questions, I'm not sure how things look in here. Here is a link to all the pictures as I disassembled. Google Drive Link

Since I have no idea, I was going to get this rebuild kit to replace everything.

As a reminder, this was all done to check and see if there was a carb problem as when I received this ski he told me the only way to start the machine was to spray starter fluid down the spark plugs. (which I have been told over and over NOT to do, so I haven't). When he did it to show me, it did in fact start with starter fluid and would rev up fine, but would sometimes sputter out when it went down to idle around 1000 rpm's.

Anyway, in the guide from @mikidymac he had pictures of horrible looking parts. To my untrained eye, mine actually looked decent. Either way, thank you all again for your help. If you all think it's best to buy that rebuild kit, I'll do it.

 

[Toona]

If your gaskets fell apart and fell into the openings, you can use a mirror, flashlight, and vacuum. The pieces will get caught by the reed valves, so you will be able to get them out.

As you probably know, I don't know anything about any of this so I'm learning. Maybe I used the wrong phrases or referenced the wrong product but there seemed to be a gasket on the carb and a crusty gasket on the carb inlet on the engine block. The ones that were on the carbs look great, its the ones on the engine block that are crusty and falling apart. I've included the pictures of the ones that concern me

 

[Toona]

That looks like regular automotive fuel line available at any auto parts store. Its what has been in mine for the last 15 years. If you want to go by the book however, then marine fuel line is the proper replacement due to its vapor transmission properties. You'll need 1/4"ID and 5/16" ID. Unless I missed something, your earlier pic showed a water line coming off the exhaust pipe, not a fuel line. See if the fuel supply line and fuel return line coming off your carb are the gray Tempo lines. If they are, then you have to replace them all the way to the tank. Fun job, but necessary. Download the manual at this time because you'll have to lift the seat to access the tank and that will require you have the manual.

I did measurements and found this as the three size tubes on the carb (which I will need to replace as I destroyed them getting them off:
Big tube: 7/16 OD 1/4 ID
Medium Tube: 5/16 OD 3/16 ID
Small Tubes: 1/4 OD 1/8 ID

I didn't see any tubes that had 5/16 ID. Was the 5/16 needed if there were Tempo lines from the tank? I haven't checked those diameters, but they are definitely the gray tempo lines.

 

[FL-Rider]

Yes, the 5/16" ID hose I mentioned goes from the tank, to the selector valve, through the fuel strainer, to the carb. If those lines are gray Tempo, you have to replace. The Tempo lines detriorate inside and clog up your internal carb filters. They also harden up to the point they feel like hard plastic. They're supposed to be soft and flexible so they can seal well at the connections. The return line is the one that you disconnected from the plastic "T" on the carb when you took the carbs off. It is 1/4" ID and goes back to the tank.
The gaskets you mentioned are carburetor base gaskets. Replace both of them. They're cheap. I always keep several extra just in case I need them.
The rebuild kits you linked are risky. I got off-brand rebuild kits once and the oring sizes were off slightly and the diaphragms were slightly different from the originals. I didn't use them. Get genuine Mikuni, unless you're willing to gamble on pulling the carbs apart a bunch of times. Each time you pull them apart you'll have to water test the boat and spend a bunch of time adjusting and tuning. You can get the genuine ones through this site. The links for parts and manuals are at the top of the page.

 

[Toona]

Yes, the 5/16" ID hose I mentioned goes from the tank, to the selector valve, through the fuel strainer, to the carb. If those lines are gray Tempo, you have to replace. The Tempo lines detriorate inside and clog up your internal carb filters. They also harden up to the point they feel like hard plastic. They're supposed to be soft and flexible so they can seal well at the connections. The return line is the one that you disconnected from the plastic "T" on the carb when you took the carbs off. It is 1/4" ID and goes back to the tank.
The gaskets you mentioned are carburetor base gaskets. Replace both of them. They're cheap. I always keep several extra just in case I need them.
The rebuild kits you linked are risky. I got off-brand rebuild kits once and the oring sizes were off slightly and the diaphragms were slightly different from the originals. I didn't use them. Get genuine Mikuni, unless you're willing to gamble on pulling the carbs apart a bunch of times. Each time you pull them apart you'll have to water test the boat and spend a bunch of time adjusting and tuning. You can get the genuine ones through this site. The links for parts and manuals are at the top of the page.

Thank you, I changed my order to genuine mikuni dual carb kit. I also got needles and the gaskets as well as the 5/16 ID hose. I really hope all this helps solve the problem. Thank you for your help