SHESAH
Active Member
I'm not sure what I was doing wrong.. I shut everything off and started over.
What went wrong with 08 speedster launch
- Thread starter SHESAH
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I'm not sure what I was doing wrong.. I shut everything off and started over.
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
that is low for this engine
battery fully charged?
should have about 300 RPM on cranking.
if you shut some oil down the plug hole and do compression again and see what it increases too. This will tell you top or bottom end issue.
How many hours on it ?
non super charged you looking at around 150psi compression
battery fully charged?
should have about 300 RPM on cranking.
if you shut some oil down the plug hole and do compression again and see what it increases too. This will tell you top or bottom end issue.
How many hours on it ?
non super charged you looking at around 150psi compression
SHESAH
Active Member
Brand new battery 12Volts
I'll check compression again..Is this too much oil in the picture? Not sure if to take some oil out or put more in?
The console reads 66 hours
It is supercharged, i have look up how to check the impeller on it
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gazzaskirepair
Active Member
yes
should be between the two marks , but don't think that will affect compression
battery should be higher than 12 around 12.6 especially a new battery
should be between the two marks , but don't think that will affect compression
battery should be higher than 12 around 12.6 especially a new battery
SHESAH
Active Member
I'll check the battery again.
Will this oil level possibly put system into limp mode?
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
no limp mode comes up with a fault code too of the sensor or fault
JPass
Well-Known Member
That's definitely too much oil, although it shouldn't affect compression. Your compression is low as well. Gazzaskirepair is correct, try dropping a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder and run the compression test again.
The oil looks pretty dark for being fresh. Does it smell like gas by any chance?
The supercharger has slip washers in it that should not allow it to spin easily when attempting to spin by hand.
The correct/precise way to check the amount of slippage can be found HERE, but I'd hold off on that check until you've ruled out some other things first, but definitely try to move the impeller by hand. If it spins easily, then your supercharger is in need of a rebuild.
The oil looks pretty dark for being fresh. Does it smell like gas by any chance?
The supercharger has slip washers in it that should not allow it to spin easily when attempting to spin by hand.
The correct/precise way to check the amount of slippage can be found HERE, but I'd hold off on that check until you've ruled out some other things first, but definitely try to move the impeller by hand. If it spins easily, then your supercharger is in need of a rebuild.
SHESAH
Active Member
My apologies for dropping off yesterday wasn't able to get back out there. Gonna eat something and go..
I believe the plan is to check if bolts loosened, test battery, remove some oil, drop some oil in the cylinder for a compression test, and figure out supercharger condition?
I believe the plan is to check if bolts loosened, test battery, remove some oil, drop some oil in the cylinder for a compression test, and figure out supercharger condition?
SHESAH
Active Member
J, I thought the same thing about the oil being dark. Figured revving it hard as I did may have caused that. One of the plugs looked kind of shot to be brand new as well. I'll take a picture to show you shortly
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
Check the rpm when cranking
You should get around 300RPM
Have you had a look at the jet pump drive shaft and pump inlet for anything wrapped around shaft and anything in pump inlet 
You should get around 300RPM
Have you had a look at the jet pump drive shaft and pump inlet for anything wrapped around shaft and anything in pump inlet
SHESAH
Active Member
Check the rpm when cranking
You should get around 300RPM
Have you had a look at the jet pump drive shaft and pump inlet for anything wrapped around shaft and anything in pump inlet
Ok, heading back out now. I'll get back to you with the Battery and RPM reading.
I am learning a whole bunch with you guys. Until now I have not been sure what or where to look exactly. I did have a Iook under the boat where there is a two-bar grill..it looks clean from outside and so does the jet pump outlet.
One thing I did not do or mention is a change of coolant. Following the advice of a friend who mentioned coolant reservoir looked clean, bad coolant changes color
JPass
Well-Known Member
Once you get that pump off, post some pics. Lets see those plugs too. IIRC you stated the plugs and oil were changed recently. Do you know how many hours you put on the boat since the change?
Did you have a chance to recheck your compression numbers with a little oil added to each cylinder?
