01 xp 951 Carb Clean

[FL-Rider]

I looked at your pics. The needle valve is worn out. It has a groove in it.
On pic 163734 there is a black plastic cylinder recessed in to the carb body. Its at the 12:00 position under the clear fuel pump diaphragm. Thats your internal filter. Pull it out and see if it is clogged. There is one in each carburetor.
On pic 161942, that diaphragm looks stretched and worn out.
Definately rebuild them and get new needle&seats.

 

[FL-Rider]

No problem. Good luck. One more note, read the manual about fuel system pressure test. After you put on the lines, you should pressure test to make sure you have no leaks. Keep us posted on how it goes.

 

[Toona]

I looked at your pics. The needle valve is worn out. It has a groove in it.
On pic 163734 there is a black plastic cylinder recessed in to the carb body. Its at the 12:00 position under the clear fuel pump diaphragm. Thats your internal filter. Pull it out and see if it is clogged. There is one in each carburetor.
On pic 161942, that diaphragm looks stretched and worn out.
Definately rebuild them and get new needle&seats.

So glad you said all this because I ordered the genuine rebuild kit and genuine needles and seats. I'll try not to bug you guys until I'm done with the rebuild.

However, I have from a picture I already posted but here it is again, but when I started taking the carb apart these thinner ones came out. Are these supposed to be together in one piece, but have separated. Admittedly, I didn't see them so when I was taking the carb apart they just fell off and I'm not even sure what side of the carb they go back on to.

I bought this hoping it was the correct replacement for the 2 thin pieces and the 2 crusty gaskets I sent pictures of

 

[FL-Rider]

I think those go under the plate that connects the two carbs.
If you have questions, always feel free to ask. We don't mind sharing information.

 

[Toona]

I'm a bit concerned. I ordered this
Genuine Mikuni Dual Carb Carburetor Rebuild Kit Seadoo 951 XP GSX GTX RX LRV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K84YFLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3aCGDbFD9S5P8

However, my mylar film is shaped differently. Will this be a problem?

 

[FL-Rider]

The pic in the amazon ad looks like its not for the MKBN46I. They could have just used a stock photo of the other mikuni rebuild kits in the ad, and may send you the correct ones. Or, they may have made a mistake when listing the machines the kits are compatible with. You'll have to contact the seller to make sure they are sending the right ones.

 

[mikidymac]

The MK-BN41i kit has two of the mylar sheets, one with holes and one without, make sure you are using the correct one in the correct place.

Also what is all that brown stuff on yours in the picture? Everything should be clean and spotless.

 

[Toona]

The MK-BN41i kit has two of the mylar sheets, one with holes and one without, make sure you are using the correct one in the correct place.

Also what is all that brown stuff on yours in the picture? Everything should be clean and spotless.
View attachment 44394

Wish I knew, that's just what I pulled out of the carb

 

[Toona]

The MK-BN41i kit has two of the mylar sheets, one with holes and one without, make sure you are using the correct one in the correct place.

Also what is all that brown stuff on yours in the picture? Everything should be clean and spotless.
View attachment 44394

If the rest of the kit is good, can I just clean and reuse those dirty mylar sheath's

Edit: I've come this far, so I ordered this: SeaDoo GENUINE Dual Mikuni Carb Rebuild Kit SBN-I 46mm 951 XP GTX RX MK-BN46I
If the one that comes from Amazon is actually good and works it's no big deal, I'll use this one on my other ski. Just bummed I'm out of the water for an extra week

 

[mikidymac]

I would not reuse the mylar sheets.
If you bought the Mikuni kit it will have them in it. You bought the kit correct?

 

[Toona]

The mikuni kit from Amazon had then but they were in fact the wrong kits. I was being impatient so I'm going to wait for my new kit from pwcparts.com I spoke with them and ensured they were the correct kits. While I wait, I'm going to re-do the tempo fuel lines.

Thanks

 

[Toona]

I would not reuse the mylar sheets.
If you bought the Mikuni kit it will have them in it. You bought the kit correct?

Well, good news. The previous owner had a genuine mikuni rebuild kit, so I'm diving in. I've cleaned the jets with brake cleaner. All the parts are cleaned but I'm stuck on one thing from your guide. You show brake cleaner flowing from the 3 small holes and 1 larger hole (a picture of the part of the guide is attached) Where are you spraying the brake cleaner into to get flow from these holes. This is the least part I have to clean

 

[mikidymac]

You spray into the hole where the small brass pilot jet threads into, but you have to screw in the low speed needle adjuster a few threads to build pressure out ot the ports. If you leave the low speed adjuster out the cleaner will just go out that hole instead of through the little bypass holes you are trying to clean.

 

[Toona]

You spray into the hole where the small brass pilot jet threads into, but you have to screw in the low speed needle adjuster a few threads to build pressure out ot the ports. If you leave the low speed adjuster out the cleaner will just go out that hole instead of through the little bypass holes you are trying to clean.

Perfect. Just the pilot jet, not the main jet? What about the PTO? Do I spray brake cleaner anywhere down the PTO?

 

[Toona]

You spray into the hole where the small brass pilot jet threads into, but you have to screw in the low speed needle adjuster a few threads to build pressure out ot the ports. If you leave the low speed adjuster out the cleaner will just go out that hole instead of through the little bypass holes you are trying to clean.

Also, the stock high low needle settings from the link you posted on the carb rebuild sticky shows:
LOW- 1-1/2 HIGH- 0
Does that mean the high needle, which I think is on the PTO, is tightened all the way with no rotations to back it out?

