What went wrong with 08 speedster launch

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
That cable on the left is your reverse cable. It's going to need to be replaced. The plastic nut that holds it in place should be replaced with an aluminum one as the plastic ones are known for leaking.

That impeller is pretty tore up. You should send it off to have it reconditioned or replace it altogether. The leading edges should be smooth, not jagged. While you're at it, you should replace the plastic wear ring as well.

How does it sound when you spin the impeller? If it's rough or sounds kinda loud, you may need to rebuild your pump as well. On the back side there's a cone with three allen head bolts holding it in place. When you finally get the venturi off, you should remove the cone to inspect the grease in there. There should be no water present behind that cone. There should not be any rust on the rear bearing either. Once you get it off, post pics.

Driveshaft splines look good. That impeller may cause some cavitation due to it's condition, but not something that would limit your RPMs, just give you a poor holeshot and reduce your top speed.

Let us know how the battery load test goes as well as the leak down test. That boat appears to have been run in salt and not properly taken care of. Everything is fixable so far, but I'd hold off on replacing anything until you get the leak down test done. No point in spending money on things yet if you have motor issues.

Welcome to boating. It's not a cheap hobby, especially when you're fixing other people's mistakes, but hopefully you can get the boat up and running soon.

Some welcome indeed J, kind of like the cost of learning to play poker.

Today was ruff. Just when I thought I was getting somewhere..my buddy who is a master mason shows up to help. Let me tell you I was better off at the pace I was going with my impact drill, alone. I'm embarrassed to post the result but at this point I feel a duty to see this project out with you play by play.. be it what it may.

So my pal is an old school fella, 65, usually very crafty but today he went ham to the point of no return. I'm still in shock. Have a look at what is left of the one bolt which looked so clean one might say it had to be the one that would have come right out. Needless to say, it was not and did not.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2551.PNG
    IMG_2551.PNG
    1.9 MB · Views: 20
That cable on the left is your reverse cable. It's going to need to be replaced. The plastic nut that holds it in place should be replaced with an aluminum one as the plastic ones are known for leaking.

That impeller is pretty tore up. You should send it off to have it reconditioned or replace it altogether. The leading edges should be smooth, not jagged. While you're at it, you should replace the plastic wear ring as well.

How does it sound when you spin the impeller? If it's rough or sounds kinda loud, you may need to rebuild your pump as well. On the back side there's a cone with three allen head bolts holding it in place. When you finally get the venturi off, you should remove the cone to inspect the grease in there. There should be no water present behind that cone. There should not be any rust on the rear bearing either. Once you get it off, post pics.

Driveshaft splines look good. That impeller may cause some cavitation due to it's condition, but not something that would limit your RPMs, just give you a poor holeshot and reduce your top speed.

Let us know how the battery load test goes as well as the leak down test. That boat appears to have been run in salt and not properly taken care of. Everything is fixable so far, but I'd hold off on replacing anything until you get the leak down test done. No point in spending money on things yet if you have motor issues.

Welcome to boating. It's not a cheap hobby, especially when you're fixing other people's mistakes, but hopefully you can get the boat up and running soon.

I'm not giving up! Reading this is the most promising news of the day. I was almost sure the boat was doomed when I saw the condition of the cable and all the cr4p that was glued. I have been known to be somewhat OCD so at first when I saw the can of worms I thought what the, who the, why the.. blatant disregard! I also thought to myself you are overreacting, this is how it goes..yea right!

I'll hold off on looking into prices until I can confirm the leak down and battery load. I'll find out soon enough. For now, I'm going to hold on to the relief of hearing you say these things are fixable.

Tomorrow, I dunno how that bolt is coming out. Hopefully, a machine shop can do it without further damage.

I do know, if it can be done, I look forward to getting this thing crispy clean and make you gentlemen glad you took the time. 100% Thank You!
 