Did you have a chance to recheck your compression numbers with a little oil added to each cylinder?
SHESAH
Active Member
My son dropped in on me from college for few minutes. I'm going to boogie and try to get everything done before it rains. BRB
Besides the RPM checking we have done no hours really we went out about 1-2 miles and road back to dock
The console reads 66 hours, i find it hard to believe
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SHESAH
Active Member
It did start to rain but before I tested the battery at 12.38, removed approx. 8 ounces of oil and the spark plugs. Had to cover everything up right as I was about to check compression
I also managed to free up a millimeter or so of play on one of the pump bolts before the battery of the drill got taxed
Here are some pics of the oil, I dropped some on a white background to show clarity and the plugs 1,2, and 3 from right to left
I also managed to free up a millimeter or so of play on one of the pump bolts before the battery of the drill got taxed
Here are some pics of the oil, I dropped some on a white background to show clarity and the plugs 1,2, and 3 from right to left
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SHESAH
Active Member
Finally compression results from test with oil in cylinders. I tested cylinder 1 Pre and Post oil
Cylinder 1- IMG_2539 without oil at 240 RPM / IMG_2541 with oil at 260 RPM
Cylinder 2- IMG_2542 with oil at 260-290 RPM
Cylinder 3- IMG_2543 with oil at 260-290 RPM
I wasn't sure if reading was correct so I tried to do cylinder 3 again IMG_2544 is the result and 0 RPM
+Thinking of it, I'm almost sure I attempted to get a second reading on cylinder3 without releasing pressure from the gauge.
Cylinder 1- IMG_2539 without oil at 240 RPM / IMG_2541 with oil at 260 RPM
Cylinder 2- IMG_2542 with oil at 260-290 RPM
Cylinder 3- IMG_2543 with oil at 260-290 RPM
I wasn't sure if reading was correct so I tried to do cylinder 3 again IMG_2544 is the result and 0 RPM
+Thinking of it, I'm almost sure I attempted to get a second reading on cylinder3 without releasing pressure from the gauge.
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gazzaskirepair
Active Member
So looks like no noticeable increase with oil in chamber ?
So you could get away doing a head job but to confirm this a Leak Down test would identify which valves are leaking
As the ski hasn’t been used in 3 years and it doesn’t cost anything except labour it’s a good idea to remove jet pump to lubricate shaft splines and get a bass to start from on what condition it’s in
I am in the line of thinking you have sh1t on the valve seats hence no power under load
So you could get away doing a head job but to confirm this a Leak Down test would identify which valves are leaking
As the ski hasn’t been used in 3 years and it doesn’t cost anything except labour it’s a good idea to remove jet pump to lubricate shaft splines and get a bass to start from on what condition it’s in
I am in the line of thinking you have sh1t on the valve seats hence no power under load
SHESAH
Active Member
Man:\ I felt optimistic seeing an increase of 10-20 psi in each valve with oil test but not so much with 240 RPM.
Tomorrow I may have better luck removing bolts to get a look at the jet pump
What is a Down test? I wish I had all the tools and knowledge to rebuild everything.. At this point, to get it running for a ride or two would make due for the kids.
They are on me like you wouldn't believe, Is the boat ready!? Need help!? Is the boat ready!? lol
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
I’d say leave it together and get the jet pump off to check
get all the problems first then go forward
Confirm is it a supercharged engine ? The engine May get better compression wise once your able to to get it above the initial 4800 as it’s been standing for 3 years
I have just picked up a boat not used for about 4 years 215hp supercharged and avg 135 psi
Hours are 255 so age is just a number
get all the problems first then go forward
Confirm is it a supercharged engine ? The engine May get better compression wise once your able to to get it above the initial 4800 as it’s been standing for 3 years
I have just picked up a boat not used for about 4 years 215hp supercharged and avg 135 psi
Hours are 255 so age is just a number
SHESAH
Active Member
That is awesome to hear! My boat is a supercharged 215 as well.
Did you have the same issues as me? How many repairs were needed?
