XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend in 2007 Wake 215

[Titaniumboy]

I bought 4 quarts of XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend (293600121) from a Seadoo dealer back in 2010 for my 2000 Wake 215. While getting ready to do an oil change, I noticed that the Seadoo Manual is recommending XPS 10W-40 4-stroke oil (219700346).

I had the ceramic washers on the supercharger changed out to steel washers back in 2010.

Is the XPS 5W-40 Synthetic Blend going to be safe to use? I have no idea why the dealer sold me that particular oil instead of the oil recommended in the manual.

Thanks for any help on this.

 

[Digdog]

The 5W-40 is the new standard, go ahead and use it.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Digdog,

That is great news. Now all I have to do is figure on how to pump the old oil out.

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

 

[Digdog]

You have to use a vacuum pump , suck out through the dipstick tube, when you think it's all out hold the throttle open and turn it over for 10 seconds and the finish vacuuming the oil out.

 

[Titaniumboy]

So I have vacuumed all the oil out of the ski that is going to come out. I have not measured how much oil came out yet, but it was a lot.

I have removed the E10 Star bolt, and am now having trouble getting the oil filter cover off. I see that the pro shop that changed the oil in 2010 has left a bunch of gouges when they removed the filter cover. And surprisingly there is a small gap between the filter body and the filter cover ; that is how I saw the pro shop gouges.

I see that there are special tools - filter cover separater and filter cover puller - to help with this task, but of course I don’t have those tools.

 

[skiasylum]

The gap is suppose to be there but is should be filled with the o-ring. The gouges are probably there from prying the cover off with a flat head screwdriver. Somebody didn’t bother to check the torque value for the star bolt at some point and jammed something up.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Thanks for the insight into the gap and that I need to pay attention to the star bolt torque.

Any ideas on removing this accursed filter cover?

And I did, in fact, remove a lot of oil. After only two cycles of draining I got out 4 quarts and 8 ounces. That seems like more oil than most are getting out of their 1500 4-tec engine. The original oil level was in the middle of the dipstick range when the engine was cold.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Never mind. I was being a wuss. Got the filter cap off.

It’s still weird about draining more than a gallon. I only have four quarts to dump in, so that is all she is going to get tonight.

 

[Titaniumboy]

This is how I found my oil filter cover once I got it unstuck. Nice gouges. And to think I paid those asshats good money.




They apparently got one of the o-rings also. Now maybe this o-ring got this way by being old, but the rest of the o-ring looked pretty good.




And here are the gouges on the filter canister. Although some of these look to me to be casting voids from the factory?

 

[skiasylum]

I would definitely suggest a new cap, it even looks bent. The housing looks bad also, surprising it didn’t leak. The top face is the mating surface for the o-ring to the the cap. It is usually flat and shiny with no voids. Not sure how to refurbish that. Maybe fill the voids and gouges with JB Weld and resurface the face with something flat, hard and abrasive like a metal plate with sandpaper attached. Asshats for sure.

 

[skiasylum]

The full oil capacity for the 1494cc motor is 5.1 quarts, the oil change quantity with a new filter is 3.2 quarts. So think of it more as a oil replenish than a oil change and do not overfill. Add 3.2 quarts and recheck dipstick with a level ski and warm engine. Half way between the two marks is proper and anywhere between the two marks is correct per the service manual.

 

[Titaniumboy]

The fatter o-ring on the filter cover goes down into the filter canister and seems to do the lions share of sealing. It is not clear to me what the skinny o-ring is doing exactly since, because of the gap, the filter cover machined surface never actually comes close enough to the filter canister machined surface.

The filter cover certainly looks bad, but perhaps looks worse in the pictures than real life because of the magnified view. It did not seem bent, but I didn’t actually check that in detail. I haven’t started the ski since dumping in 4 quarts last night and I will be checking for oil leaks around that filter cover.

Here is a pic of the filter cover installed and torqued down. It doesn’t look like the skinny o-ring is really being compressed by the two machined surfaces.





You said “the oil change quantity with a new filter is 3.2 quarts”. I somehow removed 4.25 quarts of oil yesterday.

 

[skiasylum]

Proper O-ring placment on oil filter cap.

 

[skiasylum]

The asshats probably overfilled it.

 

[Titaniumboy]

Thanks for that link. It looks like I have installed that skinny o-ring correctly.

It looks like the asshats put in 3 qts of 10W-30 in 2010 according to their invoice. No clue as to brand of oil or whether it was synthetic blend or conventional.

It truly makes me wonder what kind of job they did when they changed out the ceramic washers for metal washers in the supercharger in 2010.

 

[POPPS]

The older original style caps made it hard to remove,,,the newer ones have a built in spring that pushes the cap up,,.the gouges are normal,,,its hard to get in there to see that you are pinching an "O" ring,,,remove the "O" ring,,,take a file and smooth out any edges,,,install the "O" rings,,.channel locks are used to grab the very top of the cap to wiggle it out.

 

[Claytor]

Here is a good step by step procedure for changing oil in a 4-Tech Sea Doo. Don't forget the step about after warming up the engine rev it to 4000 RPM and shut it off while running 4000 to get the oil out of the PTO. Then do the suck, hold throttle wide open & crank routine 3 times.
How to do an easy Seadoo Oil Change using an Oil Extractor

 

[Titaniumboy]

That is a good video and article. I had referred to that video/article plus the 2008 service manual oil change procedure.

 

[DJ230xp]

This is from my 230 Wake manual… stupid question; how do I know if my engine is Supercharged or NA? I just bought it so forgive me I need to take a picture of the engine bay so I can remember what some of this stuff looks like…

***update*** Being a newbie I did not think about the fact that BRP could update their guidance in the manuals years later. The current recommended oil for Supercharged engines is in fact the blended/semi-synthetic oil in the 5W40.

 

[skiasylum]

Well the easiest way is the hp designation in the model name. 230 is your hp telling you it’s supercharged. Anything over 155 is supercharged, and yes you do have to pay attention to which oil you use with a supercharged motor. Good start reading the operators manual, many newbies skip that step and it ends up costing them $.

 

[ski-d00]

Anything over 155 is supercharged,

The newer 170 models are not supercharged