What went wrong with 08 speedster launch

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Thank you J, i'll give it a shot tomorrow. Im not sure about the supercharger, i'll check it as well.

Gazza mentioned a few things earlier today that wont throw codes and another friend directed me to an old seadooforum post about the wear ring titled, " Need help ski wont go over 7 or 8 miles an hour shakes"


You can check the wear ring to impeller gap with a feeler gauge once you remove the pump. The tolerances are 0.35mm or 0.014in
 
Once you get it on the hose, see if she'll rev up to the max RPMs (7800 - 8000K). Just do a quick check to see if the motor can do it. Has the super charger ever been rebuilt? You can check the condition of the clutch by removing the outlet tube and see if you can spin the impeller by hand. You should not be able to.


On the trailer can you rev it to the red line?
 
On the trailer can you rev it to the red line?

Yesterday, I wasn't able to work on the boat at all. I'm going to try reving it up to full throttler today. If it does, do I still proceed to pull the jet pump and check wear ring gap?
 
I was not able to fully extend throttle lever. I recorded getting up to 6600-6900 rpm to show you guys


 
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I am surprised that in reverse you could rev it so high! Doesn't seem right, they usually are governed for safety!
 
So you know the motor under no load will reach the max RPMs. Now you need to figure out why she won't rev out while under load.

Have you done a compression check on the motor at all? Post some pics of the impeller and pump when you remove it.

Also check to see if you can spin the impeller on the supercharger.

Let us know what you find.
 
So you know the motor under no load will reach the max RPMs. Now you need to figure out why she won't rev out while under load.

Have you done a compression check on the motor at all? Post some pics of the impeller and pump when you remove it.

Also check to see if you can spin the impeller on the supercharger.

Let us know what you find.

No compression test, yet. I'll need to look up the procedure for that and the supercharger impeller.

Unfortunately, I was only able to remove 2 of the 4 bolts from the pump. The other 2 bolts look like whoever worked on them prior did a wicked number on them.. they had barely any thread but I was able jam the bit in deep enough to grip with impact drill, still no luck.

I think I need stronger than 18V drill. Full battery wasted without budging bolt. I also used a bit for stripped bolts on the outside to no avail

Was off to a good start but like all great things, nuisance makes an appearance

Glad it reved up though, I've no idea what it means just feeling I got kind of lucky, lol

I'm optimistic thanks to you guys
 
I am surprised that in reverse you could rev it so high! Doesn't seem right, they usually are governed for safety!
Who knows Popps, my buddy Miguel RIP always found ways to make things faster..modifying reverse sounds weird.. maybe something else is off.. I would not put it passed him to create some sort of cut-off to prevent theft being from Queens
 
Compression test example can be found HERE. While it's not for your boat, the procedure is the same. You should have roughly 120psi in each cylinder and no more than 10% difference between the lowest and highest cylinder. Better to test on a warm engine.

Post some pics of the pump bolts you're struggling with. You may want to soak the bolts in a 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to help free them up. Be careful as the mixture can remove paint.

As for the supercharger impeller check, you need to remove the hose from the supercharger to your throttle body. On the supercharger outlet, you'll see the impeller blades. If you can spin them or move them with your fingers, than your supercharger is slipping and will need to be rebuilt.

Post some pics, so we can see what you're dealing with. I had some stuck reverse bucket bracket bolts a while back and was about to get them out with an extractor (female).

If and when you get them off, be sure to coat the bolts and the holes in the bracket with waterproof grease to prevent them from freezing up again in the future. It's also good practice to remove the pump assembly each year and to regrease everything to prevent the issue from happening again, especially if you run in salt water.
 
Thanks again man!

I figure, post this video before heading back out to grab stuff for compression test..

Got out early, swapped up drill..bolts still not budging.


I have a bunch of sprays, not sure which to use or if to go buy tranny fluid to mix w acetone
 

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Yeah. You have a couple of options left at this point to get that bracket off. You can try some heat on the bolt hole body and the impact gun. You can try a huge breaker bar and those female extractors. You can try to get some penetrating oil in there, but not sure how you'd get it past the bolt head, or you can simply cut off the bracket and bit the bullet for a new one.