I had my fair share of issues removing those bolts. Again,you still have options. I used the set below to get mine off. I drove the extractor onto the bolt head with a hammer and then slowly put pressure on it to remove it. It finally came out, but it took several days and multiple applications of that 50/50 ATF mixture to do so. I would venture to guess a machine shop could remove it fairly easily if all else fails. You could also do like Gazza recommended a while back and drill the head off and then remove the remaining "stud".

Bolt Extractor.jpg

Bolt 2.jpg
 
When you do finally get it apart, your pump cone should look like the pic below. about 1/2 full of grease and the rear bearing on the pump should be rust free.



Pump Cone 1.jpg



Cleaned port bearing.jpg
 
Hi Guys, finally got jet pump open! Hard to believe the strength it took to get the last bolt out without it breaking. The bolt head went almost a full turn around without moving the bottom end of the screw.
 
That grease is toast. You don't need to remove that black cap on the pump. Once you remove the impeller, you can see the condition of the other bearing. The impeller should spin smoothly. If it sounds rough, you may want to rebuild the pump.

Your mechanic kept mentioning a kit. What kit was he referring to?

When you replace those long bolts, be sure to use some marine grease on the threads (just a little) to keep them from seizing up on you again. Also coat the shaft of the bolt as well so it doesn't get galled in the housing. Make sue you replace with SS.

The pump cone bolts are supposed to be replaced each time, but I've been known not to do that each time.

The rear cone has notches in the bottom to help with the removal (for next time). Be sure to torque everything correctly, especially the impeller. If your impeller were to come loose, it can destroy your thrust washer on your crank. My buddy just experienced this on his Speedster and wound up losing the motor back in May. It was an expensive lesson.

Venturi bolts: 15 lbft
Pump Cone: 66 inlb
Impeller: 92 lbft
Pump: 2 steps: 12 lbft then final: 23 lbft
Reverse bucket bolts (blue loctite needed): 80 inlb

Jet pump grease is part number: 293 550 032

Any news on the leak down test? The results of that will determine if you're gonna want to fix anything else. Not sure how much money you want to sink into your boat.

If you do decide to continue on with your repairs, you should remove your pump at the end of every season to inspect and lube everything up. When it's not all frozen up, the pump can usually be removed in about 10 minutes.
 
That grease is toast. You don't need to remove that black cap on the pump. Once you remove the impeller, you can see the condition of the other bearing. The impeller should spin smoothly. If it sounds rough, you may want to rebuild the pump.

Your mechanic kept mentioning a kit. What kit was he referring to?

When you replace those long bolts, be sure to use some marine grease on the threads (just a little) to keep them from seizing up on you again. Also coat the shaft of the bolt as well so it doesn't get galled in the housing. Make sue you replace with SS.

The pump cone bolts are supposed to be replaced each time, but I've been known not to do that each time.

The rear cone has notches in the bottom to help with the removal (for next time). Be sure to torque everything correctly, especially the impeller. If your impeller were to come loose, it can destroy your thrust washer on your crank. My buddy just experienced this on his Speedster and wound up losing the motor back in May. It was an expensive lesson.

Venturi bolts: 15 lbft
Pump Cone: 66 inlb
Impeller: 92 lbft
Pump: 2 steps: 12 lbft then final: 23 lbft
Reverse bucket bolts (blue loctite needed): 80 inlb

Jet pump grease is part number: 293 550 032

Any news on the leak down test? The results of that will determine if you're gonna want to fix anything else. Not sure how much money you want to sink into your boat.

If you do decide to continue on with your repairs, you should remove your pump at the end of every season to inspect and lube everything up. When it's not all frozen up, the pump can usually be removed in about 10 minutes.

Hey J, thanks for torque measures. Outline with points is helpful, I'm learning fast as I can. From what I see, a bunch of parts is needed for maintenance alone. Parts look so beat up its hard to think i'd be doing the right thing putting it together as is.

