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yet another trailer question...

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kwiktsi

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Hey guys, for those who don't remember- I am the one with the 08 Speedster 150 that hits the axle every time I pull the boat off the trailer or load it. I went to my dealer and they said "yeah, that can be a problem depending on the ramp, I'd look for another ramp"... Well, after thinking and looking at things, I realized that the trailer was not level on the truck (the dealer checked it when I bought it and said it was fine), the front had to come down ~5" to make the trailer level which would bring the back up about 3". I'm wondering if because the bunks were lower in the rear, that was allowing the boat to hit the axle before the bunks? Any thoughts?

Last night, I figured what the hell and dropped the axle and mounted it under the springs, bringing the trailer up about 3", making it level when attached to the hitch and giving me a total of 5" between the axle and bottom of the boat when loaded as opposed to the 2 it had before. I'm going to try it out tomorrow to see how it works out. I figure it will have to be in further (possibly until the truck gets wet), but it will save the boat from further damage.

If this works, I may just get a lower hitch (Reese with dropped ball) for it (it's currently a bumper hitch- factory 98 GMC Jimmy setup). I'm thinking with the axle dropped like this, there is absolutely no way it will hit and that's that and I won't need the hitch though. Again- any thoughts?
 
Hitch Operating Experience

I had similar with my receiver hitch. It was low enough that with the insert piece in it, which has the ball essentially lower by several inches, I could both risk hitting the trailer frame first and may not be able to put the hitch jacking wheel down. Basically, vanilla crap is sold to everyone and you have to be the engineer to determine what will work for your vehicle and trailer... I had to reverse the ball mounting on the receiver insert, effectively raising it about 5-6 inches. I know it was not 'designed/welded' to be used in this orientation, but with a tongue weight less than 100lb, what the hey, that's what chains are for. Also, the tongues on trailers sold at dealers are the MINIMUM length feasible, which has me getting my truck (Blazer S-10) wet to get the ski off the trailer!@#&@ I have not yet looked to modify my trailer, but advice to ski trailer buyers: Get a tongue at least 3-4 feet extended beyond the bow of the ski. You will also find backing much easier. YMMV.
 
Joe, I'm a Draw-tite trailer hitch dealer...for like 30 years...Send me some pictures and Ill give you some advice...I have changed a ton of trailers to help water craft.

Karl
 
I had similar with my receiver hitch. It was low enough that with the insert piece in it, which has the ball essentially lower by several inches, I could both risk hitting the trailer frame first and may not be able to put the hitch jacking wheel down. Basically, vanilla crap is sold to everyone and you have to be the engineer to determine what will work for your vehicle and trailer... I had to reverse the ball mounting on the receiver insert, effectively raising it about 5-6 inches. I know it was not 'designed/welded' to be used in this orientation, but with a tongue weight less than 100lb, what the hey, that's what chains are for. Also, the tongues on trailers sold at dealers are the MINIMUM length feasible, which has me getting my truck (Blazer S-10) wet to get the ski off the trailer!@#&@ I have not yet looked to modify my trailer, but advice to ski trailer buyers: Get a tongue at least 3-4 feet extended beyond the bow of the ski. You will also find backing much easier. YMMV.

Mine is the opposite- mine was high in the front, bringing the tail of the trailer down so that hitting the rear crossbeam wasn't a problem, BUT it lowered the bunks as well, allowing the bottom of the Vee to hit the axle before the bunks guided the boat up. I'll see how it is tomorrow and go from there. Your idea of a longer tongue may not be bad either... Thanks!

Karl, I'll send you a PM in a bit, maybe tomorrow- I'm BEAT right now. I'd like to maybe call you sometime if possible as well, may be easier.
 
Joe, I'm a Draw-tite trailer hitch dealer...for like 30 years...Send me some pictures and Ill give you some advice...I have changed a ton of trailers to help water craft.

Karl


Karl, since you do that for living can u check something for me? My brother in law has a 2001 bmw x5 and needs a hitch installed. I tried around and only found oem which is so damn expensive.
 
Well, boat loaded and unladed without a problem today (though it had to be much further in due to the trailer being 3" taller than before). Now, however, it appears that I am a victim of the supercharger washers exploding :(. I was told it does not apply to 08's because they all had steel, but something happened- it would not go over 64-6500 and I heard no whine from the blower at all :(. The service guy said it certainly sounded like the washers let loose but didn't think the 08's had the ceramic.

