A couple weeks ago I purchased a 98 xp limited..for the price I didn't think I should pass it up. Anyways I put it on the river today since it was 60 degrees here near Pittsburgh and couldn't get it started. The other day in the garage it started fine. So I emptied the fuel filter and cranked it a few more times and still had an empty fuel filter. When I put the key on it it sounds like it activated the fuel pump so I'm not sure if the pump isn't working to full capacity? I also see it has grey fuel lines and I've heard all about that situation. Just trying to get some ideas. Is there a way to test the pump? I had a 97xp a few years ago and never seemed to have any of these problems with it so I'm somewhat new to repair on these machines. ALSO I read somewhere that these engines have a problem with water getting inside the crankcase? Any info on this model ski would be appreciated greatly.
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What did I get myself into?
- Thread starter jreitter
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MacAddict
Active Member
I have owned for 5+ years, have completely rebuilt top to bottom and heavily modified 99XPL and 01 XP951, so I know the engine well. The motor you hear with the key is the automatic bilge in the back. Fuel pump is vacuum driven off the crank case, not electric. If the motor had not been started IN WATER for any length of time, or the fuel had sat for any length of time, the grey temp fuel lines have likely gooped the entire carb system. See attached picture.
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I guarantee you need to get rid of all the bad fuel, then get spools of AC DELCO PCV fuel line in 1/4" and 5/16" and replace what's there. Then pull the carbs and rebuild with OEM Mikuni kits only, making sure to use the stick spring that's in the carbs now, and don't use what's in the kits. The BNi carbs on that ski require a specific spring, so it's best to use what's there. Then be sure to do a pop off pressure test on carbs before reinstalling. Should be 19-21psi stock.
When you bought this ski, did you do a compression test with a GOOD tester? Should be 135psi each hole. A compression test is critical with any 2stroke engine, and tells you alot about the health of the engine.
And FWIW a jetski on the trailer is a completely different animal in the water under load, even at the dock. Never ever buy a ski without a water test unless you know exactly what you are getting into...
The first thing you'll want to do is check compression. A 951 stock compression is 135 psi per cylinder. If compression is low it can run great on the trailer but not start in the water one there is some resistance.
If compression checks out ok, you'll want to replace fuel lines, clean or replace the fuel selector, and rebuild the carbs before riding the ski.
If compression checks out ok, you'll want to replace fuel lines, clean or replace the fuel selector, and rebuild the carbs before riding the ski.
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I appreciate the feedback. As it was tied off to the dock I pulled the plugs and sprayed a small amount of starting fluid in each cylinder and was able to get it started BUt it seemed once it used that starting fluid it started to bog and eventually stopped taking fuel clearly since the fuel filter was still empty. I fully intend on changing the fuel lines and doing the carb. I'm not sure what the compression is but it didn't seem to have a problem cranking while in the water or running for the brief time I had it started.
Do you guys know anything about these type of engines attracting water? I heard about a block off plate of some sort but can't remember for the life of me where I read it.
Do you guys know anything about these type of engines attracting water? I heard about a block off plate of some sort but can't remember for the life of me where I read it.
MacAddict
Active Member
Pull and fully clean/blow out the fuel selector as the other poster indicated. Can almost guarantee is clogged. Made from the crap poured magnesium metal that is prone to corrosion and seizing. One of the leading causes of lean seizure in these skis....
Honestly the ability to crank has almost nothing to do with compression, other than a trained ear being able to hear if the compression is low while cranking, but that could also indicate a weak battery... .get a good tester. Don't trust the harbor freight crap.
The way the carbs are set up under the big tuned pipe, they are known for ingesting water, yes. But there was a better air intake system in later years that includes square tubes to direct the water down to the carbs, that was part of a bulletin I believe. The other KEY thing is to make sure the weatherstripping seal UNDER the white tray all the way around is solid. I believe on the 98's there is also air intake holes up front near the hinge. I highly suggest you move those to where the hood latches down like later models and glass in the front holes to prevent more water from entering the hull.
I jumped the gun and went premix with my skis before I really knew anything. Oil pumps rarely, if ever, fail. Its the small lines that go from the oil pump to the carbs that get old, brittle, crack and leak oil, thus robbing the engine of lubrication. Replace these lines with new Tigon lines from the oil pump to back under the carbs, run a good full synthetic API-TC oil and you will likely never have any problems. Premix is a pain in the ass filling up on the water, and it uses a substantial amount more oil. I went back to oil injection on all 4 of my skis from 2 manufacturers....
