What kind of oil?????

[nswillin]

Just bought a 2000 Seadoo XP and I have no idea of what kind of oil the previous owner ran in it. It's kinda of a dark blue color. I want to use the Seadoo XP-S oil.
There is a little bit of oil in the tank right now, low enough for the low oil light to come on. Should I drain this out and put the Seadoo oil in there or can I mix it into the little bit thats in there. Also, anybody used the Amsoil Synthetic 2 stroke oil before? Is it any better or cheaper than the Seadoo XP-S?

 

[kustomkarl]

Nswillin, Here is the correct seadoo oil you should use. If the oil is kinda brownish...than it is Synthetic if it is Blueish...than it must be Mineral.
Use High quality low ASH API TC Injector oil.
Do Not use NMMA TC-W, TC-W2 or TC-W3 outboard motor oils or other ash less type 2 cycle oil. Avoid mixing different brands of API TC oil as resulting chemical reaction will cause severe engine damage. Never mix Mineral or synthetics oil together.

Never use fuel containing more than 10 % alcohol,( Methanol or Ethanol) as severe damage will occur. The minimum of 87 octane is recommended for most engines.

 

[nswillin]

Good ol' Karl, always there for ya. Thanks again man. Guess I'll get to draining the old stuff out before I put the new stuff in. :cheers:

 

[kustomkarl]

If your gonna drain the old stuff out be sure you drain out the oil injector lines and purge the injector system too so it doesn't seperate out and cause a problem. The rotory valve shaft gear chamber needs to be done too. Take your time and do a through job. if your not sure what the steps are give us a shout.

Karl

 

[nswillin]

Looks like thats what I'll have to do. I was looking in my manual and couldn't find anything about draining out the oil injector lines and purging the injector system and the rotary shaft gear. Is this something I can do easily? Thanks again.

 

[Charles Knapp]

Why not TCW-3

What could be the potential problems if using TCW-3? When I purchased my 97 GTI, TCW-3 is what the previous owner had been using. Will it make much of a difference now if I change the type of oil I use on an 11 year old engine.

 

[kustomkarl]

Looks like thats what I'll have to do. I was looking in my manual and couldn't find anything about draining out the oil injector lines and purging the injector system and the rotary shaft gear. Is this something I can do easily? Thanks again.

Well to drain out all the oil, what I do is disconnect, remove the lines and let the oil drain out of them into a container. Then re-fill the lines and purge them of air and re-install them. With the engine running Move the oil pump cable, disk to full and be sure all bubbles are purged out of the injector lines.

Karl

 

[nswillin]

I hope yall dont think I'm an idiot but I'm confused. I take the line off coming out of the oil tank? How do I purge them of air? And the part about moving the oil pump cable disk to full? Sorry I'm such an pain in the arse.

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;

After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.

Karl

 

[nswillin]

oh my god

I totally know what your talking about now Karl. Good help. I think I'm screwed though. I was looking at the cable going to the disk and the cable isnt even hooked up to it. How is this possible. Ive only had the ski for about a week now and only been able to take out once on Tues. but for only a half hour, seemed to run awesome. Was my engine not getting any oil that whole time. I hope this doesnt turn out to be a mess.

 

[kustomkarl]

Is the fuel pre-mixed?...I reread the first post that you just got it ...see if the fuel has a off color to it, like a blueish, (is that a word) tint to it. The oil pump might not be working...The manual has a test to do if your in doubt. It's better to find out now than in a week with straight gas in it. Check it out and let me know... Could you call the old owner to find out if it was oil injected or premixed?

Karl

 

[nswillin]

When I test drove it the guy said it had just a little bit of gas in it according to the fuel gauge. Little did I know the fuel gauge does not work. So when I took it home I filled it up with gas assuming it was empty but only had to pump about 6 or 7 gallons in to fill it up. I've only ran the thing maybe 30-45 min total. When I was testing the fuel baffle last night all the fuel seemed to be regular color like it wasn't pre-mixed or anything. When I test drove it the low oil light was not on and when I drove it Tues. it came on after driving it for about 20-30 min so I brought it back in. The tank had oil in it when I took it out, but it wasnt full. Probably just above the level before the light goes off.

 

[kustomkarl]

Ok not to worry...Lets assume the pump works... the injector is the best, most economical way to mix the oil and fuel. The Injector system uses a variable injector system that pumps oil at a specific rate based on RPM's, not always the same ratio. If you go to 40:1 mix you will be buying oil all the time. The consumption rate is always 40:1 at all RPMs....Lets do this, finish the change out of the oil. Remove the injector pump and check the small plastic shaft that turns the pump for damage. It is behind the pump when you remove the 2 screws that hold it on the engine. Reset the pump and shaft back in place, tighten the screws and set the injector pump on the marks. Next, check the sync with the carbs, and oil pump all cables connected. With the oil full in the lines, and the pwc ready to run on the water hose,(water off). (you might need a friend to help here)Start it up...turn on the water and push the oil injector pump to full oil. Watch to see if the injector is pumping oil. If you can't tell, shut it off and remove the injector hoses to the carbs and same process, start up the PWC again. See if the oil injector spurts out oil from the 2 small hoses. Be sure the disk,(pump lever) is fully open.