 

[mikidymac]

You have two carbs, the MAG is on the front cylinder ant the PTO is on the rear cylinder. They both get cleaned the same way.

The LOW needle is towards the throttle plate end of the carb and the HIGH needle is towards the choke plate and on the opposite side.

Yes, to set them turn them in until they gently stop, don't crank them down then counterclockwise the number of turns indicated.

Also if you have accelerator pumps clean them. Don't get cleaner on the pump diaphragm and make sure you have fuel squirting out of the spray ports on the top of the carb when you pump them.

 

[Toona]

You have two carbs, the MAG is on the front cylinder ant the PTO is on the rear cylinder. They both get cleaned the same way.

The LOW needle is towards the throttle plate end of the carb and the HIGH needle is towards the choke plate and on the opposite side.

Yes, to set them turn them in until they gently stop, don't crank them down then counterclockwise the number of turns indicated.

Also if you have accelerator pumps clean them. Don't get cleaner on the pump diaphragm and make sure you have fuel squirting out of the spray ports on the top of the carb when you pump them.

How do I know if I have an accelerator? So, from this picture, high is on the left and low is on the right?

 

[Toona]

My carb looked different than the guide but if I'm doing this right, mine pops at 25 and holds at 21. My popoff is 19-23, so I guess I need to bend the arm up a little? Does needle valve position have anything to do with popoff psi?

 

[mikidymac]

How do I know if I have an accelerator? So, from this picture, high is on the left and low is on the right?

Nope those a both the low speed screws because they are closest to the throttle plates.

The high speed screws will be on the other side and closer to the choke plates.

You have an accelerator pump it’s connected with the little hoses.

 

[mikidymac]

Just try to get them to pop within a pound or two of each other. Don’t bend the arm too much.

 

[Toona]

Nope those a both the low speed screws because they are closest to the throttle plates.

The high speed screws will be on the other side and closer to the choke plates.

You have an accelerator pump it’s connected with the little hoses.

Oh crap, I only got two new screws, guess I need 4. But I'm confused, above someone suggested I get new needles and seats. So I got this (New Mikuni Twin Carb 2 Pack Needle Valve Seat Sea Doo 951 RX LRV XP GSX GTX LTD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHI4XAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z-XGDb7C58BMC ) However, sounds like I need 2 high speed and 2low speed screws, but I can't find them. From here ( 2001 Sea-Doo XP, 5530/5531 Carburetors | Sea-Doo Warehouse ) I see part 33 low speed screws but not high speed. Well, I put it all back together, once I get 2 more screws I'll hope i did this all right. They were both popping at 23. I hooked all the hoses back up and they still popped at 23, so hopefully it's all correct.

Here are the 4 original screws, I have 2 new ones as well. Should I order another 2 or do you think 2 of these 4 are still good enough to use?

 

[Toona]

make sure you have fuel squirting out of the spray ports on the top of the carb when you pump them.

How would I test this? Any other tests I should run before I get the carbs back in? They popoff at the right psi and both hold pressure so I know the diaphragm isn't holding the needle open

 

[FL-Rider]

Oh crap, I only got two new screws, guess I need 4. But I'm confused, above someone suggested I get new needles and seats. So I got this (New Mikuni Twin Carb 2 Pack Needle Valve Seat Sea Doo 951 RX LRV XP GSX GTX LTD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHI4XAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z-XGDb7C58BMC ) However, sounds like I need 2 high speed and 2low speed screws, but I can't find them. From here ( 2001 Sea-Doo XP, 5530/5531 Carburetors | Sea-Doo Warehouse ) I see part 33 low speed screws but not high speed. Well, I put it all back together, once I get 2 more screws I'll hope i did this all right. They were both popping at 23. I hooked all the hoses back up and they still popped at 23, so hopefully it's all correct.

Here are the 4 original screws, I have 2 new ones as well. Should I order another 2 or do you think 2 of these 4 are still good enough to use?

You can re-use adjuster screws unless they're grooved or damaged. That one in the upper left pics looks suspect. Does it have crud on it or is it grooved? Try cleaning it. If it cleans off and the tapered area is smooth, just replace the o-rings.

 

[FL-Rider]

How would I test this? Any other tests I should run before I get the carbs back in? They popoff at the right psi and both hold pressure so I know the diaphragm isn't holding the needle open

One way you test the accelerator pump is by manually pushing the lever while it is primed with wd-40 and the little lines hooked up. The spray ports( aka injectors) are in the little brass tubes that protrude into the carb throat near the choke plates.
The other way to test the accelerator pump and the associated check valves is with your pressure tester. In the manual it shows all the procedures. I could describe the procedures, but its easier for you to just look in the manual. If you don't have it yet, just download it from this site.
One note about the manual though. It says the injectors should hold pressure up to 13 PSI (plus or minus 3 PSI) before releasing into the carb throat. I found that mine only hold about 1-3 PSI period. I also have a 2nd set of carbs that are brand new in the box that test at 1-3 PSI. So that part of the manual may be a misprint. If anyone knows better, please chime in.

 

[Toona]

You can re-use adjuster screws unless they're grooved or damaged. That one in the upper left pics looks suspect. Does it have crud on it or is it grooved? Try cleaning it. If it cleans off and the tapered area is smooth, just replace the o-rings.

Any idea where I could buy both high and low speed screws?