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Wear Ring problem ???

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flip6

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Just fitted a new wear ring to my xp 951 because the old one was a bit chewed out.

The trailing edge of the impellor was straightened at the same time.

Now it's all back together the impellor seems to be tight in some places and you can see light in other areas.

Waiting for parts before i get the ski wet so don;t no if it will be better.

My local mechanic reckons the pump body can get out of round/warped by a lots of wave jumping ?

Is this true ?
Should the clearance be the same all round the impellor ?
Is it normal to need a new pump housing when they aren't obviously damaged ?

I was expecting practically no light to be visible through the pump with a new wear ring. Is this what i should be expect ?

Thanks

Phil
P.S - not sure about the new forum structure ay
 
Wear Ring Clearance

I guess it's possible that your pump could be out of round, but I doubt it. I would check the clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. Using a feeler guage check to see that there is no more than 0.44" clearance between the impeller and the wear ring. If there is no more than 0.44" and the impeller is not touching the wear ring you should be good to go.

If this is not the case let us know, because it could be other things, drive shaft, bearings, etc.

Lou
 
If it were 0.44, he would be cavitating (churning) water into air.
We recomend .008 minimum clearance, and .040 max.

I have seen houseings corrode and the houseing crud shrivel the wear ring
and lock the impeller.
 
Thanks guys.

Mines a plastic housing so luckily no corrosion issues.

Not sure how driveshaft can be contributing because even off the ski (withouit driveshaft connected) clearances are not even.

Pump bearings seem good and pump oil was not milky.

I checked the clearances with the old ring during a recent engine rebuild and they were within the seadoo manual tolerance.

I was a bit dissapointed with the performance after the rebuild although engine max revs were 71000.

Managed to have a go on the same ski and was amazed how much faster it was - top speed and hole shot. About 8mph faster than mine. Mine struggles to get past an indicated 50mph even thought the revs are high enough.

I'll wait till parts arrive and give the ski a go in the water. If it's no better i'll strip the pump and measure the clearances and find out if the impeller or the housing are out of round.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Local seadoo agent/mechanic just straightened the trailing edge - maybe last half inch of two swirls were a bit bent. I watched him do it and i think he did a good job.

no the wear ring is not oem but "says" is to oem spec. Was supplied by bay area powersports from the U.S who seem to be a reputable supplier from the dealings i've had with them
 
Yeah..uh huh.

The aftermarket wear rings plain SUCK. Tolerances are just not perfect like OEM.

If you can turn the PTO by hand when its together...even if its hard...the engine should turn over and start, and it will wear away where its too tight. that is if you stay with what you got.

Sounds like you are particular about quality work/parts...I'd suggest an OEM ring.

The only other thing it can be is the prop is not perfect...but unless your guy welded the edge and ground it wrong..its not really possible.
 
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never seen the TRAILING EDGE being the problem without leading edge being f'd up
did he fix something on the front edge and then ..try to adjust?
just wondering
something isnt right here

i keep leaning to the prop "fix"


flip6 said:
Local seadoo agent/mechanic just straightened the trailing edge - maybe last half inch of two swirls were a bit bent. I watched him do it and i think he did a good job.

no the wear ring is not oem but "says" is to oem spec. Was supplied by bay area powersports from the U.S who seem to be a reputable supplier from the dealings i've had with them
Click to expand...
 
My dealer ran out of OEM wear rings once and against my better judgement, I bought an aftermarket one. I had the same problem that you're experiencing. You can't beat the quality of OEM parts. With a caliper, measure the thickness of the wear ring in several places. You will see what I mean.

Chester
 
I did measure the wear ring and it seemed pretty good.
still waiting for parts so i can get the ski in the water - i suppose that's the only test that counts.

Leading edge of impeller wasn't that bad and no welding.

I keep getting tempted to get an aftermarket impeller and will if my impeller is out of round. It must be, because one swirl of the impeller can be tight on one part of the wear ring and another swirl can have clearance on the same area so different swirls different clearances.

It's almost like one or more of the swirls has been seriously bent at some time and perhaps straightened badly. Just can't really see that happening in the real world.

Just want the ski in the water right now - Winter is round the corner so don't want to be waiting for parts

Cheers,

Phil
 
Swirl?

I'm thinking that a swirl is what we call a blade. I really don't think that your local mechanic will get the impeller back to factory specs. by welding and bending without the proper jig. I would go ahead and get a new prop., I have a factory prop. on mine, but I have a friend who has a solas (which works well also).

