Hey there. Newbie here. I have a 1996 Seadoo GTX that I have just purchased. When I first purchased the ski it seemed to have a dead battery. Bought a new battery and when I turn it over it sounds like the starter engages but does not turn over. I cleaned all the connections and ran another ground wire and still the same thing. Now here's the kicker. When I take out the spark plugs it turns over fast. Put the plugs back in and " click , click " no turnover. Pull the plugs turns over. I don't get it!!! What could be causing this? Please help.
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Turning over without plugs
- Thread starter Ralphk1
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Measure the voltage at both the battery and starter while briefly cranking, or try a larger known good battery. Don't connect the ski to a running vehicle, it will likely damage sensitive electrical components such as the MPEM, in the ski.
Yep and yep.
The starter being lowest componet in ski, probly has let some water get in there and has eventually gummed it up, and worn the two brushes. A kit is about $25 on eBay. If you hold the neg cable while cranking and it gets hot, most likely the wire at connection lugs are corroded. I've cut many lugs and soldered and marine heat shrank many cables over the years.
Keep your new battery tendered and always above 12.6v. Buy a tender, and a volt meter, and a pop-off tester, and a Metric tool set.
I recommend you change out the oil filter, and oil with BRP Synthetic oil, pull the rv cover with carb on it "as a unit",put the assy on your bench, the replace the two small oil lines from the oil pump to the 2 cover spigot tubes, flow test the oil pump and prime the lines, D/L a shop manual and read it, do an RV cover spec check (it should be 0.012") replace or machine if needed. Use new 0-ring.
ALL THIS before you ride it, besides the cleaning of the entire fuel system & carb rebuilding.
Then you will know what you have and respect this family gas sipper, for years.
I also recommend a ball valve in the large oil line down by battery, that goes to the RV lower cavity nipple.This is very handy when you store your ski, the oil pressure from the elevated tank does not push on the two center crank seals.
Keep grease on all the cables, its our friend and guards from corrosiveness & sticking.
Dielectrical grease is also paramount on all electrical connectors, fuses & holders.
Always gas up after riding, as the air can oxodateand ruin your fuel. Use Stabile if storeing more than two weeks, or over winter.
Check your water filter/separator periodically, dump it out to see if you bought water or contaminates. Keep grease on thesquare o-ring.
Put a glass marine fuel filter in the return line after the carb nipple. Once gas enters the circulatory system, it cycles thru the fuel valve, separator/filter, carbs, the returns to the fuel bafel chamber, them when gas is used, more enters in from the bafel lower screen/filter.
youtube does have merit.
Keep your new battery tendered and always above 12.6v. Buy a tender, and a volt meter, and a pop-off tester, and a Metric tool set.
I recommend you change out the oil filter, and oil with BRP Synthetic oil, pull the rv cover with carb on it "as a unit",put the assy on your bench, the replace the two small oil lines from the oil pump to the 2 cover spigot tubes, flow test the oil pump and prime the lines, D/L a shop manual and read it, do an RV cover spec check (it should be 0.012") replace or machine if needed. Use new 0-ring.
ALL THIS before you ride it, besides the cleaning of the entire fuel system & carb rebuilding.
Then you will know what you have and respect this family gas sipper, for years.
I also recommend a ball valve in the large oil line down by battery, that goes to the RV lower cavity nipple.This is very handy when you store your ski, the oil pressure from the elevated tank does not push on the two center crank seals.
Keep grease on all the cables, its our friend and guards from corrosiveness & sticking.
Dielectrical grease is also paramount on all electrical connectors, fuses & holders.
Always gas up after riding, as the air can oxodateand ruin your fuel. Use Stabile if storeing more than two weeks, or over winter.
Check your water filter/separator periodically, dump it out to see if you bought water or contaminates. Keep grease on thesquare o-ring.
Put a glass marine fuel filter in the return line after the carb nipple. Once gas enters the circulatory system, it cycles thru the fuel valve, separator/filter, carbs, the returns to the fuel bafel chamber, them when gas is used, more enters in from the bafel lower screen/filter.
youtube does have merit.
dannyual767
Member
The first thing to do is make sure that the new battery is fully, 100% charged. These 787 engines require a top notch, strong, 100% charged battery to turn over and start. If you have charged it fully and it is still not turning over the engine with the plugs in, then definitely follow the good advice given in the previous posts!
Put a big rag over it and hurry. Get it all out, but don't overheat the Starter doing it. (20 sec intervalls, with 60 sec in-between cranking).
The previous owner probly used substitute brand oil and now that center crank seal is warped. If you follow post #5, it may heal.
The previous owner probly used substitute brand oil and now that center crank seal is warped. If you follow post #5, it may heal.
bigJake
Well-Known Member
Actually, doesn't just a 10mm wrench, and a 10 and 12mm socket and 2 hex keys pretty much dismantle an entire seadoo ski?
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
Actually, doesn't just a 10mm wrench, and a 10 and 12mm socket and 2 hex keys pretty much dismantle an entire seadoo ski?
Think you need like a 17 to get the pump off...
Crofoot50
New Member
Actually, doesn't just a 10mm wrench, and a 10 and 12mm socket and 2 hex keys pretty much dismantle an entire seadoo ski?
Yes IF ............ The guy with wrenches knows his way around a ski
I consider myself a good tech ( 18yrs with BMW and Nissan) I am now comfortable with the help of Lou , Doc , Nick , Squirl, Racer etc etc. this is by far the best forum when help is needed. I am on Sleds , Atv , dirt bikes , this site has been more help then all the others combined. Dont get me wrong I apprec and enjoy the other forums but this one is tops
dannyual767
Member
I'm very happy to hear that you got it running!
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Actually, doesn't just a 10mm wrench, and a 10 and 12mm socket and 2 hex keys pretty much dismantle an entire seadoo ski?
So do a pneumatic jack hammer and a crowbar, would be amazed!
Haven't done everything else yet but plan on it maybe this weekend. Like to take them out at least once before seasons over and make sure they're tip top while the weather is still good. I did clean all the Raves though. They were completely filthy with a ton of build up. Now clean as a whistle. As far as the manual? I will read cover to cover. Hope both the 96 and 97 run as killer as my 96 SLT Polaris. I tell you one thing they sure are WAY more of a pain in the a•• to work on. Tons of room and everything easy to get to on the Polaris that's for sure. I'll keep you posted. Wish me luck.
Crank shaft oil seal is bad. Pretty common failure for 2-strokes. It requires pulling the engine and in MOST cases a new crank. So,,, most never replace the seal. The thing to do is, get the oil out by cranking as you are doing already. Make sure there is oil in the tank. Install good spark plugs and it will fire up. If it sits a week or so a small amount of oil will "seep" past the seal and be no big deal. If it sits for a month, you will flood the cylinders just like it is now.
Solution,,, Get a shut off valve and install it in the oil feed line. Turn it off whenever the ski sits. I STRONGLY suggest you hang your lanyard on the valve so that you NEVER forget to turn the oil on and destroy your engine...
Like I said, very common issue and really not a big deal.
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