If the injector pump isn't pumping it must be bad. let me know when you get the oil all set and have done the test described above. If it doesn't pump you have 2 choices...go premix or replace the $138.00 pump.

Keep me posted.

Karl

 

[nswillin]

Well I kinda freaked out earlier when I saw that the throttle cable wasn't connected to the oil pump. Its there, just not connected to the pump lever. I'm pretty sure the oil pump does work because it has used some oil compared to the level in the tank dropping a little from when I bought it. Just to be sure I will test it though. The manual has a test where I can take the pump off and use a drill to turn the pump counterclockwise and see the oil dripping out, but I like your way better. If the pump is working then without that cable not hooked up I guess it is getting oil just not the right amount at times? BTW I talked to the previous owner and he said he never premixed the gas and always used the injector tank for oil and he had it for little over a year. He also said he's been using 2 stroke outboard oil from Wal-Mart, yikes! :ack: Anyways hopefully the oil he was using didn't do too much damage. I freaked out earlier when I saw that cable not hooked up I did another compression test just to make sure I didn't screw anything up when I ran it. 130 psi on both. Thanks for all your help Karl I'll keep ya posted after I test.:cheers:

 

[kustomkarl]

cool...maybe the cable came off while you were cleaning it..... 130 psi isn't bad at all. The compression is ok if both cylinders wear at the same rate. If it was say 130 psi and 90 psi...you'd have problems. YOUR GOOD...

The manual is a good source of information, but the drill test is a little tricky to do, so I thought it would be easier and quicker to do it the way I described....Checking the shaft and bleeding the lines is good peace of mind.
Run the correct oil and go have fun.... Let me know how it goes, and if you get stuck or unsure get back to me.:cheers:

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is a step by step to the oil pump oil lines;

After you drain the oil from the oil lines and refill them, you have to be sure there is no air in the lines when the engine starts up or it will cause the engine to seize up. You need to fill the oil lines back up with oil. I attach the empty lines back to tank and fill the tank. The oil line going to the oil injector pump attaches to a elbow fitting on allows the oil to flow to the pump. I let the oil drain into the oil line to the pump first and put a small cup at the end of the oil line, to catch the oil coming out of the end of full line. Attach the full oil line to the elbow on the oil pump. There is a bleeder screw on the pump. Lay a rag under the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw till the pump has oil coming out. Tighten the bleeder screw. Be sure the oil is full in the small 2 lines also. Let the oil seep out the ends of the small lines to fill the lines as best as you can. Connect the 2 small oil lines from the pump to the carburetors. Where the cable is connected is a Disk,(pump lever) that the cable is attached to. Check that the mark on the pump aligns with the mark on the disk. Apply the throttle with the ENGINE OFF and check that the cable is in sync with the oil injector cable. They should move open and close at the same time. To bleed the 2 small lines and get the bubbles out, start the engine, on the water hose. DO NOT APPLY THROTTLE. Let the engine IDLE. Turn the Disk,( pump lever) that the oil injector cable is attached to, to full open so the air bubbles travel to the carburetors and leave no bubbles in the line. Don’t run the seadoo for more than a couple minutes on the hose.
For the Rotary Valve Gear Shaft, attach the hose on the tank and allow the oil to fill the hose and attach it to the case. Recheck all the oil lines and be sure they aren't leaking any oil. If you still have any questions give us a shout.

Karl

You could use a shop vac to remove(suck) the oil from the Rotary Valve Chamber.
Little tidbit I just remembered to add...
Karl

 

[nswillin]

Thanks Karl you da man!:hurray:

 

[nswillin]

Quick question. My end of the cable going to my oil pump is broke off. I dunno if I did this or if it was like that when I bought it, but it looks like I gottta replace the whole throttle cable assembly. I guess it would destroy my engine if I left it unhooked right, not enough oil? If so, can I leave it unhooked and run Pre-mix until I get a new cable or is that too much oil?

 

[kustomkarl]

You can't just leave it off. You'll have to get a block off plate kit, for the oil pump and block off the 2 lines to the carburetor. I would just replace the small cable to the injector. I beleive it is just a small cable and not the whole throttle cable assy.

Karl

 

[nswillin]

Well crap. I cant find anything about it being one small cable, I wish it were but it looks like I gotta replace the whole frikn assembly.

 

[kustomkarl]

I'll check it out...be right back...

 

[kustomkarl]

I guess it is one cable. I have in the past replaced the section with a new stainless steel cable, and re-braised the ends from the old one to the new one. It lasted for 3 years...I got the cable section from a local hardware store and slipped it in the old casing from the old cable. Braised the ends and all done..cost me like $4.00. I used the old cable to have it the same length.
Almost forgot here is the Part # 277 000 912 Try e-bay also
Karl

 

[nswillin]

Great idea. I tried using a wire stop but thw cable was too short too pull the disk up. So you just joined the old and new cable? Could I MIG weld the too cables together?

 

[kustomkarl]

You have to heat the ends up and the old "ball" on the end comes off. Measure the cable to the exact length. Then slide the cable into the old cable cover. Attach the end, one at a time with heat and either lead of brass.
You can't use a MIG welder because you have to re-braze the ends back on. and not melt the ends. Use a little heat at a time.

 

[kustomkarl]

The cable comes apart at the junction by prying the top cover ...be careful not to break the plastic and pay attention as to how it came apart.