I took advice, got the pump out. Next need to get battery load tested and learn how to do leak down test. What is a leak down test?

In the video my friend is referring to wear ring and jet pump repair kit. We have no idea what were getting into with regard to parts and prices yet. How much would it cost to get it crisy clean like the one in the pic you posted earlier?
 
You need three special tools and a hydraulic press to rebuild a jet pump
Two for seal and bearing instillation
1 impeller splined tool removal with an Allen key socket
 
From what I have seen so far I believe the low compression is your problem and I suspect the valves are causing low compression but it’s best to do a leak down test of each cylinder
The way I do it is to remove intake and exhaust manifold
Clean the surface where they came off with a degreaser or acetone
Apply wide celotape so while doing test you can see the tape expanding if the valves are leaking
For the crankcase vent system , remove the hose and tape a piece of plastic or put a latex glove over the engine vent opening

Gary
 
Not sure which size pump you have, but a new one minus an impeller will set you back about $450-ish. If you get a new impeller, expect another $250-ish as well. You should be able to refurbish yours (impeller) for about $100 or so. A pump rebuild kit is less than $200 I believe.

Link to new pumps
 
Hello Good Fellow!

Battery not so great, I left it charging.

I am also heading back to my mechanic so he can help me identify intake, exhaust, supercharger prop, etc for test

I am all in if I can get this boat back into tip-top shape for a thousand bucks!

Once I have results I will need to create a list of parts to order

Thanks again Gents! I will be back asap
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2571.JPG
    IMG_2571.JPG
    2.4 MB · Views: 14
Load test can only be done on a fully charged battery or you could end up replacing a good battery

Leak down test there’s a lot on you tube
 
Load test can only be done on a fully charged battery or you could end up replacing a good battery

Leak down test there’s a lot on you tube

Thank you Gary-

The battery is now fully charged.

I am headed to Harbor Freight to purchase Leak Down tester. Can you pls tell me which tool is used to turn the cylinder to the correct position and confirm for me, I do not need to run the engine for this test, only connect the battery correct?
 
No need to connect the battery and best it’s disconnected any way
With all the spark plugs out you may get away with
Turning the engine via the super charger
You can shine a light down spark plug hole to see when piston is moving up to TDC when it’s close a thin long screw driver down the and turn slowly via the supercharger (17mm socket )
Link for how to rotate engine via supercharger upto 5 min mark

 
So from my understandng, you can't go beyond 4mph in the water, right? I think what's happenng is your shift cable retainer (that plastic nut you found broken) is allowing the cable to slide fwd and not actually lifting the reverse gate. You're basically still in Neutral. Replace that with a brass retainer and try on the water again.
 
Last edited:
So from my understandng, you can't go beyond 4mph in the water, right? I think what's happenng is your shift cable retainer (that plastic nut you found broken) is allowing the cable to slide fwd and not actually lifting the reverse gate. You're basically still in Neutral. Replace that with a brass retainer and try on the water again.

That's a great observation and could most definitely be part of his problem, but I'm not sure that would contribute to his issue of not hitting max RPMs? Maybe the throttle cable is also bad as he was able to open and hit max RPMs when operating the throttle body by hand?

He should easily be able to see if the throttle body is full open and maxed out when the throttle lever is pushed all the way forward. He could test that out now.
 
well, maybe the load on the engine with the reverse gate is too much when it's in the water. I never go full throttle in reverse, so I can't say for sure. All I know is that he can test all these factors on land by (as JPass said) actuating the levers and seeing the effect on the parts they're connected to.
 
So we need to know this
Was the Reverse cable plastic nut broken before trying to remove jet pump? Or broken during jet pump removal ?
Did you manually open throttle on trailer to get the RPM above 4800 as shown on video ?
If you move the selector F N R to F and move throttle selector full fwd can you turn Throttle Body cable cam Clockwise any more and if yes how much ?

Send reply
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top