I'm not sure what the you're referring to as the "fuel selector?" I don't have a manual so if you can describe it I'll work on that piece.
I plan to do a compression test tomorrow and I will post results. I have a several years building small block car engines but as you guys know these are totally different animals.
You're correct. There's what looks like air intake holes at the front of the hood where the jingle is at. I'll be sure to close those in before spring comes around.
My 97 xp was being mixed directly on oil and fuel. It was difficult because you had to be sure not to mix to much and foul plugs. This one however is still hooked up with the oil pump so I think I'll be keeping it that way even though it makes me nervous
I plan to do a compression test tomorrow and I will post results. I have a several years building small block car engines but as you guys know these are totally different animals.
You're correct. There's what looks like air intake holes at the front of the hood where the jingle is at. I'll be sure to close those in before spring comes around.
My 97 xp was being mixed directly on oil and fuel. It was difficult because you had to be sure not to mix to much and foul plugs. This one however is still hooked up with the oil pump so I think I'll be keeping it that way even though it makes me nervous
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
yes, the diaper & the flaps.
I guess they help, they certainly can't hurt.
I guess they help, they certainly can't hurt.
snikwad003
Well-Known Member
Your ski doesn't have an electric fuel pump, that is probably you're rave solenoid when you hit the key. If you have a lean issue due to clogged carbs from gray lines and you keep trying to ride it you will smoke your motor
It's the electric bilge pump. All the 1998+ XP's do it.
Thanks for all the information on improving this ski.
I did a compression test this afternoon and both cylinders pumped 120
Also I was looking at the fuel selector and it looks like no matter what I do as far as maintenance that I'll have to pull the top coolant pipe or exhaust pipe off it? That pipe seems to be in the way of everything. Also the fuse box seems to be blocking the ability to get to the selector. Am I right or is there a better way?
I did a compression test this afternoon and both cylinders pumped 120
Also I was looking at the fuel selector and it looks like no matter what I do as far as maintenance that I'll have to pull the top coolant pipe or exhaust pipe off it? That pipe seems to be in the way of everything. Also the fuse box seems to be blocking the ability to get to the selector. Am I right or is there a better way?
MacAddict
Active Member
If that was a decent compression tester, then you need a new top end, or will in the very near future
No.. exhaust pipe doesn't need to come off... you can get the carbs out and everything with pipe on. Just takes some finagling... have to take the air box off first, where you pull the oil reservoir up and set out of the way, then there is a clip to unlatch the airbox, then it slides forward twisting up and out (once the oil tank is out of the way)
To get to the fuel selector, you only need to un-bolt the front of the seat where it attaches to the hull on the front, then tilt the seat up, twist out of th way and gain access to the top of the fuel tank under the big rubber plug covering the hole. you will also need to do this to get at the fuel lines
That's the computer with fuses built in, yes, but no you don't need to take out if you use the method listed above....
All good answers by MacAddict.
If the reading are dead on at 120 the the top end is probably fine. There have been a lot of 951's here that still turn max rpm and run fin at 120. Although as Mac said it is getting on the lower side.
Any idea of the hours on the ski?
If the reading are dead on at 120 the the top end is probably fine. There have been a lot of 951's here that still turn max rpm and run fin at 120. Although as Mac said it is getting on the lower side.
Any idea of the hours on the ski?
MacAddict
Active Member
:cheers: Thanks man! I try not to shovel it too deep....
MacAddict
Active Member
I didn't measure out exactly how much of each, but I know others have documented footage.... I just bought a spool of 5/16 and 1/4" ACDelco PCV fuel line off Amazon.... then grabbed bags of SS worm clamps from plumbing dept. at HomeDepot
Bigredram87
Active Member
I always buy 25 feet and works out nice , make sure to clean or replace internal mikuni filters and fuel selector while your at it
Bigredram87
Active Member
Good time to service raves also
MacAddict
Active Member
Take a very small flat screwdriver and pry out the small center circle fitting and there's a Philips behind that. Take the Philips out, pull the knob off and access the plastic nut holding it on.... might need to use spray on penetrating oil, as it will likely be coroded... be careful as this plastic nut is thin and prone to snapping
I took all the top lines off so far. On the selector side they aren't what I would call gummed up but there definitely wasn't much of an opening on the inside. I cleaned the selector out and getting ready to replace the top fuel lines or all the 5/16 diameter ones today. Looks like I have a bit more work to get the 1/4 inch lines off that run underneath to the carb
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