Mine were pretty stuck and took several days of soaking in 50/50 ATF and Acetone, but I had the time to wait and it finally worked after multiple applications per day for several days.
 
Yeah. You have a couple of options left at this point to get that bracket off. You can try some heat on the bolt hole body and the impact gun. You can try a huge breaker bar and those female extractors. You can try to get some penetrating oil in there, but not sure how you'd get it past the bolt head, or you can simply cut off the bracket and bit the bullet for a new one.

Mine were pretty stuck and took several days of soaking in 50/50 ATF and Acetone, but I had the time to wait and it finally worked after multiple applications per day for several days.

Man, this is extreme! I sprayed bolt head, seal plate area, and towards bolt exit with the blaster product. It seems to have penetrated..I'll re-apply few more times over next hour, give couple hard taps, wedge w pry bar, then try removing with impact drill paint stripper heat gun.

In the meantime, I'll head out for compression test guage and ATF for mix

Now, the pry-bar is stuck smh

I'm going for ride to breathe this out..

Before I go want to confirm if it's possible to remove the rear bolts shown in pictures below to extract everything and get onto workbench with clamps? I can reach the rear bolts w an extension just unsure if it is safe to do so?
 

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Be careful using heat you'll probably damage the housing the pump is mounted too.
Looks like you may end up having to drill the bolt heads off then soak the remaining part of the bolt as i believe the liquid is not getting onto the threads.
Was this a fresh water or salt water machine?
 
Be careful using heat you'll probably damage the housing the pump is mounted too.
Looks like you may end up having to drill the bolt heads off then soak the remaining part of the bolt as i believe the liquid is not getting onto the threads.
Was this a fresh water or salt water machine?[/

From what I know it was used in the East and Hudson River which would be brackish water.

I’m on way back from getting compression gauge. How do I get a speedster into drown mode to run test?

Hopefully the blaster loosened bolts

In the case I still have no luck with bolts can I remove the rear bolts in the picture to remove entire assembly or no?



I remove
 
IDK why it wouldn't rev past 4800 in-water, but if it was turning 4800 RPM and only going 4-5 mph, that's almost always a wear ring issue. If it's one of the original style made up of different layers colored black and white, I have had several of those delaminate between the layers and the inside layer (next to the outside edge of the impeller) tends to separate and come apart. Which leaves you with about 1/4 inch of clearance around the impeller. That'll cause cavitation like crazy. But it'll also usually rev to the redline no problem.
 
Before I go want to confirm if it's possible to remove the rear bolts shown in pictures below to extract everything and get onto workbench with clamps? I can reach the rear bolts w an extension just unsure if it is safe to do so?

Yes you can remove the pump from the boat to work on it on the bench.
 
with a ski you can hold the throttle wide open so on the boat i would do the same but hold it open at the throttle body
you gonna need another set of hands to hold the start switch make sure you have a fully charged battery

confirm you not getting the check engine message on gauge when you cant rev it in water, sounds like its in LIMP mode
 
with a ski you can hold the throttle wide open so on the boat i would do the same but hold it open at the throttle body
you gonna need another set of hands to hold the start switch make sure you have a fully charged battery

confirm you not getting the check engine message on gauge when you cant rev it in water, sounds like its in LIMP mode

I have to check the video again..I ran it for a few minutes to warm it up and mistakenly turned engine off prior to cutting water off so i turned back on then cut water off and I got a constant beep then shut it off:(

I apologize guys..I need to confirm the correct order of steps and when to take out plugs
 
Yes you can remove the pump from the boat to work on it on the bench.

Ok, I would like to get compression test out of the way first but I lost focus, totally overwhelmed

WHat a doof! I think I got it, had to watch video. I'll be right back!
 
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Finally got it right
2351 is #1
2352 is #2
2353 is #3
 

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