Also, they said there is no reason to pull the motor and flush the debris from the washer as they will just sit in the pan and the pickup screen will prevent them from being sucked up. This sounds half assed to me- is it really sop on this repair??? I know I would never knowingly leave any debris in any oil pan.
 
Trailers...

Great! I believe Karl, having business experience, will help you out. Interesting cross-bar vs. axle position. Speaks to (I believe) differing design of trailers sold with boats/skis, which can be regional/vendor-specific. The choices I had were aluminum vs. galvnanized, that was it. $ not being the priority, I chose the AL, but was not aware of all the other factors. Been a long time since I backed my dad's boat down a ramp... Best Regards.

Mine is the opposite- mine was high in the front, bringing the tail of the trailer down so that hitting the rear crossbeam wasn't a problem, BUT it lowered the bunks as well, allowing the bottom of the Vee to hit the axle before the bunks guided the boat up. I'll see how it is tomorrow and go from there. Your idea of a longer tongue may not be bad either... Thanks!

Karl, I'll send you a PM in a bit, maybe tomorrow- I'm BEAT right now. I'd like to maybe call you sometime if possible as well, may be easier.
 
Washers

Condolences. My post with opening "Great" was 3 min. after yours with the washer info. I did not see it prior to my post... That sucks. I have seen multiple instances of the "washer" business. I agree with you 100% that pan should be pulled/engine flushed for debris. Karl may have other experience. Best wishes on getting good dealer/warranty support...
 
Condolences. My post with opening "Great" was 3 min. after yours with the washer info. I did not see it prior to my post... That sucks. I have seen multiple instances of the "washer" business. I agree with you 100% that pan should be pulled/engine flushed for debris. Karl may have other experience. Best wishes on getting good dealer/warranty support...

Haha, no problem. I thought nothing of it.

I'll talk to them again tomorrow and see what they plan on doing. The service adviser told me today though that they do not drop the pan and remove the shrapnel. I don't know how I feel about that other than just saying "ok, no problem, I'll be back in a week when it blows up" lol.
 
Karl, since you do that for living can u check something for me? My brother in law has a 2001 bmw x5 and needs a hitch installed. I tried around and only found oem which is so damn expensive.

Here is some information from the Draw-Tite application book. This same hitch fits Years 2000 - 2006. Part# is either 75154 or 75492. They retail about $200.00 and are a Class III. Expect extra install time as it needs the fascia to be trimmed.


Joe, I found this quoted from a reputable dealer;

"The 2008 Sport Boats DO NOT HAVE titanium coated steel washers! ONLY the 2008 personal watercraft have titanium coated steel washers in the superchargers. There are no exceptions or running changes from the factory, if it is a 2008 sport boat then it has ceramic washers in ALL of the supercharged engines. One fact you might be interested in is that we have NEVER have a sport boat supercharger failure, we have had several PWC failures typically on RXP models that have been ridden in the ocean where the operator did not practice throttle management while airborne. If you use Captain skills while operating your 150 Speedster SCIC the ceramic washers will be fine. Just back off the throttle a little while airborne and the ceramic washers will last for years.

Quoted by;
"Kevin Seeber Kingsland Marine"


Just some food for thought.

Karl
 
Here is some information from the Draw-Tite application book. This same hitch fits Years 2000 - 2006. Part# is either 75154 or 75492. They retail about $200.00 and are a Class III. Expect extra install time as it needs the fascia to be trimmed.


Joe, I found this quoted from a reputable dealer;

"The 2008 Sport Boats DO NOT HAVE titanium coated steel washers! ONLY the 2008 personal watercraft have titanium coated steel washers in the superchargers. There are no exceptions or running changes from the factory, if it is a 2008 sport boat then it has ceramic washers in ALL of the supercharged engines. One fact you might be interested in is that we have NEVER have a sport boat supercharger failure, we have had several PWC failures typically on RXP models that have been ridden in the ocean where the operator did not practice throttle management while airborne. If you use Captain skills while operating your 150 Speedster SCIC the ceramic washers will be fine. Just back off the throttle a little while airborne and the ceramic washers will last for years.

Quoted by;
"Kevin Seeber Kingsland Marine"


Just some food for thought.

Karl
Heh, I do pull back on the throttle when airborne. I think I know what happened, but I'll PM you the details if you want lol. They did replace them with the steel ones though, hopefully that isn't a downgrade :(.
Joe
 
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