Send the impeller you are using and have it rebuilt, and keep it for a spare. I am using the term prop. and impeller to mean the same thing. I agree that an OEM wear ring works best, but you could replace it in the off season. My wear ring is from Atlantic Jet Sports, and is a non OEM, which works well but it's a crap shoot, I got lucky.

Here is another thought, when you had the wear ring replaced, are you sure that all of the residue from the old wear ring was cleaned from the housing before the new one was installed into the pump housing.

Lou
 
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Not to hijack but where did you get the impeller removal tool? Like is there a way to rent or if am I stuck buying it for 20 bucks for probably a one time deal to replace my wear ring also on my xp. Also do I have to run brm synthetic gear lube or any other brand suffice? One last question but anything else I should do or repair while I have the pump out. I have never removed a jet ski pump so cross my fingers but I have some mechanical know how.
 
Just buy the tool...it works on 80% of all props.

Amsoil has marine gear oil now...Much cheaper than seadoos.
 
X2. any marine synthetic grease 90w works to pre-lub the bearings, then use Jetpump oil to fill as per Manual. : http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadoopwcjetpumpoilsynthetic293600011.aspx. I never bought the tool, just bent
an old driveshft 90* on prop end. If more leverage is needed on a really tough
one, slide a pipe over it. I have not broke it yet, but some of my Buds who bought
a tool have broken their tool. If you have a bent shaft lying around, give it some
heat and it will bend! Look in the How-to section of this forum for R & R jetpump.
 
Impeller Removal

I bought an impeller removal tool, I think it was 10 or 12.00, so I would have it the next time. However if you don't want to buy one and if you know a car mechanic you might be able to borrow one. I work at a car dealership and the Techs use this same tool on GM Transmissions (I think).

I use Mobil 1, Synthetic Gear Lube, 75w90 LS. It costs about 10.00 a quart and should last 4-5 seasons (I change my oil twice a season).

Lou
 
flip6 said:
I keep getting tempted to get an aftermarket impeller and will if my impeller is out of round. It must be, because one swirl of the impeller can be tight on one part of the wear ring and another swirl can have clearance on the same area so different swirls different clearances.

Phil
Click to expand...

If its "outtaround", it''ll hit the wearing in a 360* turn, not in particular spots.
 
Ok - parts arrived - took ski for a blast in the rain to get flattest water.

with new wear ring no real improvement. Ski revs to about 7k and top speed indicated is 55mph - same as before and that's with a fresh engine.

Checked, raves, water regulator, spark plugs - all good. Will check compression when engine is cold.

So when i give her full throttle from stationary engine revs to 6k almost straight away and then ski accelerates from say 10mph - when ski is up to speed the revs increase from 6k to 7k.

Is this normal ?

New engine - old one was really stuffed - half the ball bearings from the main bearings were missing - crank end seals obliterated. New crank, pistons, raves.

Now after new engine and new wear ring the ski is not a whole lot better hole shot or top end. Missing something somewhere. Had a ride on an identical ski to mine and it was a whole lot faster acceleration and top speed. Owner had no idea about it so could have had engine mods or aftermarket prop.

Thinking perhaps prop or timing or compression once i check it.

If i have this right - with 7000 rpm and a decent pump these ski's should do at least 60mph ? Checked speedo with gps last year and it's about right.

Any suggestions ?


This is my first ski so no idea if my standard ski is right or not

Cheers

Phil
 
being a 951, on the pump, there should be a pump seal, which is installed onto the outer edge of the housing. Did you remember that?
 
does the pump seal go between the pump unit and the hull ? Large black seal with multiple lips, same diameter as the pump ish ?

Because if that's the one - i know it's there because i found it under the ski after my first assembly and had to pull the pump off to "reinstall" it. Oops !

Compression is 135psi on both cylinders. I know 150psi is the aim but this is 5 tanks of gas after a rebore and new pistons/rings.

Cheers,

Phil
 
I read a lot of comments about cavitiation - sounds a bit like a misfire ? My ski is sweat as - i never get any indication that pump is cavitating
 
yup, that the pump seal...lol

If its "misfire" sounding, try new plugs, clip the plug wires, doublecheck the raves (had 1 of mine crap out, after 4hrs use), make sure the line to the solenoid, from down under the motor is connected, rave tubes are clear...
 
Hi there i was wonder does anyone know about sbt? are their rave valve any good? also i orederd some impellers from them also has any one had a bad outcome from their impellers?
 
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