JPass
Well-Known Member
A leak down test will see if your cylinders are holding pressure. If they are not, you could be losing pressure through the valves or through the rings or the head gasket. It's fairly easy to diagnose as leaky valves would allow you to hear air leaking through the intake or exhaust.
Your plugs don't look bad although 2 have a darkened grounding post while the one does not. Kinda strange, but I wouldn't worry about it too much at the moment.
Does the oil have any fuel smell to it? The color looks good on the white Styrofoam, but it's hard to tell if it looks thinned out. Bad rings would allow fuel down into your oil pan which is why I keep asking if your oil smells like fuel.
Post some pics of the pump once you get it off. Would also like to see the splines on the end of the driveshaft as well.
It wouldn't hurt to have your battery load tested at the local auto parts store. I believe they do it for free. A weak battery can give you lower compression results as well. Best to check everything you can.
Your plugs don't look bad although 2 have a darkened grounding post while the one does not. Kinda strange, but I wouldn't worry about it too much at the moment.
Does the oil have any fuel smell to it? The color looks good on the white Styrofoam, but it's hard to tell if it looks thinned out. Bad rings would allow fuel down into your oil pan which is why I keep asking if your oil smells like fuel.
Post some pics of the pump once you get it off. Would also like to see the splines on the end of the driveshaft as well.
It wouldn't hurt to have your battery load tested at the local auto parts store. I believe they do it for free. A weak battery can give you lower compression results as well. Best to check everything you can.
Madpaddler
Member
The leak down test won't care whether your pump is still attached
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
Get the jet pump off ASAP let’s confirm it’s not causing resistance to turn the motor over
And yes get batt load tested as you should get 300RPM spinning speed during compression check
And yes get batt load tested as you should get 300RPM spinning speed during compression check
JPass
Well-Known Member
That cable on the left is your reverse cable. It's going to need to be replaced. The plastic nut that holds it in place should be replaced with an aluminum one as the plastic ones are known for leaking.
That impeller is pretty tore up. You should send it off to have it reconditioned or replace it altogether. The leading edges should be smooth, not jagged. While you're at it, you should replace the plastic wear ring as well.
How does it sound when you spin the impeller? If it's rough or sounds kinda loud, you may need to rebuild your pump as well. On the back side there's a cone with three allen head bolts holding it in place. When you finally get the venturi off, you should remove the cone to inspect the grease in there. There should be no water present behind that cone. There should not be any rust on the rear bearing either. Once you get it off, post pics.
Driveshaft splines look good. That impeller may cause some cavitation due to it's condition, but not something that would limit your RPMs, just give you a poor holeshot and reduce your top speed.
Let us know how the battery load test goes as well as the leak down test. That boat appears to have been run in salt and not properly taken care of. Everything is fixable so far, but I'd hold off on replacing anything until you get the leak down test done. No point in spending money on things yet if you have motor issues.
Welcome to boating. It's not a cheap hobby, especially when you're fixing other people's mistakes, but hopefully you can get the boat up and running soon.
That impeller is pretty tore up. You should send it off to have it reconditioned or replace it altogether. The leading edges should be smooth, not jagged. While you're at it, you should replace the plastic wear ring as well.
How does it sound when you spin the impeller? If it's rough or sounds kinda loud, you may need to rebuild your pump as well. On the back side there's a cone with three allen head bolts holding it in place. When you finally get the venturi off, you should remove the cone to inspect the grease in there. There should be no water present behind that cone. There should not be any rust on the rear bearing either. Once you get it off, post pics.
Driveshaft splines look good. That impeller may cause some cavitation due to it's condition, but not something that would limit your RPMs, just give you a poor holeshot and reduce your top speed.
Let us know how the battery load test goes as well as the leak down test. That boat appears to have been run in salt and not properly taken care of. Everything is fixable so far, but I'd hold off on replacing anything until you get the leak down test done. No point in spending money on things yet if you have motor issues.
Welcome to boating. It's not a cheap hobby, especially when you're fixing other people's mistakes, but hopefully you can get the boat up and running soon.
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