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Wont start hot...

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vettepilot_6

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Okay went out again today, same problem as the other day wont or hard to start after runing for a while...sounds like it is flooded? Do you think it is the TPS to be reset as suggested before? Local Dealer says not interested in working on 2 strokes? WTF? wonder if Seadoo would be okay with that? Suggestions please... (oh battery now flat from trying to start it, wonder if its possible to mount a much bigger battery in there?)
 
If its running correctly you wont need a bigger battery.


Ive never heard people complain about a hard warm start and it being the TPS, but your first post sounded exactly like it.
 
I am not sure how fuel injection would flood an engine with fuel after stopping it but thats what its like...when trying to start it warm it coughs and splutters or just the odd engine fire...yet when left for a while it starts right up and dosent stop unless I stop it then the problem remerges....sometimes I can catch it on the splutter by holding the start button down and full throttle and it will cough its way into life....so this is why I think it is getting too much fuel....I will pull the plugs and see how wet and black they are....
 
I will pull the plugs tomorrow and see if it looks like they have being over fueled....then I will have a better idea where to start..
 
The problem is the injectors. (if it will start cold)

They are leaking, and need cleaned. Basically... when you shut it off... they aren't sealing, and they leak out the residual pressure (and fuel) into the engine.

Take them out, and send them to an injection shop to be serviced.


As far as a dealer not wanting to work on a 2-stroke... that sucks... but they don't have to. The last seadoo 2-strokes were sold 8~9 years ago... so they are no longer a "Supported" ski. AND... I understand. A dealer gets busy during the warm season... and they don't want to take in a ski that will take time away from customers who buy new skis. I bet they will work on it in the middle of your cold season.
 
The problem is the injectors. (if it will start cold)

They are leaking, and need cleaned. Basically... when you shut it off... they aren't sealing, and they leak out the residual pressure (and fuel) into the engine.

Take them out, and send them to an injection shop to be serviced.

So even a car or truck place can service these injectors? or do I take them to another Seadoo Dealer?
 
pull your injector rail and get part number right off the injector itself, (it will be a bosch part number), then contact this place
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/ and usully around 58.00 ea to replace them, seadoo sells the same ones in a seadoo package for like 145.00 ea. -- lol note -- dont play around if you have a bad injector, i did and it cost me a motor -- due to injector washing oil down in cylinder, and piston siezing up on cylinder wall --
 
Well pulled plugs they're black, so order of today is new plugs and fuel injectors....oh and checked battery it is in need of a charge too, charging system is okay on it....as well as starter motor according to my tester...

09012013676.jpg

09012013677.jpg
 
charged battery and took it down the river with new plugs and injector clean, starts first hit, runs great, stopped it and was a little hard to start, so I am thinking it is definately injectors....leave it for 10mins and it starts straight up, and dosent miss a beat...
 
If its running correctly you wont need a bigger battery.

The battery that is in it is a CB16CLB which depending on brand is between 230 and 280CCA is this enough for a GTI? I was thinking with computer and fuel injection the minimum CCA should have been 360CCA? Correct me if I am wrong....The battery tests good condition when fully charged....but been a lower CCA rating its reserve capacity would also be very low..
 
On the RFI, and Di skis... the biggest/strongest battery you can fit is best. A weak, or cheap battery will allow the voltage to sag while cranking, and it will be hard to start. If you put a meter on the battery, and it goes below 11v while cranking... it may not start.

Polaris, or any other ski with a "Fitch" injection system has a dead range at 10.7 volts. As soon as it hits 10.7v... the engine will keep cranking forever, but the injection ECU isn't even on.
 
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