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Water draining from Shaft 2013 260 RXT
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devonte007
Active Member
can you fix it without removing the drive shaft? That depends on exactly what is wrong. There are several places that water could be leaking.
Since this is such a new ski, I would first inspect the rubber bellows. Make sure it is completely intact and flexible. Next check the clamp connections on each end of the bellows, are they water tight?
If all good there, you next need to check the seal between the carbon ring and stainless steel ring. Does the carbon seal look good, any uneven wear? Is the stainless steel ring seated correctly on the c-clip and are the rubber o-rings on the inside doing their job at keeping water out? Is there good pressure between the bellows and the stainless steel ring?
If all looks good, you need to figure out were exactly the water is coming in on the assembly. Its really a simple setup. If any of the parts are bad and need replacement you will need to remove the drive shaft.
Since this is such a new ski, I would first inspect the rubber bellows. Make sure it is completely intact and flexible. Next check the clamp connections on each end of the bellows, are they water tight?
If all good there, you next need to check the seal between the carbon ring and stainless steel ring. Does the carbon seal look good, any uneven wear? Is the stainless steel ring seated correctly on the c-clip and are the rubber o-rings on the inside doing their job at keeping water out? Is there good pressure between the bellows and the stainless steel ring?
If all looks good, you need to figure out were exactly the water is coming in on the assembly. Its really a simple setup. If any of the parts are bad and need replacement you will need to remove the drive shaft.
Thanks for the Info I just checked both clamps on the bellows the front one closest to Engine is loose as a goose. Do you know if there is a tolerance on how tight it should be? I assume the clamp should not be spinning around as it cant seal the boot this way < I'm hoping this is the problem .
devonte007
Active Member
There is not really a torque spec for this, as I believe it is simply a cheap worm clamp. Just make sure it is good and snug then test it out on the water.
sounds like you found your problem though.
sounds like you found your problem though.
Tighten it down like you would a radiator hose clamp. Right enough to do the job but not slice through the hose.
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Hi I purchased new Clamp because when I tightened the existing clamp didn't stop turning to get tight , figured striped clamp Purchased new clamp and when I try and tighten this one same thing happens >I notice the clamp is ridding off the Bellows groove where the clamp should sit in on one side as I tighten it , seems to slipp off the Top of the Carbon Ring , This is why its not getting tight if you keep going it will slide off bellows clamp groove all together Any Suggestions why this could happen,, Is the Carbon Ring out of position , It looks straight to me,, any help appreciated thanks Artie
devonte007
Active Member
Are you sure that the rubber bellows is fully seated on the carbon ring? Is the hose clamp you are using too wide to sit on the carbon ring flange?
See picture below:
There should be a nice wide flange and a small raised notch for the clamp to seat on so that it does not slip off when you tighten the clamp. I would take the bellows off your carbon ring and carefully inspect it for damage, it should look like the picture above. The bellows kind of acts like a spring and puts force on carbon ring to keep it pressed tightly against the stainless steel ring. This pressure alone should be enough to keep it from slipping off the carbon ring backwards as you tighten the clamp. It should be so tight that it is difficult to pull back with your hands.
Possible that the rubber bellows needs replacement or something else is wrong. That whole assembly should be very tight.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?71248-How-To-carbon-seal-service-and-replacement
Feel free to post some pics of your parts, it might help us understand the problem better.
See picture below:
There should be a nice wide flange and a small raised notch for the clamp to seat on so that it does not slip off when you tighten the clamp. I would take the bellows off your carbon ring and carefully inspect it for damage, it should look like the picture above. The bellows kind of acts like a spring and puts force on carbon ring to keep it pressed tightly against the stainless steel ring. This pressure alone should be enough to keep it from slipping off the carbon ring backwards as you tighten the clamp. It should be so tight that it is difficult to pull back with your hands.
Possible that the rubber bellows needs replacement or something else is wrong. That whole assembly should be very tight.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?71248-How-To-carbon-seal-service-and-replacement
Feel free to post some pics of your parts, it might help us understand the problem better.
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WOW What a BI--tch to get too, has anyone had to move teh carbon ring back into position to end of boot , any tricks anyone can share its sitting 1/4- 1/2 " back and I need to pull it flush to front s/s Ring . Very poor Location for something so simple if only had more access !
devonte007
Active Member
I have never met a boat that was easy to work on, not sure they even exist....
Not sure that I understand your latest issue. The rubber bellows should easily keep all the parts under compression if the stainless steel ring and drive shaft are in the correct position. If you have a gap between the carbon ring and stainless steel ring then something is out of aliment or not right.
Given the information there is not much help I can provide other than closely inspect everything and make sure it is assembled correctly and parts are viable.
It may help if you post some pictures of your problem.
Not sure that I understand your latest issue. The rubber bellows should easily keep all the parts under compression if the stainless steel ring and drive shaft are in the correct position. If you have a gap between the carbon ring and stainless steel ring then something is out of aliment or not right.
Given the information there is not much help I can provide other than closely inspect everything and make sure it is assembled correctly and parts are viable.
It may help if you post some pictures of your problem.
thanks for your input ,,I managed to pull the carbon ring foward to edged of Bellows and Clamp now secured it , Clamp is Snug and Carbon Ring does not move , did not want to tighten clamp any more feared it could break, Filled Hull with Water No Leaks , lowered in water ran Engine No leaks , going to Silicone clamp screw so won't loosen up , taking for ride latter will keep checking for leaks with this REAL STUPID Design .
It is a "unique" design, but it works well and is used in many other applications. There are skis they probably have a million Revolutions on their ceramic seal and they have never been replaced..
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jimmaki
Active Member
I edited my post. I don't normally as it gets funny. But in this case my typo took away from the intent.
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jimmaki
Active Member
LOL ... Thought maybe I was missing out on some fantastic power upgrade tips.
It's only a matter of time before we start seeing turbine engines turning these pumps in consumer boats rev'ing pumps up in the 10s of k's.. I didn't personally have anything to do with the program when I was at Lockheed Martin but the Navy's 378' 4,000 ton littoral (shallow water) combat ship Freedom can do almost 60MPH on quad jet pumps driven by turbines.
devonte007
Active Member
The carbon seal system is actually an innovative well proven and widely used method for sealing boats with inboard/drive shafts.
Most of your newer ski boats and such now use this type of system to seal drive shafts rather than the old way which used stuffing boxes. These systems also usually include some type of water cooling nipple on the carbon ring so that the boat can be run out of the water. Seadoo does not include this feature.
Most of your newer ski boats and such now use this type of system to seal drive shafts rather than the old way which used stuffing boxes. These systems also usually include some type of water cooling nipple on the carbon ring so that the boat can be run out of the water. Seadoo does not include this feature.
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